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crank hole plug problem


R.White

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Before getting in too deep, I thought I would try and clean up the threads. As a 16 tpi 3/8" Whitworth tap is such a close match to the UNF I mounted one in a tool post and with one pass the threads were restored.

Although not perfect, there is enough contact to enable the plug to be tightened. Hope it lasts.

Job done.

My sincere thanks for all the excellent contributions from you guys. It's what makes this a great forum.

Ray.

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Too True!

The pictures don't show the threads very well but they are quite a bit deeper than they appear. Also, I think the very slight difference in pitch (5degrees) between the two parts actually works to make the mating surfaces a better fit.

The sleeve is now back on the car and hopefully there will be no more oil leaks in future.

I visited the auto electrician who is working on my starter motor; progress is being made there too so not a bad day. Not bad at all.:)

Ray.

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Thanks Mike. The lathe was originally treadle operated but was converted to electric and completely modernised by the previous owner who was a steam and model engineering enthusiast. It's a 1921 model M Drummond made in Guildford, Surrey. It is 100% accurate but could really do with a repaint now.

Ray.

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Sorry I haven't replied to you Ray as I have been away on business. I am home to celebrate the 4th! "No taxation without representation!"

I see you have been "Creative" in machining the threads. I would highly recommend that you use a small boring bar with a thread tip than use a tap! The reason is because a tap is very brittle and could shatter. A boring bar is much more forgiving. That photo scares me to death!

Love the old Lathe! Unfortunately today's tooling is designed for thousands of RPM's instead of hundreds.

Be safe!

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