E041 code and driveability

[Jerry Moriah]

Just purchased an 89 for my daughter. Or actually half purchased because my father likes his 91 he bought last year in FL. Basically grandpa bought a car for my 18 year old who loves the old fart dearly?!? Thus I HAVE MY HALF, $1200 in a blue 89 with 94K, AC not working code B448, right headlight doesn't pop up or down, Passenger door doesnt completely unlock without pushing manual unlock or turning key, Power antennae froze half way up, Instrument panel sometimes doesn't light up when started cold (seems to be related to temperature?), slight RF wheel bearing noise, idles a little rough, has stalled a couple times when stopping, Anti lock light comes on under moderate and hard braking (and yes the anti locks kick in making a hard emergency stop way too long!) Ive only driven her 3 short trips.

Leaving early morning from middle TN to IN line to get titled, 7 hours round trip non stop driving. Have to take car for out of state VIN verification.

I reset the codes earlier: E041 C, E041 H, E044 H, B122 H, B123 H, B448 H, C553 H. After reset the SES light came on immediately and E044 C and E044 H were present after restart. I assume that the Cam sprocket magnet is probably missing. My question is about driving 7 hours this way. Code E044 H is lean exhaust?!? I assume the engine is running on factory presets when it cant get a reading from the CPS? I assume she SHOULD BE OK TO DRIVE? I also notice the temp gauge fluctuating between 208 and 219, once as high as 229F. Both fans running but doesn't seem to be overheating?

I am working six days a week and this is the only time I have to do this. GETTING UP AT 5 A.M. I have to be back by 5 P.M.

U think she'll be ok? A little concerned that she might be running too lean?

Jerry

[Mr. Anderson]

First off, welcome to the forum, and to the wonderful world of the reatta! Now for some help. I am not an expert by any means, but hopefully I can help you with some of these things.

Starting with the stalling problem, code E041, as you know, is the Cam sensor code, and like you said, the magnet has probably deteriorated or fallen out. This sensor is used to aid in the sequential fuel injection process, and without the signal from the sensor or magnet, the ECM will randomly fire the injectors, and can result in a rough idle and stalling. Another issue related to stalling could be a gummed up IAC (idle air control) valve, which is located underneath the throttle body and mass air flow sensor housing. The IAC can be viewed in diagnostic mode as ED22.

This is an unbelievably helpful resource for these cars: http://www.reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/57-diagnostic-information/diagnostic-instructions/56-diagnostics-instructions-page-1#pg-1

Now, for the E044 code. You are correct, this is a lean exhaust signal, or high O2 in exhaust. This also means that the O2 sensor is constantly showing low voltage. This voltage can be viewed in diagnostic mode as ED07. If it is constantly low, you may need to replace the sensor.

As far as the engine temp goes, these engines were designed to run at higher temps, so these numbers are not so out of the norm. Were these numbers from mainly stop-and-go traffic? If so, then that could be the cause, but it wouldn't hurt to check the fans and thermostat reading.

The Anti-Lock light coming on under braking conditions could be a sign of a weak or failing accumulator. I would take the brake tests, found here, to determine additional troubleshooting.

B448 is a very low A/C refrigerant pressure condition. This code will disengage the A/C clutch until the code is fixed. I know very little about this issue, but surely others can chime in on it.

That's about all that I can think of. Good luck with everything! Hopefully others will comment and aid you with these repairs.

[padgett]

Things unless attended tend to stack up. First thing before a 7 hour drive should be a major tune up including plugs (I like AC Delco Rapidires), plug wires, new O2 sensor, oil (10w-30) and filter, air cleaner, coolant flush. 180F Stant SuperStat thermostat, new serpentine belt.

With the current weather in Indiana you should not be reaching even 200 with a stock thermostat. With a 180 it should not reach 185 (btw a 180 gives roast you out heat at 0F) another symptom of a clogged cooling system is bad heat.

ABS: are you getting both red (brake) and yellow (ABS) light or just the yellow. If just the yellow does the red come on at startup ? Generally a boost system problem (accumulator) will trigger the red and the yellow comes on in sympathy. If just the yellow it may be something else & will need to pull codes.

Headlight probably needs the motor rebuilt. I would just leave them up (button on console) so the motor doesn't spin.

