Guest RICKBOB Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 I inherited a 1935 plymouth pj deluxe from my father. It only has 30,000 miles on it and everything is original . I have had to clean out gas tank new fuel pump and it started and purrs like a kiton for about 50 miles. Then the oil canister blew a hole at the seam so i thought a new oil canister would fix the problem. But the new canister blew completel apart after running maybe a minute. I have removed the input and output lines into the block and ive taken the big bolt with the spring in it out which was filled with crud. should i be able to blow coppressed air in where the return line from filter goes ino block. Don't have a shop manuel and not sure how oil system works any ideals would be greatly appreciated. thaks from mo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 (edited) DON'T BLOW AIR INTO THE OIL PASSAGE! This will only blow all the crud into the bearings and oil passages and starve the bearings of oil, making it necessary to completely dis-assembly of the motor. Try to get the crud out with a small round brush, taking care not to push it in . Then spray a solvent into the hole under low pressure allowing it to wash out the grime. This may help but there is danger that the oil passages will still become blocked or are already blocked that may wipe out the bearings. The only safe way without dis-assembling the whole engine is to drop the pan and remove the bearings in the crank and rods and then flush the passages out with the solvent. Each hole in the crank must be cleaned with a small round brush (3/16") Edited September 15, 2015 by Roger Walling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 (edited) Shop manual See pages 108 and 116 http://www.pwchryslerclub.org/PlymouthManual_OCR.pdf The main bearings can be "rolled" out with a special tool that fits in the oil hole in the crank that is available at any auto parts store (very inexpensive). It is possible to remove all the bearings except the center one or the end ones at one time in order to clean the oil passages. Then do the other ones. Keep them all in order, IE, top #1 and bottom #1 etc. Mark all the main caps and rod caps with a prick punch before disassembling. (., .., ..., ....,) If you have never worked inside an engine before, make sure that you seek help on each step of the way. It could be as simple as the by pass spring in the filter was stuck with crud. If the oil line going into the motor from the filter is clear, you may have lucked out. Edited September 15, 2015 by Roger Walling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwellens Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 That engine should only have about 30psi oild pressure at driving speed. What does the gage on the dash indicate for pressure when driving and idleing? I doubt the oil pump could produce enough presuure to blow out the oil canister even if you had a clogged system. And if it is clogged, you will not drive many miles before you hear the rods knocking. Are you using the original type sealed canister liike a PB1/2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Get yourself a copy of the factory service manual. Roger Walling kindly gave a link to a scan of a suitable manual but the image reproduction is way off of what a good reprint or better yet an original. Study how the oil pressure relief and bypass filter setup work together. Sounds like your oil pressure relief spring was filled with crud. But it also sounds like you have not removed and cleaned out the plunger that the spring works against. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Your oil pressure relief valve was plugged, resulting in excess oil pressure which blew the filters. On most Chrysler built engines of that period the oil pump was on the outside of the block and can be removed, taken apart and cleaned. Suggest you take the oil pan off, clean out the gook, clean the pickup screen and inspect for excess dirt. I don't know how dirty your oil system is so I don't know whether you need to take the engine completely apart or not. But I do know that it is not unusual for the relief valve to get gummed up when a car sits around a lot. You may just need to clean the relief valve of sludge and varnish, and clean out the pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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