Will these 12 x 1-3/4" shoes fit?

[beerczar1976]

I've got a '50 Special. As with the Super, the shop manual calls for 1-3/4" brake shoes. The old Bendix# was 29, which looks maybe have been discontinued. I've found a few places that list re-lined or re-lining service, but are kind of expensive once you add core charges and freight on. The Bendix online parts database pulls up the 2-1/4" shoes for all three series cars, which we know is incorrect. Now, I just came across this while searching for the terms online. An International truck forum post lists that a 1963 C1200 used 12 x 1-3/4" front brake shoes and that the guy found them on RockAuto. Sure enough, Raybestos and Wagner both list a 12 x 1-3/4" shoe. Raybestos 30PG and Wagner ANA30R. The Wagner's ($17.58) at least per the photo show to be riveted and made with organic friction material. The Raybestos ($38.79) appear to be bonded and possibly organic as well.

Will these work?! Or is it that the shoe size just happens to be the same but something about the "metal frame" that the lining material is attached to will not work, is shaped wrong, holes are in wrong location, etc?

[Wheelnut]

Can't tell you about the International truck shoes, but CARS has your Buick shoes for $55, new, no core. Seems like a safer bet.

http://www.oldbuickparts.com/catalog/up-to-1960-buick-group-brakes-brake-shoe-set-1936-1955-buick-34-p-7693.html

[Wheelnut]

I just looked at the pictures of the International truck brakes on Rockauto. They are definitely made different than the Buick's. The holes and slots for the adjusters at the bottom are different, and I doubt they could interchange based on that alone. No telling what other dimensions are different without getting a close look.

[beerczar1976]

Wheelnut, thanks. I thought I'd at least try. I'm sure someone else would have figured this out by now if indeed the 30 series shoes fit. I'm still tossing around going with the ones CARS has, which I believe are bonded vs. a locally sourced set of re-lined shoes that are riveted. I know some of the other guys are offering riveted sets too, but with core charge and shipping it adds up, initially at least. Not sure if one style is necessarily stronger than the other. I'm following up one last option with a family member who works at an auto parts store. Will be getting my car back out of storage probably this weekend and will pull wheels to see exactly what's what. Who knows, shoes may be good, and it's only the hydraulics that are jacked up.

[60FlatTop]

Here is a set I had done for my '53 Jaguar by Rochester Clutch & Brake. They glass beaded the cores and bonded new lining. There are three variations of non-asbestos material, durable every day, performance, and stand on your nose. I drop off the shoes and drums. They fit and arch the shoes to the drums for a perfect fit. The cost is about $50 per wheel. They do a great job and up in our area, with their service, we even have Rolls-Royces that stop.

A local, experienced shop should be able to equal the work if you ask for it specifically.

Bernie

[beerczar1976]

Tried pulling my drums over the weekend. Couldn't figure out how to get them off until I gave up. I found an old post on hear for somebody that couldn't figure out their 53 drums were removed either. Turns out I was one bolt away! I had to just take out the wheel alignment stud. I would never have thought that the drums are held on by just three, pretty little bolts! Well, there's always next weekend. Us SE Mass. guys are staring down snow again mid-week. Give me break already!! LOL. I also saw that the boot on my Master Cylinder is dried and cracked. I'm thinking this is probably the root of most of my brake issues. Hoping it's re-buildable without needing to get re-sleeved.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Remember, all those three "little" bolts have to do is hold the drum in place until the wheel is installed.

Ben