Quick Rear Strut Question

[ol' yeller]

If I replace the rears and bushings only, do I still need to do a 4 wheel alignment?

[DAVES89]

Why are you not replacing the front struts at the same time?

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

Correct answer yes, but I would not worry about it too much. Just a suggestion. Fire stone offers a lifetime alignment for under 150. I would not use them for anything else but I have used mine over 20 times.

[ol' yeller]

Thanks guys. Actually I am replacing the fronts now and then the rears later for financial reasons. My fronts are leaking, the rears are not. I plan to have the 4 way alignment after I did the fronts and didn't want to pay for another when I do the rears in few months. I'll probably take it to Les Schwab for the alignment but I'll check out Firestone too.

[Ronnie]

I don't mean to sound argumentative and I'm probably going to make myself look foolish for saying this but...

When I look in the FSM at the photos of how the rear strut is mounted, (which only amounts to a shock absorber - it carries no weight), I don't see how changing out the rear strut would effect wheel alignment. I don't say that with any certainty because I have not had the strut completely out myself. I've had the top of the rear strut loose on my car and it didn't effect the alignment

The wheel alignment for the rear is adjusted by moving the lower control arm in a slotted hole to change the "toe alignment". I see no other mention of adjusting the alignment on the rear. It would seem that if the lower control arm is set for the correct amount of toe before the strut is replaced it would still be correct after replacing the strut.

If you refer to Woody's instructions, (Rear Strut Replacement Instructions,) you can see that the rear strut is mounted much like a shock absorber. It has a threaded rod with a nut at the top that is non-adjustable, and the bottom of the strut slides into a hole in the knuckle and is held in place with a pinch bolt that clamps the knuckle to the strut. Where the strut goes through the hole in the knuckle it is keyed so it can't be positioned wrong or adjusted.

[ol' yeller]

Thanks Ronnie. That was my initial thought but as I am somewhat addlebrained these days due to a head cold, I thought I'd ask. The vert has been taking some significant shots at the old wallet lately, $1150 for AC work, $100 for trans flush and new gasket and filter, $350 to replace half the freeze plugs, and today, I replaced the front brake pads and rotors. for a cost of $65(parts). I am still looking at replacing the front struts and mounts $250 for parts which I have bought, and a brake flush as well as some cosmetic stuff before the National in Portland next July. The rear struts are going to have to wait. I'm not complaining as I love my vert after 2 beautiful summers when the top was down almost every day. It is still much cheaper than car payments. After this, I should be OK for awhile. Fingers crossed.

[Ronnie]

When you do the rear struts be sure you have some of Daniel's sway bar bushings on hand so you can install them at the same time if needed.