kevin32

[kevin32]

have a 1932 buick 3 speed trans does any body know what kind of fluid to use in trans and rear diff. , want to change fluids , in manual says sae 160 would , 75-90 gear lube be same type of fluid . thank you

[Guest]

600W that is readily available would be a closer oil. The numbers refer to the thickness of the oil so sae160 would be a lot thicker than sae75/90.  Even sae140 would be better than 75/90.  The 600W is a different rating as it is a steam cylinder oil.  Do a search here on gear lube.  Lots of information there. 

If your oil is too thick the transmission will be very slow and hard to shift, if it is too thin the gears don't slow down when you depress the clutch so you get clashing of teeth when shifting.

[Spinneyhill]

Bearing in mind, of course, there is no such thing as 600W. "600" is the viscosity measured on a different, superseded scale. The W is an SAE rating thing, referring to the viscosity performance at low temperature.

 

"600W" is below SAE 250 in viscosity.

 

I am using SAE 80W/90 in my 1930 Dodge. I will relearn how to double de-clutch again with more driving. Gear graunching doesn't happen when you do it properly but it takes some time to learn.

 

Just be aware that SOME EP additives contain sulphur and are not good for bronze. Some gearboxes have bronze bushes and later ones have bronze baulking rings. Oils are tested for their aggressiveness to copper using the ASTM Copper Strip Corrosion Test ASTM D 130/IP 154; you want a "1a" result. A "1b" test result is OK but "1a" is best. e.g. see http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28958/ep-additives-effects

 

Your chosen oil MSDS should tell you the ASTM D130 test result. If it doesn't, find another oil.

[ArticiferTom]

Do your search as SAE 140 , that's the common number . NAPA has Sta-lube 140 in gallons , Lucas has 140 in quarts . Amazon sells . There is a SAE 85-140 muti also . Just make sure it is GL-4 rated for the brass gears and bushes . I got the Sta- lube and the pump from Amazon good pairing as you can not pour it , it is so thick .

Edited September 14, 2016 by ArticiferTom (see edit history)

[C Carl]

Hey , guys , wasn't Buick synchromesh by '32 ? No need for double clutching. Perhaps respecting all the good advice above , a synthetic multi-grade gear oil in both components. 85-90W/140 at your parts store. Heed well Spinney' and Toms advice to protect your yellow metal. Spinney , you may find double clutching far easier by going to a 250W synthetic gear oil. That is the base oil I use in my crashboxes. I throw a bit of extreme pressure grease used in mining equipment where shock loads are enormous , in the mix. Someone proposed adding STP. Might be worthwhile to "tune" and extend the "sweet spot" range. Perhaps a mixture of 140W and STP ? Many crashbox jockies find pre-warmup trans temps  more difficult to shift , likewise very high trans temps. Make sure not to linger as you shift into neutral. Off the gas momentarily in neutral going up , quick clutch action , a fair amount of throttle downshifting. The very useful 3-1 double clutched downshift should be mastered by familiarizing yourself with the high revs at max speed in first. DO NOT go 3-1 at a speed in excess of top first gear speed. 3-1 , DO use the high revs you have learned at top first gear speed for that quick "blip" in neutral. Fair quick "blip" 3-2 also. That is a short elementary tutorial , but I always recommend to those learning to double clutch , to practice , practice , practice on a synchromesh trans. It should give you the smooth quick rhythm needed for clean shifts. Let's hear it !  - Carl

[kevin32]

I DID FIND 90W MINERIAL OIL AT NAPA THAT IS GL-1 WHICH I ALSO FOUND OUT SHOULD BE OK , ALSO WHEN CHECKING FOR OIL SOME SITES SAID NOT TO USE ANYTHING THAT WAS GL-4 OR MORE THAT WOULD HURT COPPER AND BRASS IN TRANS

[misterc9]

When did they stop putting brass or bronze parts in US manual transmissions ? Which GL number would be appropriate for a 56 Chevy manual trans and rear end ?