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fender welt 1936


rlcokc

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Getting ready to put fenders on and want to know what source for fender welt and size. Looks like the bead should be 3/16" and width not that important so long as long enough for bolts to go through. Question is really who sells and what looks the best. I will not be painting the fender welt and can't really locate the "replacement". What have you guys used? Thanks

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Restoration Specialties in Pa (814-467-9842) has the original type laquered cloth fenderwelt. Your car should probably use a 1/4 in . bead and it is paintable if desired. Available in running lengths. Give 'em a call 9Am - 5PM EST. Jim

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When applying fender welt don't forget to use the technique used at the factory. That would be cutting "^" shaped notches at intervals all along the length of the curve (not into the bead of course). This is an upholsterers trick that will allow one to follow the curve of the fender without the welt bunching up.

Thanks,

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Thanks to all--I know to cut the triangle to make it fit just not sure I'm artistic/skilled enough to make it fit and look good. May have to buy some extra length. If there is a best method let me know. Kinda thought I might try to make a pattern out of cardboard.

Rod

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Guest Grant Magrath

You'll be fine. There are plenty of more difficult jobs! If the tail is long enough to pull from behind, everything fits nicely. If you're uncertain about where to notch it, make straight cuts first, then sit the welt in place loosely between the guard and body, you can see where you will have to notch it.

Cheers

Grant

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rlcokc- I have installed many over the past years and have always made one cut, not a triangle. Then when fitting it to the body let the slits overlap and when you get the proper curve to satisfy yourself use a common paper stapler and fasten the slit so it can't move. This will be buried underneath/over the body fender line. Also punch your mounting holes large so you may move it around to closely conform to to the body just before the final tightening. On the end that shows I also cut a 1/4" slot at right angles to the welt and back about about an 1" from the end. Then fold the 1" end to a 90degree right angle and again staple. There should not be a raw cord end showing. If you can get them, an extra pair of hands will be helpful. Good luck on your project! --Bob

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Thanks for the help. Like your idea so the cord doesn't show--I had actually wondered how to tackle that problem. I've ordered the welt from Restoration Specialties and will tackle next weekend.

Curious what you guys have used to punch the holes? I have a punch but not sure it has punch big enough?

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If you don't have a punch large enough ,you can make one by sharpening a small piece of steel pipe the right diameter on a grinder.I also have used the fender welt for an antisqueek material and it is easily cut with a razor blade too. The modern material has a plastic cord not twisted paper like the original! You have to watch, there is some welting being sold that is made from a material that's similar to naugahyde and looks crappy,that's why I recommended R.S as they have the correct material.

Edited by jpage (see edit history)
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