Chasander Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 How do trunk letters (B_U_I_C_K) attach/remove. I am not seeing access holes. On a 63 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 They attach via tabs that go through the trunk. From your question, it's hard to tell if you're trying to remove what you have or if you're looking to add what you don't have. If you don't see any holes (stamped rectangular) spaced across the middle of the trunk, with the I right in the middle, I'd say that someone filled them in in an attempt to start customizing the car or it has a '65 trunk lid on it. If you're trying to get them off, they pry out. They're fastened in with the same style clips that attach the horseshoe moldings. Be careful, they break easily; they're 50 year old die cast. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrlforfun Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 OK Chas: A suggestion. Douse the affected area with WD-40 before . After a while use a small pry bar with a sharp blade. For protection against dents to the metal I've used one...or even a pair of plastic bondo squeegees to prevent the pry bar from scratching or denting. Mitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Go to your nearest Harbor Freight (cheap) or jobber and get a set of trim and molding pullers. They're wide and flat. You can lift the entire letter rather than just a corner. http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-tool-set-67021.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chasander Posted August 12, 2016 Author Share Posted August 12, 2016 I was curious more then anything. On my 66 Skylark GS the trunk has access holes to get to self tapping nuts. I will look at a friends 63 to see if mine is different Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petelempert Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 Fifty years later, automotive badging has changed completely. Then: Holes drilled in the sheetmetal, clips and chrome plated pot metal letters. Now: Chrome plated adhesive backed plastic. The modern advantages for rust prevention, ease of assembly, lighter weight and lower cost are obvious. If you go to a junkyard, many 50-60's cars are still clinging to their badging. Cars from the late 70's on, rarely still have all their jewelry. But you have to wonder? Do you think 50 years from now some poor devil is going to be searching high and low to find NOS or reproduction plastic badging for a restoration? Worse yet, having to save and re chrome existing plastic? I'm restoring a late seventies Pontiac these days and I am shocked at the difference between a GM product like the Riv from 63 and a Pontiac from 77. Lots of plastic that gets very brittle. Many parts not restorable, only replaceable if you can find them. I don't think either car was necessarily built to last more than about 100K and 8-10 years. But the first gen Riv is built like a battleship...right down to the badging on the decklid. PRL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheezestaak2000 Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 maybe a little off topic, but on the 1966 wildcat trunk letters, occasionaly, i would screw up when installing them at the wilmington plant, and the very rare "MILDCAT" was born. imagine my suprise when 20 plus years later, i saw a 1966 mildcat! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 IIRC, I went through this with a '63 Electra. No obvious access holes through the trunk lid, but the letters were held on by a nut that needed to be unscrewed. Other pieces do press in to little rectangular "clips" which themselves clip into the body. You sometimes find that the clip comes out with the molding rather than staying in the panel. Not much help, I know, but the point (such as it is) is that you might want to verify the method of attachment before prying. If it is appropriate to pry, that's good advice about the Harbor Freight tools. You want to use the widest, flattest tool you can to distribute the force as evenly as possible. A credit card also makes a good backing plate for the tool to avoid marring the finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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