Some questions on Desoto deluxe coupe with rumble seat produced in 1928

[Guest RamblinRumble]

This is just a few of the general questions which have been cooking in the back of my mind for years. They specifically concern a Desoto built in 1928, but are of a somewhat more general nature concerning cars of the era.

1) I can't identify the wood used in door frames, etc. It is of a soft, creamy consistency that seems to lack a grain structure--say, in comparison to the hickory of top bows. Back in the 1960s, I replaced pieces of it with spruce. Like so many of my poorly-done things back then, I'd now like to 'do it right', now. What wood(s) should I use?

2) Lovejoy shocks use a strap to connect between the frame and the arm of the shock. I've never seen the straps advertised. Mine are all ripped and rotted. Anyone know of a source? Also, what would be a good way to test the shocks to see if they are working properly? Same with the arch of the leaf springs.

3) Andy Bernbaum stocks wheel cylinders which are a perfect fit, even though rated for a '30'. But what of a master cylinder? They have not replied as yet to my drawings and inquiries. The original cylinder is a soft iron casting. In handling it as a dumb kid, one of the three mounting ears was broken off. (By the way, dumbness hasn't improved with age!) And while still usable, it is also quite pitted. Can anyone suggest a more modern (and safer) dual-cylinder replacement that wouldn't look TOO out of place and would take a minimum of alteration? If I have to do so for esthetics or otherwise and have it sleeved and rebuilt, does anyone have any suggestions as to 'whom'? I also expect this brake work to be done over a several-year period. (Possibly to be again taken up after I'm gone). Knowing how corrosive glycerin/methanol is, what of 'silicone-based' brake fluids? Please suggest and comment.

4) Taking the advice of a friend in the 60s, I had much chroming redone. However, cracks in the brass weren't repaired-and even worse- the radiator shell was ground through and destroyed in numerous places. I started banging out/silver soldering together a less-than-satisfactory copy from brass (should have used softer and more-easily annealed copper, but am still learning). The unsatisfactory 3/4 done job still mocks my efforts, and the oxyacetylene burps at me disparagingly every time I walk by. Oh, how lovely a NOS shell would be! Short of this impossibility, any hints/suggestions?

5) In naive dumbness, shortly after having the DELCO third-brush generator rebuilt and having set the third-brush for 15+ amps, the 'cutout' welded together and caused a slight bowing to the battery! Does anyone have a diagram for a solid-state regulator I could hide under the small cover of my cutout?

There are even more questions than these, but since I'd hate to bore your collective patience even further, I'll hold them off. My dear-but-philistine Cassy (I've been married to her since 1977, while I've been married to the Desoto since 1965) has a simple solution: Get rid of the old piece of junk and spend the money on ME!

Somehow, I hopelessly love both TOO MUCH to think of permanent separation. So for now, I need some help and advice. Thank you for the unearned patience!

This is just a few of the general questions which have been cooking in the back of my mind for years. They specifically concern a Desoto built in 1928, but are of a somewhat more general nature concerning cars of the era.

1) I can't identify the wood used in door frames, etc. It is of a soft, creamy consistency that seems to lack a grain structure--say, in comparison to the hickory of top bows. Back in the 1960s, I replaced pieces of it with spruce. Like so many of my poorly-done things back then, I'd now like to 'do it right', now. What wood(s) should I use?

2) Lovejoy shocks use a strap to connect between the frame and the arm of the shock. I've never seen the straps advertised. Mine are all ripped and rotted. Anyone know of a source? Also, what would be a good way to test the shocks to see if they are working properly? Same with the arch of the leaf springs.

3) Andy Bernbaum stocks wheel cylinders which are a perfect fit, even though rated for a '30'. But what of a master cylinder? They have not replied as yet to my drawings and inquiries. The original cylinder is a soft iron casting. In handling it as a dumb kid, one of the three mounting ears was broken off. (By the way, dumbness hasn't improved with age!) And while still usable, it is also quite pitted. Can anyone suggest a more modern (and safer) dual-cylinder replacement that wouldn't look TOO out of place and would take a minimum of alteration? If I have to do so for esthetics or otherwise and have it sleeved and rebuilt, does anyone have any suggestions as to 'whom'? I also expect this brake work to be done over a several-year period. (Possibly to be again taken up after I'm gone). Knowing how corrosive glycerin/methanol is, what of 'silicone-based' brake fluids? Please suggest and comment.

4) Taking the advice of a friend in the 60s, I had much chroming redone. However, cracks in the brass weren't repaired-and even worse- the radiator shell was ground through and destroyed in numerous places. I started banging out/silver soldering together a less-than-satisfactory copy from brass (should have used softer and more-easily annealed copper, but am still learning). The unsatisfactory 3/4 done job still mocks my efforts, and the oxyacetylene burps at me disparagingly every time I walk by. Oh, how lovely a NOS shell would be! Short of this impossibility, any hints/suggestions?

5) In naive dumbness, shortly after having the DELCO third-brush generator rebuilt and having set the third-brush for 15+ amps, the 'cutout' welded together and caused a slight bowing to the battery! Does anyone have a diagram for a solid-state regulator I could hide under the small cover of my cutout?

