Mr. Anderson

The pass. side does get hot and cold just like the drivers side. I know the blend doors were bad for sticking on these lesabres and this is not the case here. On the control for the pass. side, nothing lights up when the hot or cold arrows are pressed. That is what led me to believe that I need a new pass. control. I don't believe that I have the automatic pull down option. I didn't know lesabres could get them; I thought it was a Park Avenue thing? As for the impact sensor, the frame is straight and nothing appears to have been jarred by an accident or anything else. Perhaps bad wiring or corrosion?

I recently bought a 2005 Buick LeSabre Limited with fairly low miles, and noticed that there are a couple of things that do not work. None of these affect the drivetrain, but just some things I wanted to ask about before acquiring parts:1. The Air Bag Light is on. My scanner says it is a front impact sensor. I will replace that soon.2. The Trunk will not open with the remote or the button on the drivers door. It will only open by manually opening from the rear with the key. You can hear the relay clicking under the back seat, so I am betting that I need a new actuator/motor in the trunk.3. The passenger climate controls on the pass. door do not do anything. The main climate control works fine with no issues. I am guessing that the controls on the door are bad and not the pass. door module since the window works. Other than that, the car runs and drives beautifully. I want to just confirm that these are the parts that I need to obtain for the car.Thanks for the input!

Well that about decides it for me. I have started the process of unhooking everything from the engine bay and will start looking for another engine. I will try to get a newer one as compared to an older one. Is there any way that I can get the oil pan off without having to have the engine in the floor? Pretty car, just wish I knew more on how to fix it.

I was recently given the opportunity to get a 2010 Buick Lacrosse CXS with a knocking engine for an excellent deal, and now I have the car! That being said, I know absolutely nothing about these modern cars! I am in need of some help going forward with this engine knock. Is there anyone here that has experience working on these cars? I really need to know how to remove the oil pan, and eventually how to separate the engine from the transmission.

Let me wrap this thread up after a long break. After finishing a very long semester at school, I bought a good used programmer from Jim Finn. I am pleased to say that the programmer was the problem all along, and now I have air coming out of the correct vents! Thanks to everyone for all their help with this issue!

I am in need of an HVAC Programmer for my 91 Reatta. I have a bad solenoid in the original one and am not technically minded enough to install new solenoids. If anyone has one for sale, please let me know. I believe the 89-91 Programmers are interchangeable. Thanks!

An update: I disconnected the vacuum lines from the bottom of the programmer and individually connected the engine vacuum line (black) to each of the color coded lines. When I connected to each individual one, the air was directed out of the appropriate vents (even out of the front vents when connected to blue). Would this result mean that I have a faulty programmer?

I believe what you are experiencing is the A/C system purge. This is normal for the car. When you first start up the car, the system will empty out any air it has in it, and shortly after, the programmer/BCM will command normal airflow.

Just got back and verified that I have a pretty good vacuum on the black line at the programmer. Also double checked the vacuum lines in the engine compartment and they are all in place and look good. Could I have a bad solenoid in the programmer?

If the evaporator were clogged, then wouldn't that mean that I would get no air flow through any vent, regardless of the position of the blend doors? I'm sure that it could use a good cleaning out, but I have pretty good flow through the defroster and floor vents. I also know that the blower itself is not an issue because it works at all of the different speeds, and the AUTO feature works as well.

Hi all! Haven't posted in some time due to trying to finish my music degree, but I still have been working on my 91 little by little and have finished everything except for paint and the no air out of the dash vents issue. Well today, I decided to set everything aside and go after the issue. In short, I have the bottom of the dash removed so I could look up at the clip attached to the blend doors thinking that it may be broken. However, it appears that it is still in one piece, but I still have no idea why I only get air out the defroster and floor vents. In diagnostics, the programmer checks out to be doing its job as the temperature arm moves properly and it appears to be commanding the doors to work, yet nothing changes. Also, the A/C works properly and has been converted to 134a. Am I now dealing with a vacuum issue or do I have a faulty valve?

Machiner 55, thank you for the information. No, not exactly what I wanted to hear, but that's ok, now at least I know. I may or may not return it, as I like to have plenty of spare parts on hand, you know, "just in case."

Late last week I was searching for the unobtainable intermediate parking brake cables in thinking that my reatta needed to have it replaced (thankfully it works, the ratchet just needs lubrication.) I found one at advancedauto.com after searching for part numbers on this forum. It only cost me a little over $30. It came in today and I wanted to verify with the more knowledgable people on here that it was the correct part. Below is a picture: It is about 33.5 inches in length, and shows some resemblance to the cable on the car now. If this is indeed correct, this can be an inexpensive repair as long as there are parts in stock.

I'm still working out all of the kinks with this 91, and although the big problems are taken care of, there are still little gremlins floating around in this car. This morning I was checking the parking brake and although it was working, the pedal would not retract very fast like it normally should. Upon visual inspection, the assembly is very corroded and dirty. I was wondering if there is anything that I need to lubricate in the parking brake assembly to help it to operate smoother?

John, I have been looking at that post for some time, hoping that the solution was something simple. Unfortunately, that is not the case (as nothing really is with these cars, lol.) I will probably tackle this after the car gets painted, or if I ever get a free day or two to take this task on. I have to ask, is it difficult to get those pieces cut out or can they be removed for the repair and then reinstalled?

