Door window glass channel

[sweetpotato]

Does the window glass have to come out to replace the glass channel on the door windows ? Bob

[sweetpotato]

Does the window glass have to come out to replace the glass channel on the door windows ? Bob

Sorry, forgot to say my car is a 53 special 4door.

[beerczar1976]

I believe if you are referring just to the "fuzzie" line track around the sides and top...not necessarily. If you are referring to the metal channel that holds the "fuzzies" on the front and rear side of the glass, then yes, it makes it easier... I guess it depends on exactly which part you're referring to. I re-did all my 4 doors over the summer on a '50 Special Deluxe.

[sweetpotato]

I am referring only to the "fuzzy" channel, not the metal that it fits into . Two sides and top and it is one piece. I got the new stuff but haven't tried pulling the old out yet.

[beerczar1976]

Again, this is all based off of a '50 Special, but I'm thinking the process should be pretty close for yours.

If I remember correctly, then no, you shouldn't have to remove the glass from the door, just lower it all the way. Mine was 3 pieces. One for the top and separate front and rear sides. Once you take the inside door window trim off (should be just the part that surrounds the window, and not the whole lower door panel), you should be able to pull the old fuzzy channel out of the "track"/channel that it sits in. Where yours in one piece, you'll probably want to do so carefully so that you can copy the bend locations of the old piece, though the fuzzy channel does bend pretty easy. The clips that hold the fuzzy channel into the door frame will probably be salvageable unless rusted away. Mine were almost a modified S shaped and had prongs that stuck into the backside of the fuzzy channel. I wasn't able to find exact replacements but Rubber the Right Way, and I think Bob's or CARS, sells some that will do the job. I also didn't worry too much about jamming the prongs back through the channel or re-cementing the fuzzy channel back into the front/rear door channels. It all seems to hold itself together pretty well, and as long as your glass doesn't bind in the fuzzy, it shouldn't end up moving from where you put it.

If you find that the fuzzy channel is in too tightly to the metal tracks at the bottom ends of the front and rear sides to pull out from between the channel and glass, then remove the lower door panel. You should then be able to see where the door channel goes down inside the door and it will have an adjustment bolt at the bottom that will have a nut on the end of it. Loosen the nut, and the door channel should then be able to move left and right, and in and out. You might want to mark the location/setting of how the nut was originally on there so you don't have to do to much re-aligning after you put the new fuzzies in place.

If you're still stuck, let me know and I can e-mail you a scan from the '49 Fisher Body Manual (I believe the Body Manual wasn't produced again until the mid-fifties). If I remember correctly, the Shop Manual may detail the procedure as well.

[sweetpotato]

Thanks for all that. I looked at it closely this afternoon and it looks like the fuzzy channel is riveted to the guide channel against the vent window assembly so it looks like that assembly will have to come out to derivet the old and rivet the new , otherwise it looks like you describe it. Bob

[beerczar1976]

Bob, Sorry to hear that. I think the assembly plants in some cases might have done "their own thing", and perhaps all the '53s are riveted... I've also seen where the fuzzies along the molding at the bottom of the window frame were stapled by some factories, and screwed in by other factories. I'm still trying to re-align my front window vents after putting them back into the car. (Prior owner(s) disassembled to paint, but gave up on project). I think the key with my front vents is that I haven't tried putting the wind/rain deflectors back in, these may take up some of the gap problems that I have right now. These pieces weren't repainted so they are the original Geneva Green whereas my '50's now a deep red pearl color.

Good luck! I'm willing to help as much as I can. I think in many cases the '50-'53 4-doors, maybe with the exception of the Riviera series, were relatively still the same car. I've also got the Chassis and Body Parts Manuals, so if you're looking for a cross-reference to a piece down the road, let me know.

[old-tank]

....do so carefully so that you can copy the bend locations of the old piece....

Don't try to bend free-hand...take the glass out and bend around the glass, or at least make a pattern of the bend and duplicate on 1/8 +/- board.

[sweetpotato]

Thanks to all for the help on this. BTW today I picked up a box of parts I had chromed at Metro Plating in Mesa. Beautiful stuff! The top bar of the grill with the indented BUICK letters is especially nice. Trying to convince my wife to let me hang it in the living room as additional Christmas decor.

[retirednow]

I second that!

Thanks to all for the help on this. BTW today I picked up a box of parts I had chromed at Metro Plating in Mesa. Beautiful stuff! The top bar of the grill with the indented BUICK letters is especially nice. Trying to convince my wife to let me hang it in the living room as additional Christmas decor.

[421-6speed]

Don't try to bend free-hand...take the glass out and bend around the glass, or at least make a pattern of the bend and duplicate on 1/8 +/- board.

old-tank is correct. Follow his advise...