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BobD735

1920 Chalmers Restoration

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For some reason, I was not able to identify the two lower photos in my last post. The one on the left is a closeup of the end cut operation, after being worked in the radial arm saw. The other photo shows an example of a pattern made from the remains of the outside upper edge of the front seat. From that pattern, both the left and right hand parts were fabricated.

Bob

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When I'm designing my fixtures, I try to imagine how Pattern Makers and Designers back in the early days, who worked at the body making companies, approaced these challenges, using the equipment they had at the time.

As a footnote, I discovered while carefully examining the remains of the forward area of my front seat, a triangular shaped embossed aluminum nameplate, After carefully unrolling the piece, I discovered the following data: C.R. Wilson Body Co. Detroit Mich.

After researching the Company, I discovered that in addition to making bodies for Chalmers, they also did the same for Lincoln, Marmon, Maxwell, Overland, Packard, Paige, Peerless and Reo.

I've been looking for one of these nameplates, to be able to nail it back on my front seat, when my restoration is completed. It measures 1 3/4" across the top, and 1 1/2" along each side.

The photos below show the remains of the nameplate as I found it, and the second attachment shows the drawing that I did, showing how it originally appeared.

Thanks for looking!

Bobpost-53992-143139230756_thumb.jpg

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Hi,

One of my latest replication challenges, in the process of restoring my 1920 Chalmers Touring, was to fabricate the four steel domed fittings used to secure the original engine hood latch handles, located at the base of the hood, two on each side. Only two original, badly worn pieces remained, useable only as patterns.The original part is only about 2 inches long, and about 1 inch wide. Not much to replicate, but the center portion, being dome shaped, was the challenging part.

I sketched what I thought was the tool I needed to make, to replicate the parts, and I finally realized that the tool already existed. My small ball pean hammer! Now all I had to do was to mate the hammer head end for end, with my 12ton hydraulic press. I did this, with a "sleeve", using a block of hardwood. I bored on the one end of the sleeve, to match the press's arbor diameter, and on the opposite end of the sleeve, bored to match, post-53992-143141744563_thumb.jpgthe center of the ball peen hammer's head, all in line.

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At the base of my hydraulic press, I aligned a suitable backup base material (composite decking), to withstand the hydraulic pressure. A 3/4" diameter hole was drilled into the base material, which aligned with the peen head portion of the ball peen hammer. Note: To insure correct dimensional contour of the domed portion of the part to be manufactured, I shaped the peen end of the hammer, with a file, till I thought it was compatible with the dome shape portion of the part to be replicated. Next, I counterbored a large area concentric hole around the existing 3/4" hole in the base material, just deep enough, to accept a large area steel washer, whose outer diameter (O.D.) was 1 3/4", and it's inner diameter 11/16" (I.D.), closely matching the I.D. of the existing hole in the base material. This steel backup washer, assured a "crisp" outer shell, for the finished steel dome when pressed.post-53992-14314174466_thumb.jpg

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Continued..

The material I used to fabricate the four pieces, was a standard 4 inch square galvanized electrical box cover plate, of about the same 13-14 gage steel, as the original material. It was my material of first choice, after having practiced on a couple of spare plates that I had on hand. I have to admit, I did at times get a little "jack happy", with my press handle and "blew out" a few holes during the process. I probably could have gotten a little more sophisticated, but I was able to get all four perfect pieces out of a single cover plate, for 60 cents plus tax from Home Depot.post-53992-143141744704_thumb.jpgOnce out of the "press", I cut the individual parts on my metal band saw.

To be continued.

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The last step, using two additional steel washers, same 1 3/4" diameter as the first washer, bonded together, as a tool to locate twopost-53992-143141744834_thumb.jpg mounting holes for the replicated part's attachment, to the car, plus, I added two inner center washers, filling the inner center 11/16" gap, with two smaller washers, (see photo). This center hole locates the upper center point of the dome, to accurately mark, and be able to cut the slot required to accomodate the mating Hood Latch Handle Assembly.

The parts are now pilot drilled, and ready to be installed at some future date.

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Welcome back! As you're finding out, restoration of a car is not one big job, but 2000 small jobs...........nice work and clever fabrication....

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That's some great restoration work. I can't wait to see more of this and then the finished car.

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Welcome back! As you're finding out, restoration of a car is not one big job, but 2000 small jobs...........nice work and clever fabrication....

Thanks trimacar, good hearing from you again. By my count, I'm way past the 2000 mark and climbing. And I enjoy what I'm doing.

Bob

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That's some great restoration work. I can't wait to see more of this and then the finished car.

Thank you hursst for your feedback. I really appreciate it. I can't wait to do more soon, so that I can still see enough, to be able to finish the car.

Bob

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I love it when a guy can make his own car parts. I have to do that once in a while since my car is pretty much one year production. Excellent work BobD!

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I love it when a guy can make his own car parts. I have to do that once in a while since my car is pretty much one year production. Excellent work BobD!

Hi,

Thanks for the kudos, keiser. I don't know how You have the time, to do anything for your project, when You are constantly serving other's needs. I commend, and look up to You, my friend.

Regards,

Bobd

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Chalmers Hood Tie-Down Support Fitting (Bonnet Lock Plunger Bracket) -Update

I did some further research regarding the "Fitting" and found out that it was called a "Bonnet Lock Plunger Bracket", whose part number was: G-4-445 for the Chalmers Six-30 Series. And for the Chalmers Six-40 Series (Ovhd Camshaft engine). For both the Models 32-A and 32-B the part number was: CA-2674.