There are even more questions than these, but since I'd hate to bore your collective patience even further, I'll hold them off. My dear-but-philistine Cassy (I've been married to her since 1977, while I've been married to the Desoto since 1965) has a simple solution: Get rid of the old piece of junk and spend the money on ME!

Somehow, I hopelessly love both TOO MUCH to think of permanent separation. So for now, I need some help and advice. Thank you for the patience!

[ply33]

This is just a few of the general questions which have been cooking in the back of my mind for years. They specifically concern a Desoto built in 1928, but are of a somewhat more general nature concerning cars of the era.

...

5) In naive dumbness, shortly after having the DELCO third-brush generator rebuilt and having set the third-brush for 15+ amps, the 'cutout' welded together and caused a slight bowing to the battery! Does anyone have a diagram for a solid-state regulator I could hide under the small cover of my cutout?

...

Can't help with most of your questions, but with respect to the voltage regulator, I wrote up what I did at: 1933 Plymouth Voltage Regulator Upgrade

Guesses on other questions:

If your master cylinder is like the slightly later ones, you can still get a single master cylinder new that will bolt on. It looks a bit different from the early '30s ones so a judge that knows what they are looking at will deduct. There is an image of the later master cylinder at Plymouth Parts Interchange: Group 5 — Brake — Service If you have the older style with the remote reservoir then I'm not sure what you can do other than find a correct one and, if necessary, have it re-sleeved. On Plymouth and maybe on DeSoto, the interior parts for the master cylinder seem to be the same for '28 through at least 1935 so a later rebuild kit will probably work for you if you can find a good casting.

Shocks: If they are holding liquid and have good resistance on the downward motion they are probably acceptable. There are a few places like Apple Hydraulic that can rebuild them. I would not be surprised if the people who rebuild them would know were to get the webbing. Mine use metal rods to connect the arms to the axles so this was not an area I looked into.

[keiser31]

I believe the wood is kiln dried white ash. There will be other opinions.

[Rusty_OToole]

Ash was the most common wood used in body construction. It sounds like yours has grown punky with age. I don't think they ever expected that car to last longer than 10 years, if that.

[Guest RamblinRumble]

Re: Some questions on Desoto deluxe coupe with rumble seat produced in 1928: My thanks to all of you who replied.

To ply33, I've sent an inquiry to James Peterson. I also both enjoyed and appreciate your vendor list and plan to use it. In regard to the master cylinder, the reservoir is a 'tin can' mounted to the fire wall. The picture you showed looks like roughly the same master cylinder, except with an intrinsic reservoir. I'm 'kicking around' the idea of obtaining one of these, but then having mine resleeved. The shocks have held oil. I shall try attaching a lever to check them. One of my other questions on 'silicone brake fluids'-stability, longetivity, etc. I hope will be answered by a subsequent reader.

To Keiser31 and Rusty O'Toole: Ash is a logical choice.I pictured something like basswod, which would be too soft. Around here, there are firewood transporting bans to slow the spread of emerald ash borer. (Didn't Franklin use laminated ash and angle iron as their frame well into the 20s?) For some dumb reason, I never thought of the wood growing punky. Wouldn't it be neat if we could somehow reconstitute it--say, 'pressure-cooking' it with epoxy in a way analagous to how wooden 'wringer washer' "wringer roll wooden bearings" were impregnated with oil?

To all of you, thanks for the patience in dealing with a tyro's fat-fingered typos-I used a laptop for PLC programming and machine troubleshooting for years, but resisted getting one for myself until recently. You can see by the 'doubling' of my letter the 'expert' use of copying and pasting. And, by the way, didn't the PA or PB have a vacuum assisted clutch? I think I remember Dad speaking of one of his older brothers horsing around with one. (I think the 'horsing around' was in the nature of how a student/car-dealer friend of Dad's was demoing a 30s Hudson to him. It had an 'H' patterned "switch" on the column. You were SUPPOSED to unscrew and remove the floor shift. However "DeHaven" left it attached to 'whack' its way through the gears while flipping the little column switch. Imagine if someone's knee were in the way? OSHA, where were you?<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[Guest martylum]

Hi-I've owned a 30 CK Desoto roadster for many years and it's almost identiical to the parts on a 29 K model. On the medium priced cars of that era different kinds of hardwood were used-ash would have been more likely used in higher priced cars. If your wood has no noticeable pores in the surface it might be poplar or maple. Ash is certainly a better choice for replacement from a structural standpoint . In 1930 models the master cylindr has a self contained fluid reservoir and would probably bolt on in place of the original master with the remote reservoir.

Restoration Specialties has the woven shock link material for your single action shocks. 30 models have double action shocks with metal links. a nice improvement over the 29 models.

Not quite sure what y0u mean about the "bowing to the battery" but new original style cutouts available from any model A Ford parts vendor as are a number of other hardware items for your Desoto.

Getting stuck with a hamfisted chrome plater who refinishes with a grinding wheel is most unfortunate. Sounds like you need to look for a good radiator shell core and a good chrome plater. I've been happy with my guys for over 20 years but they are expensive. The chrome on my 30 model CK was done more than 20 years ago and polishes up beautifully.

Good luck on your restoration.

Martin Lum

1930 Desoto CK