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Swapping out a water pump on a '40


FLYER15015

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O.K. so this just might be a dumb question but has anybody out there in Buick land ever swapped out their water pump on a '40 Buick WITHOUT pulling the hood and radiator ?

I have a slick way to hang the fan when it's time to put her back together, that was addressed in another thread, so that's not an issue. Hoses and thermostat don't seem to be a concern either.

I guess my question really is, can you get the bolts out that are holding the H2O pump on, without pulling the radiator ? How long are they ?

Anybody that's been there/ done that can chime in now.

And a very Merry Christmas to all,

Mike in Colorado

:):):)

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Mike -

I think the procedure in the shop manual calls for pulling the fan and water pump before removing the radiator, so I think the answer to your question is yes. I asked earlier this year if it was possible to pull the radiator without pulling the pump and was told no - you need that 2 or 3 inches to tilt the radiator rearward enough to get it out.

Cheers, Dave

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Dave,

Last spring I pulled the radiator by removing the hood, pulling the fan only and lifted the radiator out with a rope over the rafters. Replaced the stock fan with a Hayden 6 bladed stainless flex fan, for much better cooling up here @ 8500ft.

I should have done the pump then. But who thinks of those things.

This spring, or if we have our usual mid winter thaw, I'm hoping to replace the pump, in preparation for spring touring runs. I know it is "origional" and having a "tight" fan belt for a couple of runs, I thought I heard a squeal last time out. Just don't want to get stranded.

Mike in Colorado

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Guest gossir00

Mike,

i pulled mine ( out of '40 Special) without removing the radiator. I thought toughest part was the removal/re-install of the fan blade eg lining up bolts in a tight space. Once I got the fan off easy to get to and remove water pump bolts which are about 3 and 1/2 inches long. Had to fabricate the pump gasket since the one sold by a well known Buick parts supplier did not fit. The other tough part was the connector hose from the pump to the the thermostat housing. It was old/worn and needed to be replaced. Had to custom fit a piece of hose because of tight fit and flanges. I could not find a vendor who sold a correct fitting connector hose.

Good luck.

Rick G.

BCA #45471

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BigDog,

Yes, once you get the fan out, the radiator will tilt back far enough to slip up and out without removing the shroud. I taped a piece of cardboard to the rear face to protect the fins, and used a rope up over the rafter, and with a helper guided it up and out. Reinstalled the same way.

To replace the fan, I sharpened a stud and screwed it into the pump flange, dialed it to the bottom and hung the fan on the stud and pilot hole, and inserted 3 bolts, unscrewed, the stud and put the 4th bolt in. Went really fast. The carboard protector was as much for the hands as the radiator fins.

Rick,

Yes I know I'll have to fabricate that big connector hose, and I'll take this opportunity to clean all the old crud off the timing cover, and replace the heater hoses etc.

Mike in Colorado

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Guest Grant Magrath

I don't know much about 1940's, but the radiator doesn't have to come out of a 39 to get the water pump out. As Rick says, the toughest part was putting the fan back on and lining the bolts up. Then you can treat your skinned knuckles from the radiator fins!

Cheers

Grant

PS Just read your post properly Mike. Love the cardboard idea! Buggar the fins, it saves my skin!

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When working on the fan/water pump...tape a piece of thin cardboard (cereal box) against the back of the radiator. This protects the radiator fins from bumping them with the fan etc and really helps with the knuckle cuts.

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