Changing the dash circuit card 65 Riv

[alini]

My dash light problem has been narrowed down to the circuit card behind the dash.  Its a basic repair,  remove all the bulbs, disconnect the speedo and wiring harness and a few 5/16s screws and it falls off.  Just trying to figure out whats gonna be easier.  Removing the dash pad and going at it from the top and through the holes in the dash on the bottom, or remove the gauge cluster and do it on the bench. 

 

How would you do it, or have done it???

[KongaMan]

If you're looking to remove the card, it's not clear that you can pull it out from the top.  You may have no choice but to pull the whole cluster.  In any event, that would likely make reassembly much easier.

 

If you were thinking about repairing it in place, good luck with that.

[alini]

its not repairable, the different layers are all seperated and peeling.  So Im hoping OPGI has one in stock and I can get it fairly quickly...they seem to be the only source I have found so far

[KongaMan]

Do you mean the board itself is delaminating or that the traces are coming off?  Either might be fixable.  You can buy conductive paint that's suitable for patching a broken trace (or just solder a jumper between the two ends of the broken circuit).  If the board is coming apart, a little resin/thin epoxy might fix that.

 

There isn't much to these boards, and -- from your earlier description -- it sounds like the problem may be at a single point.  You might as well have a go at repairing it.

 

Of course, all this presumes that you did try cleaning and reseating the connector, making sure all the bulbs were fully seated, etc.  There are several things you can test that might be more deterministic than a visual evaluation.

Edited October 7, 2016 by KongaMan (see edit history)

[RivNut]

If there are broken places in the circuit board, try a rear window defogger repair kit.

 

If you found one on OPGI, chances are you can find it somewhere else cheaper. Just keep looking. 

[KongaMan]

A good rear window defogger kit has resistance paint; it's how the defogger works.  While it may not matter much on a short run (like repairing a broken trace), the better stuff is purely conductive paint.  There will be no voltage drop across the patch, and it won't generate any heat.

 

You can buy "pens" made just for this purpose that are filled with conductive epoxy (~$15).  Draw the new line, wait for the epoxy to cure, and Bob's yer uncle.  You can also buy conductive paint (e.g. for shielding guitar control cavities) if you'd rather go that route.

Edited October 7, 2016 by KongaMan (see edit history)

[alini]

Due to the space behind the dash I dont see how I can get a pen in there to do the repair without pulling the gauge module.  Back to my original question though, Im thinking if I remove the top dash and unsecure the module I can slide it forward and reach everything from the top and not have to disconnect the various switches mounted to the module.

[KongaMan]

I dunno.  Access from the top may also be restricted by the windshield.  You may not be able to simultaneously reach the board and see what you're doing.  I understand that you don't want to to any extra work (and I concur; lazy is good), but it seems that if you're already going through the process off removing the screws and clips that hold the cluster in place, you're not that far away from yanking it off completely.  IIRC, the biggest PITA is putting the AC duct back on the vent.

 

As an alternative, you may be able to slide the panel forward a bit and pull the board from above.  Even if you can do that, you still have to screw the board back on the panel when you're done.  Can you reach those screws from above/below?

 

No matter what route you take, repairing the board will be easier on your bench.  For one thing, it's not clear that you can turn the board so it's flat when it in the car.  Even if you can identify the bad trace/connection working in that confined space, you're still subject to the law of gravity.  That is, the repair paint may flow downhill (i.e. somewhere you don't want it to be) if you put it on a tilted surface.

 

One other thing: whatever you decide to do, disconnect your battery before you start.

[RIVNIK]

I just want to know where "and Bob's yer uncle" came from! That's a new one on me, and I'm usin' it!

[alini]

I got the new card today in the mail and went to tackle the job. Im two hours in and at a point I can reassemble.   The dash was a bitch.  I tried getting thru the top, I could have gotten it unscrewed but then I realized the clips for the gas gauge connection are not easily doable with it installed.  The card slides underneath the ears so you need to be able to slide the card around.  I felt it better to get it on the bench and do it there as to not break something or tear the new card.  So here is what I did so far

 

Removed the top dash, unsecured the radio and the dash switch panel (they layover the dash panel so they need to be removed)

Dropped the steering column to the lowest point on the studs, so its still supported but very loose in its mount.

remove the upper chrome trim from the dash surround (its clipped in)

Remove the 5 screws that are now accessible

Remove the 4 screws from the bottom of the dash

drop the fuse panel and remove its cover plate.

Disconnect the wiring to the ignition, headlight and wiper switches

pull the clock from the dash

disconnect the speedo and odometer reset cables

disconnect the AC hose

THERE IS A NUT just above the ignition switch

 

Slide the left side of the dash toward you, while sliding it to the left to clear the center console.  Once you clear it the dash just comes toward you and up and out

 

Now to what was the problem with mine.....its GREEN.  All the copper has oxidized.  Sections of the plastic have peeled away and the copper is green there as well.  I have lousy continuity throughout it.  I might have been able to clean all the copper but I have the new part so just change it.

 

Ive already verified the serviceability of 6 illumination bulbs and installed them and using a battery jumper verified good operation of those.   Its dinner time, I will finish it tomorrow

[alini]

car is back together completely.  I now have correct dash lights and the gas gauge doesnt go to E when I put the lights on anymore.  No extra grounds used.  So the circuit card was the fix.  That was the final major issue I needed to address.  Now its just small things, like the clock wont set, it runs but I cant set the time, the knobs locked up.  One of the woodtrim pieces on the dash is peeling on the corners, I need to reglue it.

Still need an alignment but the car tracks so straight right now I don't know I wanna screw with it.  Im watching the tires.  My drivers side resonator is a bit low, gonna readjust it to get more road clearance.  But I think I can honestly call it 'Done'

[RivNut]

9 hours ago, alini said:

But I think I can honestly call it 'Done'

Whoopee!  

[oldstyle]

NIce. I didn't know someone sells the circuit board.

[alini]

I would have tried a simple repair as the guys suggested. It once I got it out and I had the part here just better to change it.   If it was just a broken or worn contact I would repair it

[KongaMan]

FYI, surface oxidation doesn't matter.  In the same vein, testing continuity on an oxidized surface is often misleading, as the corrosion can keep you from making good contact, but that corrosion on the surface doesn't affect the conductor beneath.  Where the oxidation could have an affect is if it works its way into a connector or solder joint, or if it's so severe that it eats away enough of the conductor (e.g wire, trace, etc.) to lower its capacity.  And of course, if there's physical damage, all bets are off.  As for continuity in a conductor: you've either got it or you don't.