38 Opera Coupe Progress

[Guest locoincolo]

As with any vehicle project, I'm flipping around a bit on the things I do.

Finished the running boards, and I should probably be working on the steering box, or pulling the oil pan as so many suggest - or even completing my air cleaner setup.

Since I have most of the glass channel parts and weatherstrip bits I decided to pull the vent windows and put in new weatherstrips, glass run channels, etc.

Well, of course, there's always more to do, right? First, one vent regulator is broken, the other is cracked. I pull them off and call Paul Tacheny and have "new" ones coming. The passenger vent glass is delaminating - so why not pull the glass and get it replaced? Then since the "outer" frames are out of the car maybe I should sandblast them so I can paint them - same with the lower run supports.

Now I'm cleaning up the vent glass frames and have removed the divider and taken it apart so that I can rechrome the dividers and glass frames. So at this point I can't put my windows back together for a month (until the chrome is done)

But at least I can focus on other things.

I'm desperately trying to stop myself from woodgraining the "tan" painted dash, garnish moulding, etc. I need to get this car on the road in about 4 weeks, so there must be compromise, right?

Since I've drilled out the rivets holding my vent regulators to the frame, and the rivets holding my window dividers together... anyone know a source for the proper (or close) rivets? I found some today, but they're a little large.

[Guest Grant Magrath]

Unless we're speaking a different language, are you talking about the rivets that hold the vent window post brackets on the vent window post? If so, you can get away with pop rivets and peening the surplus down flat. Done it on my 39 Chevy and 2 39 Buicks.

With the woodgraining, you could paint the base on and leave it, but it's an ugly yellow/brown color!

Cheers

Grant

[Guest locoincolo]

I have some rivets that will likely work.

The PO painted dash, garnish moulding, stick shift, etc sort of a tan color. I don't mind it, but I think that brown color is more appropriate as a base for the woodgrain. Short term is gonna be "what it is", and maybe I can figure out that "butt walnut" pattern later.

Baby steps, right?

[Guest Grant Magrath]

Right! Baby steps!

The base color can be found on the underside of the window garnish moldings, and is quite ugly by itself, but is the only way you'll get the woodgraining right!

Cheers

Grant

[Guest locoincolo]

I have a couple of pcs that he didn't paint, so I have the base color. In the short term I'll probably just punt and go with his crappy paint and go later with the woodgrain.

Hell, I have no interior. The seat is nice, but the panels are gone or shot. The headliner is shot.

Tomorrow is put in my new paper air filter and fire that baby up and drive a few miles and see how the timing, etc. works.

[Guest Grant Magrath]

Cool!

Have you been to PreWarBuick - The Largest Vintage Buick gallery on the web - PreWarBuick.com and had a look at their Links page? Some useful contacts there.

with the 39, we made our own door panels using some 3mm thinline customwood and some clips. Then we got an upholsterer to do the stitching and armrests. We had nothing to go on at all as the car had no interior whatsoever, including the lower seat springs. My father's pretty good at making patterns!

Cheers

Grant

[Guest locoincolo]

Grant, thanks for the pointers. That baby is beautiful!

Pretty good? He's great!

Found a paper air filter today that will fit my HD air cleaner. I'll maybe put that together tonight after work. So many things - I'm distracted looking at the links about rebuilding your shocks.

I haven't even touched the steering slop or the blow by or rebuilt the carb yet.

I have some no-smoke - maybe a quick brake bleed (had to move a brake line) and a little carb tweaking and we'll go for a ride this weekend. No side windows - but it'll be nice.

Peace!

Craig

[Guest locoincolo]

Also, the PO did some door repair and filled any weep holes that might have been there.

Anyone have a picture of door weepholes on a 38 so I can redrill them?

Thanks!

[Guest Grant Magrath]

Sounds like you'll be a busy boy Craig!

The steering's quite easy to adjust. Remove end play from the worm and roller, then adjust backlash by loosening the securing bolt and tapping the adjuster across 1/16" at a time. Check the drag link and tie rod ends as well while you're there. 10min tops.

That shock rebuild info is ok for your fronts, but your rears are telescopic. Haven't done those myself, but the procedure is in the manual. You have to measure the fluid, etc.

Good luck with the doors!

Cheers

Grant

[Guest locoincolo]

Grant... yes, busy indeed. Should have my federal permit very soon for Alcohol production.

Check us out at www.spirithounds.com

Thanks for all the info - I'm sandblasting vent frames and lower window channel supports right now.