This really sounds like a car that has been neglected for a long time but if it has a good body/chassis/interior & runs well otherwise, (missing magnet - if it guesses right (they usually do and you will know quickly if it doesn't) can go for a long time but for a 89 with less than 100k the fix is easy but you need to be able to feel your fingers (spent five years in Indiana, part of reason I live in Orlando) it should serve nicely. Key is to fix things immediately.

[Ronnie]

You will find a good test for the accumulator and instructions for replacing it here. A good description of how the accumulator works can also be found there.

Thanks to Barney and others for the information!

The Reatta Store has new accumulators if you new one.

[Jerry Moriah]

Thanks for the replies. I made it back to Murfreesboro TN. but I am exhausted! We just moved to Murfreesboro TN from Fort Wayne IN, but still have home in IN, thus the trip to closest license branch over state line.

I'm guessing the thermostat isn't opening all the way, or little at all. The heater works great! Ran the heat on high the whole trip kept temp down around 208 to 215 most of the time, WINDOW DOWN OF COURSE. Is the thermostat at the back of the upper radiator hose?

The E044 lean exhaust code did come back after driving a while

The yellow anti lock light is the only one coming on. Sometimes even when not in gear, and brake is pushed. When applied I don't feel the normal pedal pulsation with anti locks? Feels kind of like there is light oil on rotors and takes a second to burn it off before they grab? After the yellow light goes out you have to press hard to get the light back on. I am hearing what I believe is wear indicator squeal. haven't had a chance to look at the pads yet. Can I bleed / flush the front breaks myself???

Considering the previous owner only put 2K on in 8 years, she drove quite nice, JUST GLAD I DIDNT HAVE TO MAKE AN EMERGENCY STOP! 383 miles on 3/4 tank, computer read 27.5 Avg.

She's not a bad looking car, I found better deals but my daughters wouldn't let me buy those colors. "This one is blue!" I HAVE 5 DAUGHTERS!

I am quite handy, but too busy and wore out from my new job down here. Nissan is on shut down for holidays and I needed to be done with the search by Christmas anyways.

Oh the Instrument panel was totally dark until she warmed up for a while then came on about 5 miles down the road? It was pretty cold out there at 5:30 A.M. The computer display gets distorted sometimes, especially in the lower third of the screen? Warps and bounces around a little? I Think the brightness of the SES light varies slightly at the same time, I THINK?

NAP TIME! <!-- attachments -->

Edited January 1, 2014 by Jerry Moriah (see edit history)

[padgett]

Heater working great is a good sign the flow is not blocked though those temps are too high for that kind of weather (mine sits on 179F on the road below 60F - 180F Stant SuperStat). That kind of mpg sounds like everything major is OK.

Thermostat is under the water neck at engine side of upper hose. It seals via an O'ring so make sure all surfaces are really clean before assembling and lever in with a force on top center, bolt is just to hold in place, not to seal, so tightening more than say a spark plug does nothing to help. I'd flush the system (with a garden hose if all that is available) then when completely drained add 1 gallon of pure antifreeze and fill rest of way with distilled water (84c/gal at Walmart).

Do you mean you never see the red (brake) light even when first starting in the morning ? Bulb may be burnt out, it should be on. ABS light coming on and going off is usually accompanied by a red light and boost system related, normally if an ABS problem, once it comes on it does not go off until you turn the car off.

Once you get all of the neglect caught up, they are very reliable, don't think I've done more to the 'vert (DD) this year than a freeze plug and changed the oil.

[Machiner 55]

Jerry,

I'm guessing the thermostat isn't opening all the way, or little at all. The heater works great! Ran the heat on high the whole trip kept temp down around 208 to 215 most of the time, WINDOW DOWN OF COURSE. Is the thermostat at the back of the upper radiator hose?

You mention that the previous owner was a woman/girl ("she"). If she was having work done at a garage/shop somewhere and they used the figure of the thermostat installation from the '88 Factory Service Manual, it's possible that the 'stat was installed upside-down. The figure in the manual is wrong.

Below you will find the figure from a '90 FSM. It shows the correct orientation.

One bolt holds the goose-neck containing the 'stat in place. A bit awkward to get at but doable.

Can I bleed / flush the front breaks myself???

