Guest Mochet Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 Is linoleum always glued down when covering floorboards and running boards? I'm thinking it would be easier to just hold it on with the metal edging, especially should I ever want to get at the carriage bolts underneath.Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete K. Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 As I really see your point about getting at "things" at a later date and having to fight the glue that could be put down to secure the linoleum, I would worry about water getting under the linoleum and never drying out, getting really moldy or even rotting the base in a short time. I've read the back of the can of 3-m spray glue and it does mention the fact how to apply it for temporary bonding, by spraying only ONE surface to be bonded instead of BOTH, for a permanent bond. I suppose it also depends on your decision, whether you've got deep margin edge moulding to hold it securely all the way around and can guarantee it'll never get wet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 The old battleship lino was not glued down in houses. I have removed it and found underneath, old newspapers used as underlay, no glue. Why not try it without glue, if it doesn't work you can glue it down but I don't see why you would need to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Friartuck Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 The instructions for battleship Linoleum as I remember call for a mastic adhesive to be used, troweled at something like 1/16 X 1/16. When pressure is applied and rolled out it makes a thin layer between the surface and the burlap fibers. IMO, a peice of unglued linoleum may bubble in the middle when in the hot sun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bamford Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 We glued the battleship lino on my KisselKar running and floorboards about 15 years ago, with, IIRC, contact cement. There has been zero problem or bubbling since and the car has seen plenty of sun and a number of soakings.Would suggest use of "elevator bolts" instead of carriage bolts — they have a flat, large diameter head (something like 1" dis for a 1/4" shank) and mount them dead flush with the top of the running board wood so that ghost images/depressions will not form in the lino. Would also suggest marine plywood for the running boards to forestall any possibility of rot etc.We had to take a board off last month to repair a broken bracket — the elevator bolts held position and did not turn as the nuts were removed from below. We may have epoxied the bolt heads in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 I finally attached my floorboard linoleum. At first, I tried regular linoleum paste, but that didn't work too well, I think due to the unevenness of the floor (ie; lots of carriage bolt heads). I then used a hot glue gun, and that worked well. Of course, I had to get the linoleum down before the glue set. I used a "HiPur" glue gun which is available from Woodworkers Supply and other places. This gun system has various hot glues that give you up to 5 minutes working time. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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