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daylight after 29 years: 1938 Dodge D-8 sedan


Guest Chief Dodgie

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Guest Chief Dodgie

apologies for the crudeness of the photos, i see there are some double shots in my selections as well. More to come!~~~

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Guest Chief Dodgie
Nice Find. :D I also agree with keeping it original. Dandy Dave.

Im certainly going to. it just amazes me how little rust there is on this D-8, seems to be made of much higher quality steel and treated to last longer than the 51 chieftain. i really didn't care for the grey color much, pretty drab. but its beginning to grow on me :)

I found a photo of paint chips, some of the colors are listed as a 'jewelesence' curious if anyone knows if thats refering to a pearl, or metal fleck? or what...?

post-100594-143142510142_thumb.jpg

also, when it comes time to put back into the interior what the years and mice have taken away, who's selling reproduction upholstery cloth that will agree with keeping this original?

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Guest Chief Dodgie

"...Exactly what he said. Make the brakes perfect, including the emergency brake, and the mechanicals decent. Preserve the original patina, to heck with restorations. Restored cars own the owners, original cars are enjoyed.

I would add, replace the water distribution tube, flexible fuel line, pumps, belt, hoses, and go."

I've been mulling over your comment since you made it. Some things must be repaired and refurbished or it will continue to decay. In the spirit of keeping it original, and making it as reliable, and beautiful as the week it was purchased new, where do you suggest a line is drawn, whereby one might not find himself happily owned by his car?

Edited by Chief Dodgie
mq (see edit history)
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"...Exactly what he said. Make the brakes perfect, including the emergency brake, and the mechanicals decent. Preserve the original patina, to heck with restorations. Restored cars own the owners, original cars are enjoyed.

I would add, replace the water distribution tube, flexible fuel line, pumps, belt, hoses, and go."

I've been mulling over your comment since you made it. Some things must be repaired and refurbished or it will continue to decay. In the spirit of keeping it original, and making it as reliable, and beautiful as the week it was purchased new, where do you suggest a line is drawn, whereby one might not find himself happily owned by his car?

That decision is yours. Do as much, or as little as you want to. It is your car. Do what makes you happy. Dandy Dave!

Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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I think the point or 'line in the sand' when you need to really think about stopping or going ahead is with the paint. An older, but acceptable paint job doesn't create heartburn, high blood pressure or anxiety when you take your car out for a drive. Even driving on dirt, gravel unimproved roads.. a few more small paint chips mean nothing compared to just getting out and DRIVING.

I know many people who used to drive the tires off their old car or cars.. then they painted it up all 'purdy' and now they won't take it out if there is a threat of any rain or drizzle, or anywhere near a gravel road. It's just a shame.

Like what was said earlier: YOU own the driver-car, but the restored show-car OWNS YOU.

So I'd stop and spot repair any areas of the body that will continue to deteriorate and rust if left untreated, do the mechanicals, even chrome the rusted pieces. I'd just think really hard about spending $10-$20,000 for a paint job that will cause you to park the car instead of driving it.

I live on a mile and half of gravel road, I just won't ever own a true show car, it's just not feasible for me to trailer to any local event, and I won't risk chipping an expensive paint job.

GLong

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Guest Chief Dodgie
I think the point or 'line in the sand' when you need to really think about stopping or going ahead is with the paint. An older, but acceptable paint job doesn't create heartburn, high blood pressure or anxiety when you take your car out for a drive. Even driving on dirt, gravel unimproved roads.. a few more small paint chips mean nothing compared to just getting out and DRIVING.

I know many people who used to drive the tires off their old car or cars.. then they painted it up all 'purdy' and now they won't take it out if there is a threat of any rain or drizzle, or anywhere near a gravel road. It's just a shame.

Like what was said earlier: YOU own the driver-car, but the restored show-car OWNS YOU.

So I'd stop and spot repair any areas of the body that will continue to deteriorate and rust if left untreated, do the mechanicals, even chrome the rusted pieces. I'd just think really hard about spending $10-$20,000 for a paint job that will cause you to park the car instead of driving it.

