Lebowski

What causes a carb to backfire?

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Just occurred to me:  Is this car equipped with a PCV valve (positive crankcase ventilation valve)?  They were mandatory in California on new cars beginning in 1961, but The Pipples' Republik also required me to retrofit one onto a 1950 Pontiac.

 

I believe GM may have had them even before 1961.

 

Just IF you do have a PCV, either factory or a retrofit installation, it should be located and cleaned or replaced, just on General Principles.  

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 Is this car equipped with a PCV valve (positive crankcase ventilation valve)?  

 

Jeff checked and said it didn't have one. Thanks for the suggestion....

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 Is this car equipped with a PCV valve (positive crankcase ventilation valve)?  

 

Jeff checked and said it didn't have one. Thanks for the suggestion....

The car didn't come with one from the factory. It came with a pressure suction road draft system.

California was the first state to implement PCV system in 1961, Federal requirement for PCV was 1962. Some states like California made you retrofit one on a 1955-1960 car when you sold the vehicle. Later if you happen to be a original owner and didn't do the retrofit  ca. had changed the requirement not to have it done.

Edited by helfen (see edit history)

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Wouldn't hurt to check the road draft tube and any associated gauze filters for any blockage.

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If you recall, I mentioned that the point gap affects the dwell angle and, thus the timing. Did you guys check on the condition of, or replace the points before timing the engine? Has the oil burning diminished any at all since adding the "Restore"?

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If you buy a used engine it is going to be 50 years old and may not be any better than the one you have. Not trying to rain on your parade, just pointing out the obvious. Do a compression test, check oil pressure, and run it long enough to find out if it burns oil or not. You don't want to buy an engine, pay to have it swapped in, then find out you wasted your money.

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That motor is definately tired,plenty of smoke out the tail pipe and road draft tube and the oil cap. We did not check the point gap but the timing was retarded about a 3/4 inch away from the mark,I wish I could have been more helpfull but its rebuild time for that 223. I drove my 65 custom 500 down there and burnt a exhaust valve on the trip so it looks like I have some work to do too.

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A cheap attempt would be to stick a PCV in the system ands see what happens.

I agree that this owner already has a used motor in his car,  Chances are that the next one will be used as well.

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At least with a new/used one (and I'd look for the higher compression later one) you can check the compression first.

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I agree that this owner already has a used motor in his car,  Chances are that the next one will be used as well.

 

I called Jasper today and they want $4600 to rebuild the engine plus I would have to pay a shop to remove all the parts and put it all back together which would probably be a couple thousand more so it looks like I'm going to have to find a used one and hope for the best. There's a 223 in PA on Ebay right now and another one in Nebraska for $600 so if I get one of them I'm sure you guys wouldn't mind talking me through an engine swap which I've never attempted before-right? LOL

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I can come back down and help you and should have a newer set of heads on the 65 for the next trip there.

 

Remember when you said you could swap engines in an afternoon? I found an engine yesterday in Lincoln, Nebraska and am going to get it this weekend. It's a 223 out of a '57 Ford that the guy bought 6 months ago and drove 80 miles home. He's going to restore the car and install a Ford crate 427 and Tremec 5 speed. He swears up and down that it runs great and doesn't smoke. It has the metal element type oil filter where mine screws on and the valve cover is held on by two bolts through the top and mine has bolts around the edges but those are the only differences that I could see. He owns a body shop in Lincoln and his father is a retired Ford mechanic whom he said I could call because he followed the guy home after he bought the car and wanted him to keep the 6 in it because it ran so good. He sounds like a decent guy so hopefully it will be worth $500 and a 1500 mile round trip. Is there anyone from Lincoln on the board?

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Remember when you said you could swap engines in an afternoon? I found an engine yesterday in Lincoln, Nebraska and am going to get it this weekend. It's a 223 out of a '57 Ford that the guy bought 6 months ago and drove 80 miles home. He's going to restore the car and install a Ford crate 427 and Tremec 5 speed. He swears up and down that it runs great and doesn't smoke. It has the metal element type oil filter where mine screws on and the valve cover is held on by two bolts through the top and mine has bolts around the edges but those are the only differences that I could see. He owns a body shop in Lincoln and his father is a retired Ford mechanic whom he said I could call because he followed the guy home after he bought the car and wanted him to keep the 6 in it because it ran so good. He sounds like a decent guy so hopefully it will be worth $500 and a 1500 mile round trip. Is there anyone from Lincoln on the board?