Flushed the radiator, coolant, and the engine on Tuesday. Everything went well until I went to turn on the heater and never got any hot air through the vents. Checked the HVAC control arm and found that it was ok. I was thinking "well crap." I took the heater hoses lose from the engine and flushed the heater core out. You would not believe how nasty the water was on that first flush. I repeated this several times until I only got clean water. I reconnected everything, filled up the radiator with brand new 50/50 coolant, 'burped' all of the air out of the system, and all is well in the world. Now almost everything is finished with the car! I need to have it painted and fix the A/C so that it blows from something other than the defrost vent. I'm so excited for this car, and I never thought I would have got this far with it!! I can't wait to have it completed!!

Thank you all so much for your responses, they are really appreciated and helpful!! I tried today to go pick up the car for $1000 or $1500 and was turned down. The owner insists that it is worth the $3500 she is asking (and apparently that is down from the $6000 she originally wanted!!!!) Needless to say, I will not be pursuing the car unless a miracle happens with the price. Too bad though, it would've been a nice driver...

Hello everyone! I normally frequent the reatta forums but I have a question that is best asked here. I have stumbled upon a 1965 Buick Skylark 4D Sedan down the road from me that is being offered for sale. It is a two-owner car that has original paint,interior, and has a numbers matching drivetrain. It has 32000 original miles and was shut up in a garage for years. The person who last owned it recently passed away in March, and his neighbors are taking care of his estate and possessions. It has PS and PB with no A/C. The engine is a Wildcat 310 with a 1bbl carb. (I thought the 310 came with a 2bbl but I'm not sure.) I was also told that it had the 3 speed auto in it (possibly a Turbo 300 trans.) It runs pretty well and nothing leaks. Almost all of the lights work with the exception of a turn signal bulb. Here are a few pictures: (sorry, some do not orient like they should) My main question is: What is something like this actually worth? They are asking $3500 for the car. I think that it is a really neat car, but I don't know anything about the market for these mid 60's 4 door sedans. Thanks for your input.

Got the transmission fluid and filter replaced this afternoon! Ran out of time this evening to do the coolant and radiator flush, but this reatta really runs great now!

Time for an update again. Things got very busy over the last few weeks, so I had to put finishing the weatherstripping on the waitlist for a bit while I finished everything else. But over the last two days, I have accomplished a few things. 1) I have replaced the dreaded door ajar switch in the driver's door. It took me three hours to do it, but I finally got the stupid thing in place and fixed the constant "door ajar" warning on the IPC. 2) The driver's side window was not lined up properly in the regulator and was binding while going up or down. Through some careful maneuvering and cleaning of the window tracks, and probably some luck along the way, I have the window fairly well aligned with everything in the door and all is well. 3) I have repaired the weatherstripping around the front windshield. In a box in the trunk, I found that I had all of the pieces for a complete set of weatherstripping. I had already placed the side pieces in (the ones between the vent glass and windshield) so the large top and side covering was next. After I put the weatherstripping in, I had the aluminum cover for the bottom of the windshield installed (which I had already stripped and painted a flat black.) There was already a universal molding over the top of the windshield, so the long piece was placed in front and on top of the new molding. It was able to fit perfectly and covered any exposed seams created from the rest of the weatherstripping pieces. The adhesive of choice was 3M Quick Drying Weatherstripping Adhesive. I also used some clear caulk to fill in certain places (ex. where the long weatherstripping meets at a triangle at the corners of the windshield.) The 3M stuff is probably the best out there. It is very sticky and keeps everything right where you need it. The universal stuff that is on the top of the windshield is probably this: Flexline Windshield Auto Glass Universal Molding Flexible Trim Rubber 19mm 15 FT UM1913BR I had a few pieces that I was originally going to use to replicate the original look, but had no need to use them in the end since I had the originals. 4) The last thing I did was reassemble the windshield wiper arms and wipers. I was able to put everything on just fine, but the arms would not keep the wipers in contact with the windshield. My solution was to bend the arms just right to where everything lined up right. I used a table vice and some old paint stirrers to put leverage on the aluminum pieces. After everything was bent back into place, the wipers made contact through the entire cycle and everything works great! Next will be the remainder of fluid changes and then it is on to a new paint job!

Today I replaced the dreaded door ajar switch in my 91. It took almost three hours to do the job, and it was full of swearing and moving my hand upside-down and backwards to get the one bolt that holds the switch in place to cooperate. I have to say, I hope nobody has to go through with this replacement job because it is not fun at all. Not to mention that the sensor is in the only place that your hand cannot get to at all without dropping everything down the inner door. But thankfully, at the end of the day I have no more pesky "door ajar" warning on the IPC!! now on to finishing weatherstripping, and a new paint job here in a few weeks!

Use a stethoscope with a probe or a large screwdriver and put your ear to it and listen. A working injector will be clicking.

Make sure that when you are finished setting the option content numbers that you press and hold the HEATER and DEFROST buttons on the ECC for approx. 3 seconds. This will override the existing numbers stored in the BCM.

My 91's rims and two of the center caps are not in the best of shape. Are the 1991 style rims painted aluminum or clear coated aluminum? I seem to recall something about them being painted with a kind of silver paint posted not too long ago. If they are indeed painted, can someone give me the paint code so that I can respray my rims and center caps? Also, if they are clear coated, am I able to wet sand and reapply clear coat without many issues? Thanks in advance!

Day two of weatherstripping is underway. Today's task: Door Jamb areas beside the windshield and vent glass. I am only doing one section a day to allow the adhesive to dry for a full day.