In a word , yes. It's similar to bleeding any hydraulic system on most cars but since the '89 has a TEVES (TEEVES, rhymes with STEEVE'S) anti-lock brake system I suggest you become familiar with it's operation prior to tackling a brake bleed. You can perform a search on this forum or maybe better yet, check out this link to the Reatta Owners Journal (ROJ). There's a wealth of information and plenty of people there to answer questions such as yours.

Another source is here. At the home page, look at the menu on the left hand side of the page. Click the word "Documentation". At the bottom of that page is a form to fill out. Fill it out and click submit. In a few days or a week or so, you'll get the access info. Once you have those, you'll be able to view the online FSM's for your car. The FSM's are a must have item if you plan on performing your own work on your Reatta. It also helps other mechanic/technicians diagnose/work on your car.

It sound as though your CRT is on it's way out. There are vendors here that provide rebuild services as well as reconditioned units. Ebay is another source.

Happy New year and good luck with your new job and "new" car.

John F.

PS... you mentioned the color of the car is "blue". Is it the lighter blue (Maui Blue) or the darker Firemist) blue?

Edited January 1, 2014 by Machiner 55 (see edit history)

[Jerry Moriah]

The red brake light is working but does not come on when running or applying brakes, just the yellow anti lock. There is a slight glow bleeding over too the lights on both sides but not really lit up. Brake light lights bright during start check.

Thanks for diagram on thermostat, I would hate to replace the wrong way again!

I thought I read where the rear brakes could be bled normally, but the front brakes had to be power bled? I was just scanning through some stuff quickly after first look at car.

Must have picked something up on trip, front left tire flat as pancake this morning

Any ideas about instrument panel dark until warmed up?

Think I need to take something for my sugar headach, A LITTLE TOO MUCH RUM LAST NIGHT:o I tried to upload some pics but said too large. Whats the criteria or the best way to meet the guidelines

Thanks

[Jerry Moriah]

Does my dads 91 have the same diagnostic abilities, but different display? Or did they eliminate some of the diagnostic ability?

[Jerry Moriah]

And she's been repainted, the paint overlaps the rear window seal at the roof line, my dads is Maui blue, this is darker blue with white pin striping.

[bhclark]

I thought I read where the rear brakes could be bled normally, but the front brakes had to be power bled? I was just scanning through some stuff quickly after first look at car.

Thanks

I just flushed the brakes on my '90. I was amazed to find out that the rears basically bleed automatically, but the fronts are bled old school style.

The instructions are here

http://reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/64-suspension-a-brakes/brakes-mechanical/167-how-to-flush-bleed-brakes

[drtidmore]

The lower 1/3-1/2 of the CRT showing distortion is classic. There are a number of internal components in the CRT responsible for the issue. The good news is that the CRT is rebuildable and Eddy Voland (former GM tech who did rebuilds while a GM employee years ago) is in the business. There were a number of running design changes to the CRT system over the years of production and Eddy incorporates those into each rebuild, replaces all the components that age out as well as a few ICs that have newer versions with better lifespans . He charges $150 + shipping and has been doing this for years. There are other sources of rebuilt CRTs but they all charge significantly more and all you wind up with is a longer guarantee.

Eddy has an ebay buy-it-now posting up where you purchase the rebuild and then he sends you the shipping info. If you don't have a spare CRT (one of the recommended spares to have on hand), you will have to live without the CRT while Eddy rebuilds it, but he typically can turn a CRT around in around a week depending on his backlog. I presently have my original CRT up to Eddy for the exact same issue as you are describing and as soon as he completes the rebuild on my original, I am sending him my spare (same issue) for its rebuild.

[padgett]

Reatta's basically all have the same diagnostics (really the 88-89 is more flexible and easier to read). On the HVAC display press off and temp up at the same time. If done properly a light show should begin.

[Jerry Moriah]

Reatta's basically all have the same diagnostics (really the 88-89 is more flexible and easier to read). On the HVAC display press off and temp up at the same time. If done properly a light show should begin.

Yea, ive cleared the codes a couple of times and viewed the diagnostics instructions. But once past viewing the codes it pretty much looks like greek. Or at least a pretty steep learning curve. Hopefully I'll find the time to dig a little deeper.

JUST THE ABILITY TO EASILY PULL AND CLEAR THE CODES IS WORTH A LOT THOUGH