I live in Syracuse, 25 miles from Lincoln.

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I live in Syracuse, 25 miles from Lincoln.

 

Ever heard of Mpressive Auto Body (he spells it without the "I" so that is the correct spelling) which is one mile from the U of Nebraska football stadium? The seller owns it and I verified that through the BBB website. Would you pay $500 for an engine that you can't hear run? The guy sounds honest but I've been burned before by trusting people I don't know. Plus a 1500 mile round trip is a LONG way for me to go. Any suggestions?

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How about this one just south of Erie, PA? It's only about 350 miles away instead of 750 to Nebraska. The guy made a video of it running. The Ebay auction ends tomorrow. What do you guys think of this one? What would be a reasonable price?

 

Edited by Lebowski (see edit history)

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Ever heard of Mpressive Auto Body (he spells it without the "I" so that is the correct spelling) which is one mile from the U of Nebraska football stadium? The seller owns it and I verified that through the BBB website. Would you pay $500 for an engine that you can't hear run? The guy sounds honest but I've been burned before by trusting people I don't know. Plus a 1500 mile round trip is a LONG way for me to go. Any suggestions?

Never heard of them. Personally I would rebuild what you have. I rebuilt a 240 out of a 1969 F100 in the late nineties, I don't think I even had $1500 invested. I will add the disclaimer that I work as a mechanic, so do all my own work. And my machine work is done at wholesale. It all comes down to knowing what you have, you can buy another used engine and be worse than what you have already.

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Never heard of them. Personally I would rebuild what you have. I rebuilt a 240 out of a 1969 F100 in the late nineties, I don't think I even had $1500 invested. I will add the disclaimer that I work as a mechanic, so do all my own work. And my machine work is done at wholesale. It all comes down to knowing what you have, you can buy another used engine and be worse than what you have already.

 

I agree with that, or at the very least take yours apart and see what is going or not going on prior to another engine that you don't anything about

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That basic kit that Carbking shows is a pretty good deal and a basic recondition is pretty easy for most car guys.

However, I would not buy it without taking the engine apart and inspecting the bores and crank.

Most of the time one of these cheap rebuilds with standard used surfaces work OK, but  if you find it necessary to turn the crank or bore the cylinders you can customize the rebuild kit. The oversized pistons will bump the price of the kit some.

If you take the bare block and the head to a machine shop it may cost a few hundred on top of the kit, but I bet it could be pulled off for under a thousand before assembly which should take some one that knows how the better part of a day.

 

First pull the engine out and tear down.

Then take the block and head to a machine shop for measuring and estimates.

Then wait for the parts and machining.

Plan a clean day for assembly.

Then put it back in the car.

Shouldn't take more than a month with only three or four days working on it yourself.

 

I know that you are not engine savvy from your posts so maybe a possibility would be to check with a local tech school or maybe a jr. college.

I don't know if they teach this stuff in the high school shops anymore, but might be worth an ask.

I had some body work done by the State Penitentiary once that worked out well.

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OTOH if you plan to keep the car (and it is a neat one) having a spare engine and trans is not a bad idea. Then you can take the time to do yours right while still enjoying the ride. That should be a simple engine to swap.

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​I emailed the guy in PA who made the first video (post #168) and asked him to make a second video with him revving it up some so he did. It doesn't look like a smoker to me but it does sound like there's a miss in the engine. Is that something serious or not? What do you think it's worth? It has a 3 speed manual trans. (same as what's in my car) that I don't need. Thanks....

 

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You only don't need it until you need it.

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It actually sounds OK. I think the miss may be carb related plus it has no exhaust. The other thing is the carb filter was open so I don't know how it would have performed with a complete air cleaner.

What year it the engine from? 223'a from 61 and newer have slightly less power.

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