How rusty is too rusty?

[1912Staver]

Other than the hood are there any other body parts that are different than a standard GLT ? I have messed around with 240's quite a bit but was unaware of your version. I wonder if any of them came to Canada.

 

Greg

[Guest Gashog]

Other than the hood are there any other body parts that are different than a standard GLT ? I have messed around with 240's quite a bit but was unaware of your version. I wonder if any of them came to Canada.

Greg

Esthetically The hood and grille are the only unique features.

They had color matched spoilers but that was an option for all GLTs.

Under the hood, the only difference is the factory intercooler, despite Volvo folklore.

Edit: Also, no. They were only sold at high ranked US dealerships.

Edited February 5, 2016 by Gashog (see edit history)

[ScarredKnightfan]

I do love this car. It's one of those things that only someone like me would appreciate.

To everyone else, it's a pile of junk.

 

Been there, done that ... for at least 1, if not 2, cars of my past.

 

While it's sad in some ways, I prefer to look at it this way:  blazing my own trail & not conforming to the norm.

 

That said, to the query at hand, as someone else stated, it depends on how much $$ you have, etc.

 

 

Cort > www.oldcarsstronghearts.com

pigValve.paceMaker.cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic (needs new owner)

"Do you know what it feels like being alone?" __ All-American Rejects __ 'Swing Swing Swing'

[Guest Gashog]

Been there, done that ... for at least 1, if not 2, cars of my past.

 

While it's sad in some ways, I prefer to look at it this way:  blazing my own trail & not conforming to the norm.

 

That said, to the query at hand, as someone else stated, it depends on how much $$ you have, etc.

 

 

Cort > www.oldcarsstronghearts.com

pigValve.paceMaker.cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic (needs new owner)

"Do you know what it feels like being alone?" __ All-American Rejects __ 'Swing Swing Swing'

The most extensive rust repair I've tacked to date is cab corners on a friends Chevy.

I've replaced front clips, hammer and dolly and stud welded/pulled a Civic DX back straight.

I know I can do it, given the time.

What I can't afford is to have a shell prepared and painted.

The Local 825 has promised me a test come April-May,

If I test in, I will have the kind of cabbage to get a professional restoration done on the good shell I already have.

Thus, the renewed interest in this project.

As I said, I feel obligated to preserve this POS Volvo.

I would bandage it up with fiberglass if it didn't represent a piece of obscure automotive history.

I appreciate everyone's input on this.

I'm still going back and forth on how to execute the repairs.

I guess the extent of the damage will manifest its self once I get the paint off.

If it's past the point of spot welding on a couple rear quarters, I'll make up my mind then.

[Rusty_OToole]

Gashog if you refuse to listen to anything else I have said put the car up on a hoist, get a clipboard and a pen and make an inventory of what the car needs before you make up your mind.

[Guest Gashog]

I used to fix them that bad and worse when I worked in body shops in the seventies and eighties. Most body repair panels are still available for Volvo like wheel arches. Get it on a hoist and poke around underneath with a screwdriver and hammer before you make up your mind to fix it.

 

You probably won't listen to good sense, most of our customers back in the day wouldn't.  Speaking of sentimental value, when a customer insisted we fix some shitbox that belonged in the junk yard my old boss used to say ' he must have got his first piece of ass in the back seat'.

 

Do you plan to fix it yourself or pay someone? Unless you like welding it will be easier and cheaper to just buy a Volvo in better condition.

 

 

Under the circumstances I would consider repairing the car. First step is to get underneath and inspect every inch of the body carefully, photograph every inch and make notes of what needs repair.

 

Do the same with the outside.

 

Now get busy on the net and see if repair panels are available. If not don't worry, most panels can be made from sheet metal or cut from a junkyard donor.

 

Next question, do you have a shop and do you have any experience welding up rusty cars? If you do, you should be able to do it yourself. If not, that is too big a project for a beginner. I'm not saying you couldn't do it but it is better not to overmatch yourself in your first bout.