I live on a mile and half of gravel road, I just won't ever own a true show car, it's just not feasible for me to trailer to any local event, and I won't risk chipping an expensive paint job.

GLong

Good advise, and thank you :)

I didnt obtain the chieftain OR the D8 to park, I got'em to drive!

While this is the Oldest car I've ever owned, it is not the first car I've brought back to life. Ive never hired out for anything but chrome, radiator, generator/starter rebuilds, Machine work, and instrument/radio repairs. All the mechanicals, Upholstery, Paint~Body, wiring, tires, welding, etc... i have always done myself. I really DO enjoy these wonderful pieces of history, and take seriously the responsibilty that comes with them. Think about it, another "cash~for~clunkers" scheme and this D8 might be one of a mere 100 left! what then! EEK!

That being said, even if i spend a month straight reworking the metal on this beauty til shes better than new, and give it a concourse deluxe paint~up... I'll still expect to get another 124,000 miles out of it, just like the family before me did over the course of four generations. That really is my intention. If i could buy this car new today, well, i'd buy two, and drive em til they passed a law not to:)

All the rubber seals, fender welting, and chrome on the outside of this machine are worn to the point of compromise. since i have to strip glass to replace anyhow, i'll likely strip it down, and paint it with a fresh coat of Gunmetal Grey Jewelesence and keep a scrap book of all the chips i give it, not to mention what my beautiful children are going to do to it... !!! Heres hoping this car survives four generations of my descendants. Some of my fondest memories with my father include the cars he drove, the cars we rode in as children, spilled drinks in, slammed fingers in, broke knobs, tore seats, scratched windows...ahhhh, what good times!

I aim to give my children the same notable memories.

I can always paint it again!

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Bravo !! I didn't realize you would not be 'writing a check' for a paint job. Your plan sounds perfect.. your kids are lucky to have a great father to learn from.. I too was lucky to have a talented father to learn from.

Again: BRAVO !!

GLong

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As you can see, most of the people here vote for keeping it as you found it. It's taken a long time for some car collectors to be comfortable with an unrestored car. Today what was once called shabby is called patina and is part of the story of the car's survival. In the end you have to do what is right for you and what makes you comfortable, but keep in mind that whatever you do to its appearance also changes your graphic ability to tell that story to folks like us to whom the story is part of the car itself. My advice is to make it a runner and use it like it is until you are overwhelmed with the need to do something more extreme like taking it out of service to restore it. By the way which side of the mountains do you reside, don't have to tell me where just which side.

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Thanks for the location information. I'm from the Seattle area, maybe will get to see your car sometime. There is no AACA activity in the NW an alternative is the GEAA which is a pre war group out of Tacoma but with members all over the NW. Check it out it might be something that you may want to look into.

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Guest AlCapone

Drive it and enjoy it and don't sweat the small things. I would have a mechanic / technician check the brakes and steering to ensure it is safe. I would also inspect the tires to ensure they are not cracked and severely worn. When it is safe, drive it like you own a Cadillac !

Wayne

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Guest Chief Dodgie
Drive it and enjoy it and don't sweat the small things. I would have a mechanic / technician check the brakes and steering to ensure it is safe. I would also inspect the tires to ensure they are not cracked and severely worn. When it is safe, drive it like you own a Cadillac !

Wayne

Thanks for the advice~ i am a mechanic :} in two weeks my shop comes available, my plan is as follows:

Day 1&2: dismantle entirely.

Day 3: Have chassis sandblasted

Day 4: Dismantle Engine, send block and head in to be cleaned, and manifolds in to be shaved, Drums Turned

Day 5: Clean and reseal Transmission and Rear End assemblies, and of the day goes well, the drive shaft too.

Day 6: Clean and re-bushing the front steering linkage and suspension, clean rear suspension components, Brake Components too.

Day 7: I have two sets of wheels and tires for this D8, i will pick five, strip them and prep for paint.

Day 8: when the frame returns, i will treat with rust preventative, etch prime, filler prime, block sand, and seal.

Day 9: do the same for all the drivetrain components i have repaired.

