Tech questioin about ignition switch

[RivNut]

I have the instrument panel pulled from my '64 in order to do some wiring and other interior work. I also have an appt. to have some mechanical work done on the car toward the end of the week. Here's my question: Do I need to reinstall the complete instrument panel and connect all the gauges, etc. in order to start the car so it's drivable OR can I just pull the ignition switch from the instrument panel and connect it by itself to make the car drivable? I only need it drivable to get it from one place to two others. Nothing more than a couple of miles.

Thanks,

Ed

[RIVNIK]

Frankly, Ed, I don't really know the answer to that one. I just hate to see you sit there so long waiting for someone to reply. That would drive me crazy! So I'm breaking the ice to wish you good luck. #4675

[Guest DRM500RUBYZR1]

Frankly, Ed, I don't really know the answer to that one. I just hate to see you sit there so long waiting for someone to reply. That would drive me crazy! So I'm breaking the ice to wish you good luck. #4675

I hate the wait as well.

I cannot think of any scenario that would prevent the car from starting and running while all dash wiring is unplugged other than the ignition switch.

Had I stayed at a Holiday Inn I would have answered with more authority and expertise.

The only thing that had me wondering would be the circuit for amps / volts charging, but I do not believe that circuit requires completion to start and run.

I too wish you luck, but am fairly convinced that it will be fine.

Marty

[RivNut]

Thanks guys,

I need to get it to the shop by next Monday. I've been looking at wiring diagrams and such and can't see anything critical running through the amp gauge or anything like that. My wife decided to have a party this weekend so there's lots of Honey-do's to do as well as getting some finishing touches put on some old Schwinn bikes that I have so that I can take them to a swap meet on Sunday. Why did everything have to come to a head on the same weekend? At least Linda does her own painting after I get the spakling done and everything masked. Two weeks ago it was the dining room; last week the hallway, this week the bathroom. She paints; I tinker with old cars and old bikes; I order in pizza. Life is sweet.

Ed

[Jim Cannon]

The instrument panel does not need to be installed to drive. There is nothing critical there that current flows through. It is all indicator lights and such.

You can run with the ignition switch just hanging from the wiring harness, if you want.

Just watch for posts on the back of the switch not grounding out on anything. Half of your fuse block gets power through the switch, so there is a lot of potential current there.

If I was to change one thing on a 1st gen Riv, I would put the feed for those fuses through a big relay and have the ignition switch only handle the current required to energize the relay. You may have noticed after driving a while that the switch gets hot. That is all the current going to the fuse block for everything that goes off when you turn the key off (A/C, heater, wipers, radio, etc.).

[RivNut]

Jim,

Thanks for the comments. I'll wrap the back side of the switch so there will be no possibility of shorting something out.

Come up with what you think would be the best parts (relay) and a wiring schematic and I'll see what I can come up with when I put it back together.

Ed

[68RIVGS]

I drove my '68 for a long while, without any instrument cluster, while the interior was being refurbished Ed - just ensure none of the harness 'hot' wires can short out on metal portions of the dash opening. No need to remove the ignition switch, if it mounts seperate from the '64 instrument cluster.

Edited July 23, 2013 by 68RIVGS (see edit history)