 

I want to be crystal clear here. If it was JUST the rust damage we see on the outside I would say go ahead and fix it up. Even if there are some small holes underneath, I would say fix it up. But if there is major structural damage underneath then no.

 

Another issue is how much will it reduce the value of the car to have had bodywork done compared to a pristine example? Compared to a reshell? If the work is done properly it should not make much difference. Neither would be worth as much as a car that never had major repairs. But, if the Volvo experts say it would be worth a lot more with the special parts transferred to a good shell maybe that would influence your decision.

 

To sum up: It would be quite possible to repair that car but not an economically sound choice EXCEPT in the case of an irreplaceable car.  So go ahead and fix it up UNLESS the body shell is seriously compromised underneath.

 

Assess the needed repairs, prepare and estimate of time and materials, map out a plan and go from there.

 

 

Gashog if you refuse to listen to anything else I have said put the car up on a hoist, get a clipboard and a pen and make an inventory of what the car needs before you make up your mind.

 

 

Got it!

 

If my upcoming career move pans out, I will have the time and money to do this properly. (Anyone have a buddy in the Local 825?)

I think it would be better to repair the original body, but only if the structural parts are solid.

 

I have a clean shell. That would be plan B....amirite?

[Buffalowed Bill]

You don't have to go to the ends of the earth to get one of these. As a matter of fact in my world you can get a whole car with no rust, paint and interior in place and even presentable for less then you could do a cheap paint job!https://seattle.craigslist.org/search/cta?is_paid=all&postedToday=1&search_distance_type=mi&query=volvo+242

[Rusty_OToole]

How many parts would you need to swap out to make your good body car a 'special'? If it's just the hood, grille, intercooler and serial number plate that would be easier than doing the bodywork. On the other hand if you have to strip it to a bare shell, and the rust damage is no worse than what we see, it would be easier to fix it.

[Guest Gashog]

You don't have to go to the ends of the earth to get one of these. As a matter of fact in my world you can get a whole car with no rust, paint and interior in place and even presentable for less then you could do a cheap paint job!https://seattle.craigslist.org/search/cta?is_paid=all&postedToday=1&search_distance_type=mi&query=volvo+242

 

They pop up from time to time.

A guy in Michigan just found one identical to mine but automatic for $750.

Non runner..sitting for years, but rust free. Has collision damage.

He's restoring it now.

 

This isn't a regular 242 BTW.

One of several replies from Volvo:

On Tue, Mar 24, 2015 at 10:13 AM, Johnston, Daniel <daniel.johnston@volvocars.com> wrote:

Hi Mike,

Dean asked that I come back to you with some thoughts on this car. Oh, the 240 Flat Nose, interesting story and depending on who answers, well there are different versions. There was a time when we had literally tons of rear axles and turbo chargers in our warehouse here in Rockleigh that were marked for European Touring Car Championship cars but never seemed to have actually make into production cars. There were also rumors about suspension changes and I’m certain they never were implemented. There were 500 flat nose 240’s for US market and they were sold with standard emission equipment, meaning they were certified by EPA. Had they been modified, they would never pass emission certification.

Here are couple of pieces from Wikipedia ............................snip...............................

............................http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Group_A

.........................................snip................................

While you’re Flat Nose may not be up to ETCC specs, it is still rather unique. Not until the Screaming Yellow T5R’s did we do another run of limited “performance” cars. That went so well it would lead the way to S60 and V70 R series and today with Pole Star equipped performance Volvos.

Hope that helps.

Kindest regards,

dan

 

 

How many parts would you need to swap out to make your good body car a 'special'? If it's just the hood, grille, intercooler and serial number plate that would be easier than doing the bodywork. On the other hand if you have to strip it to a bare shell, and the rust damage is no worse than what we see, it would be easier to fix it.

 

I think it's bad.

The floor is rotted away from the rockers. Just 2-3" and only in spots.

The reinforcement boxes, subframes, suspension points etc. are solid and intact but to make repairs that aren't obvious is beyond my skill set.

I could make it look good from the street but anyone who bothered to crawl under and inspect the pinch welds would see my bodywork right away.

 

I'm leaning toward the shell swap again.