Day 10: Paint everything in as close to the proper black as i can, giving it the strongest, most durable coating i can muster.

Day 11: When the engine parts come back, reassemble the motor as new, replacing what i must, though i think it was recently rebuilt.

Day 12: Paint the Engine, Radiator, Starter, Generator, Distributor, Air Cleaner, Voltage Regulator, Horns, anything else that needs it in the drive train.

While the coatings are curing...

Day 13: strip paint and rust from the body, taking note of trouble areas...

Day 14: Begin to weld in steel patches where needed.

Day15&16: Begin to work out dents...Thank you Dad for teaching me how :-)

Day 17: treat the whole car with rust preventative

Day 18: undercoat and soundproof where needed

Day 19: etch prime filler prime

Day 20: Glaze where needed

Day 21: filler prime

Day 22: block it out

Day 23: seal

Day 24: base and clear

While the paint is curing....

Day25-35: begin re-upholstery, re-assemble chassis

Day 36: set body to frame

Day 37: rewire

Day 38: set glass

Day 39: install interior

Day 40: set trim

Day 41: deliver to Exhaust shop to have exhaust installed.

Not too sure how many days will fall between those days, but that generally is how i deal with making a car drivable and safe.

sound like a good plan?

Edited by Chief Dodgie
er (see edit history)
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Guest Chief Dodgie

well i think that is it. I learned from the inventory of parts that this D8 likely came with a dealer, or factory installed spotlight. there is a patch in the body where one was installed. also, i noticed the antenna was no longer on the D8, its mounting holes were also patched when 'grandpa' redid the paint. those will definitely have to be re-installed.

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Guest Chief Dodgie
Thanks for the location information. I'm from the Seattle area, maybe will get to see your car sometime. There is no AACA activity in the NW an alternative is the GEAA which is a pre war group out of Tacoma but with members all over the NW. Check it out it might be something that you may want to look into.

I'll look into it indeed. thanks for the lead.

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Thanks for the advice~ i am a mechanic :} in two weeks my shop comes available, my plan is as follows:

Day 1&2: dismantle entirely.

Day 3: Have chassis sandblasted

Day 4: Dismantle Engine, send block and head in to be cleaned, and manifolds in to be shaved, Drums Turned

Day 5: Clean and reseal Transmission and Rear End assemblies, and of the day goes well, the drive shaft too.

Day 6: Clean and re-bushing the front steering linkage and suspension, clean rear suspension components, Brake Components too.

Day 7: I have two sets of wheels and tires for this D8, i will pick five, strip them and prep for paint.

Day 8: when the frame returns, i will treat with rust preventative, etch prime, filler prime, block sand, and seal.

Day 9: do the same for all the drivetrain components i have repaired.

Day 10: Paint everything in as close to the proper black as i can, giving it the strongest, most durable coating i can muster.

Day 11: When the engine parts come back, reassemble the motor as new, replacing what i must, though i think it was recently rebuilt.

Day 12: Paint the Engine, Radiator, Starter, Generator, Distributor, Air Cleaner, Voltage Regulator, Horns, anything else that needs it in the drive train.

While the coatings are curing...

Day 13: strip paint and rust from the body, taking note of trouble areas...

Day 14: Begin to weld in steel patches where needed.

Day15&16: Begin to work out dents...Thank you Dad for teaching me how :-)

Day 17: treat the whole car with rust preventative

Day 18: undercoat and soundproof where needed

Day 19: etch prime filler prime

Day 20: Glaze where needed

Day 21: filler prime

Day 22: block it out

Day 23: seal

Day 24: base and clear

While the paint is curing....

Day25-35: begin re-upholstery, re-assemble chassis

Day 36: set body to frame

Day 37: rewire

Day 38: set glass

Day 39: install interior

Day 40: set trim

Day 41: deliver to Exhaust shop to have exhaust installed.

Not too sure how many days will fall between those days, but that generally is how i deal with making a car drivable and safe.

sound like a good plan?

Sounds like a very aggressive restoration. I will be anxious to see how close you come to your schedule.

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