55 SPECIAL POWER STEERING GEAR BOX LEAK

[TexasJohn55]

Here is a question for you. I rebuilt my steering box because it was leaking power steering fluid into the gear box. All went by the book on rebuild, fairly straight forward repair. Back in the car,(R&I is no simple chore!) and steering works great as before but I have a leak at the rack shim plate, leaking gear oil around shims. I did use sealer on the 4 plate bolts that go into the cavity. I looks to be leaking at the shim pack. I did shim it by feel until slack was taken out and lightly increased torque required to turn steering input. HAS ANYONE EVER EXPERIENCED THIS LEAK? I have not pulled it back off yet but the plate did not appear to be warped and shouldn't have been set up that tight originally to warp it or it would have locked up the steering. Help me out here. TexasJohn55

Edited June 8, 2013 by TexasJohn55 (see edit history)

[old-tank]

HAS ANYONE EVER EXPERIENCED THIS LEAK?

Yep! On one car (original box) I slowed the leak by using some heavy grease as a gasket sealer. On the two I have rebuilt, I used anaerobic sealer.

Willie

[TexasJohn55]

Yep! On one car (original box) I slowed the leak by using some heavy grease as a gasket sealer. On the two I have rebuilt, I used anaerobic sealer.

Willie

Thanks Willie, now that I know that it is not uncommon, I will do just that. Any other readers comments would also be welcomed. TexasJohn

[Fr. Buick]

Please explain anaerobic sealer?

[old-tank]

Please explain anaerobic sealer?

For your reading pleasure: https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=anaerobic+sealer+permatex&sourceid=opera&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&channel=suggest#client=opera&hs=LkC&channel=suggest&sclient=psy-ab&q=anaerobic+sealer&oq=anaerobic+sealer&gs_l=serp.3..0l3j0i22i30.29024.29024.0.29370.1.1.0.0.0.0.68.68.1.1.0...0.0...1c.1.11.psy-ab.5rDV-7yooYE&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.45645796,d.b2I&fp=276fbfaffbc24791&biw=1025&bih=868

One of my favorite products; it goes on like silicone sealer, but any that squeezes out can be wiped up right away or later without affecting later painting. Only what is clamped between two parts hardens; it does not take up space like a gasket. I use it on gasket and threads in addition to using alone to form a gasket.

Willie

[TexasJohn55]

Aerobic sealants set up and seal in the presence of, when exposed to air, hence aerobic. Anaerobic sealers cure in the absence of air instead, hence an-aerobic. You don't have to worry about them curing until the parts are assembled. TexasJohn

[Fr. Buick]

Thanks, all!

[Guest 55SuperBuick]

A question on your rebuild of the box - which book did you refer to? The Buick manual? We need to embark on this rebuild ourselves and being in Australia the parts and knowledge are hard to come by.

[TexasJohn55]

Yes sir! Followed the Buick Shop Manual for my '55. It is a pain to remove and install because the steering shaft is integral to the steering gear box. You must remove the steering column. I found it easiest to remove the vent air box from the firewall for better access also. The worst problem was not the rebuild of the steering box, it was the column. The horn wire in the column is soldered to the slip ring which is rubber mounted on the steering shaft which has a spring loaded brush mounted to the column with a ground wire for the horn relay. I destroyed my slip ring in the process and it split in several places. It also has to be pressed on the steering shaft at the correct location for it to match up with the window and brush on the column. I managed to make a new one out of some brass tubing and new rubber collar to insulate it from the column. It was a tedious job but it works fine. Follow your book and be very careful not to destroy yours. I found it all but impossible to pull the switch and wiring harness out of the column due to the age and stiffness of the wires, so I didn't go there. The steering box build is fairly straight forward. Mine was leaking the steering fluid into the gear box and overflowing out the vent. The shaft seal on the power rack was leaking and the shaft itself was pitted. Luckily I had a spare donor system to get a good shaft. I also had one of the small reaction/centering springs broken that I had to replace as well. The seals are available individually and the orings can be matched up but you may not have the availability that we do in Dallas Texas. and you will have to make some thin gaskets. Once you get the drag and clearances set up, use anaerobic sealer on your shims, they are metal and don't seal well and will seep gear oil if you don't. If you don't have resources to buy individual parts, maybe you can find a rebuild kit. Just follow your book and be gentle with the column and the fabric bearings. It would be a good idea to mark the location of the column as it has some latitude for moving it up and down. I would also recommend that you do not remove the forward mounting cap for the box, just loosen it sufficiently to wiggle the box out. It is a real bear to remount the box by yourself as well. Match-mark both frame mounts and caps so you can put them back exactly as they were, where they were if you decide to remove them. preferably with a paint pen or stamping. Good luck and take your time.

Edited June 22, 2013 by TexasJohn55 (see edit history)

[old-tank]

More on my website:

Low tech tips for mid 50

horncontact

If it has the original horn contact, it probably already has splits and will soon shred...change it when you have access. Other ways to replace the sleeve are copper/brass plumbing parts or machine from stock.

Willie

[Guest 55SuperBuick]

Thanks for the responses - greatly appreciated.

When we rewired the old girl we had the column out at that point so have managed to jump that hurdle and know what we're in for at that end.