Bob

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Bob,

Very clever use of the hydraulic press. Fabrication is an art.

Dwight

Dwight,

Thank you very much. I'm learning.

Bob

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Bob.....it was great talking with you. I admire your fabricating skills.

It was great talking with you also, John. I admire your humanitarian skills. Keep up the good work.

Bob

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Hi Bob,

As a new owner and restorer of a Chalmers I am very impressed with your work and very envious of your new wheels, I would like to get a new set made for my car, could you give me details of your wheelbuilder ? are the metal rims available anywhere ? are decent split rims available also ?

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Andy

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Hi Bob,

As a new owner and restorer of a Chalmers I am very impressed with your work and very envious of your new wheels, I would like to get a new set made for my car, could you give me details of your wheelbuilder ? are the metal rims available anywhere ? are decent split rims available also ?

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Andy

Hi Andy,

Thank You, Welcome aboard!

Regarding your question about rim availability for a 1913? Chalmers. It would be best to post that request under "Buy/Sell".

About "My Wheelmaker". That request would have to be made via a private message.

Regards,

Bob

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Hi again Andy,

What do you plan to do about front and rear hubs, & felloes, for your new wheels? When I began on my 1920 restoration, It had 21" steel disc wheels. The car originally came with 24" Kelsey rims, I found the front and rear hubs, and needed rims and felloes. Fortunately other makers of the same period, namely Dodge Bros. used the same 24" rims, felloes, and don't forget the rim bolts and nuts. With all of that material, I sought out a wheelwright, who made the spokes from my patterns. All of that effort took many years, but that was the route I had to go. Regards, Bob

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Hi Bob,

I am looking out for any of the relevant parts to build up to a set of wheels, I understand how long it takes that is why I am starting now while the wheels I have are still usable, do you have any good sources of wheel parts ?

I am also looking for a Splitdorf magneto or parts for one, points, distributor cover, etc.

Andy

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Hi Andy,

In the past, I've been able to find rims, felloes, and related hardware at swap meets. Fortunately, I found the remains of a 1921 Chalmers touring, and from it, was able to salvage hubs, rear drums and other missing items. Stuff is still out there, you just have to keep searching and advertising your needs.

If you can make it to Hershey, in the Fall, that's always a good place to locate hard to find missing items.

My area of interest are Chalmers Cars of the 1920's. I'll keep my eyes open for you.

Lot's of luck.

Regards,

Bob

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I believe that the three main causes leading to the destruction of an automobile, by natural causes, are fire, water, and termites.

My 1920 Chalmers, prior to my ownership, had suffered from all three. In my case, fire caused the most damage. I considered water/rust, second, and termite damage as third. My reasoning for this conclusion was arrived at because, although the fire was limited to the front seat area, it caused serious damage to the Ignition and Lighting Switch Assembly. Very few remnants of that Assembly survived. There was collateral damage to surrounding components, like the front seat structure, instrument panel, and steering wheel, but they are restorable.

With regard to the loss of the Ignition and Lighting Switch Assembly, the only proofof what had previously occupied that location, were two salvageable components, the Housing, containing the fused remains of a casting, and the Wire Tube,[ATTACH=CONFIG]203033[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]203034[/ATTACH]which had transported six wires running from the Fuse Block on the firewall, to the now missing Ignition and Lighting Switch Assembly.

Hanging from the Wire Tube were five-14 gage, and one-10 gage "fried" wires. Both the Housing and the Wire Tube were found in the rubble on the driver's floor boards

The only references I had, as to what the original Ignition and Lighting Switch looked like, was a photo of the instrument panel, from a 1920 Chalmers advertising brochure, showing the Ignition and Lighting Switch Assembly, as mounted in the car, and how the major components mated together. In addition, my reference material included an illustrated 1916 Chalmers parts manual which shows the 1916 version of the Ignition and Lighting Switch Assembly. This information, though outdated, gave me a design concept, as to the number and type of parts used in the various sub-assemblies which were gone.

I needed more detailed information, and turned to a friend, who had previously restored a 1920 Chalmers 5-passenger Touring, like mine. He had kept detailed notes, records, photos, and most important, spare parts of the Switch Assembly, all of which, he was willing to part with.

My good friend also created a drawing of the entire Switch Assembly, which I am indebted to him for. Without which, I would not have easily been able to replicate parts to restore my Switch Assembly. I still have wires to fabricate, and some minor restoration to do, but the major work is completed on this project.post-53992-143142012968_thumb.jpgI would like to take this opportunity to thank all of my friends, like Ted, who without their support and encouragement, I would not have been able to continue to progress on my challenge to complete my restoration. This is really what AACA, and this hobby is all about!

Thank You,

Bob

e[ATTACH=CONFIG]203031[/ATTACH]

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1920 Chalmers Restoration- Ignition and Lighting Switch Assembly (continued)

Two of the photos intended for inclusion in the above article were ommitted, so I'll try again:post-53992-143142020255_thumb.jpg

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Ignition and Lighting Switch Assembly (continued)

I realized that the photo which showed the fused Switch Assembly remains, within the Housing had "vaporized", so I've resubmitted it. Sorry about thatpost-53992-143142021554_thumb.jpg

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