[Guest Grant Magrath]

There are some very nice pics on your page Craig! And I've liked you on FB as well.

One of the positives of the Christchurch earthquakes is using the dried liquifaction (essentially river sand) for sandblasting.

Cheers

Grant

[Guest locoincolo]

That is a muddy mess! Nice looking on the bright side with the sandblast media!

Keep an eye on the distillery - we'll continue to update our pics as we progress.

A little more sandblasting tonight, maybe a little primer too.

Cheers!

[Mark Shaw]

Craig,

Awsome job building your distillery... I can hook you up with my distributor in Denver for sanitary valves, etc... Just send me a PM if you are interested..

[danhar1960]

Oi Grant !!!

There's a story going around that some young hoon once put that old Dodge into a pole at some point in it's life. :D

Danny

[Guest locoincolo]

I just replaced a door latch spring on the driver side. What a pain!

Had to drill out the rivet upon which the latch slides, and unbend the u shaped spring retainer. That little retainer was unwilling to bend back and one side broke off so I just tig'd it a little to keep it in place. I'll have to weld my rivet back in place too because there's not enough rivet to pound back into shape.

I'm going to have to look for a real thin washer to replace the one that was

destroyed when I pulled the latch apart. There's a rubber bumper in there too - when the latch springs all the way "out" it stops it. I bet I can make something up outa the hardware store for that one.

The new spring sure seems stiff - but it looks exactly like the passenger side spring.

After a little soak in the parts washer and some lithium grease, I'm guessing it'll work just fine.

Hopefully I'll start putting the doors back together soon and get the glass in.

[Guest Grant Magrath]

Oi Grant !!!

There's a story going around that some young hoon once put that old Dodge into a pole at some point in it's life. :D

Danny

Absolutely untrue Danny! No truth to that rumour whatsoever. It was a tree!

Pushed the running board up to the chassis, destroyed the back door and the front half of the rear mud guard (fender). A dangerous combination of wet weather, slippery s bend, town and country tyres, and being 15. On the up side, I got to work on the car with the panel beater over the summer holidays and learned a few bits and pieces. Still remember hearing the news that John Lennon had been shot, while scraping paint off.

Cheers

Grant

[Guest Grant Magrath]

I just replaced a door latch spring on the driver side. What a pain!

Had to drill out the rivet upon which the latch slides, and unbend the u shaped spring retainer. That little retainer was unwilling to bend back and one side broke off so I just tig'd it a little to keep it in place. I'll have to weld my rivet back in place too because there's not enough rivet to pound back into shape.

I'm going to have to look for a real thin washer to replace the one that was

destroyed when I pulled the latch apart. There's a rubber bumper in there too - when the latch springs all the way "out" it stops it. I bet I can make something up outa the hardware store for that one.

The new spring sure seems stiff - but it looks exactly like the passenger side spring.

After a little soak in the parts washer and some lithium grease, I'm guessing it'll work just fine.

Hopefully I'll start putting the doors back together soon and get the glass in.

Sounds like a pain in the butt! I remember seeing rebuild kits on eBay for these things I think. Sandblasting go ok?

Cheers

Grant

[Guest locoincolo]

Sandblasting went very well. Hardest parts were the lower parts of the vent frames where there must've been more moisture - or any parts where there was rubber sealant - it doesn't like to blast away, just bounces.

I have a homemade blast cabinet that makes the job relatively easy.

Still have about 1/2 of the drivers side lower window support to clean up, then I'll hit 'em all with a little metal prep with some phosphoric acid to whack the last bits of rust and paint away. No one will ever know that they look nice, but I'll know they're protected for the next several years.

[Guest locoincolo]

I've rewired the trunk, and now I'd like to replace the plywood over the spare tire. I'm guessing by the bolt pattern that there were three pieces - one deep in the back, and two over the tire - is that correct? Were they contoured around the wheelhousings, or just square?

I have not found good info in the shop or body manual, and don't see alot of 38 coupe trunk pix.

Anyone have some pointers - or some pictures to share?

[Guest outlaw car man]

Grant... yes, busy indeed. Should have my federal permit very soon for Alcohol production.

Check us out at www.spirithounds.com

Thanks for all the info - I'm sandblasting vent frames and lower window channel supports right now.

Spirithounds, nice ! Seeing the tanks coming in on semitrucks, renting cranes at $450.00/ hour, brings back all sorts of memories.

Let me know when the Absinthe is ready.

If you need a security guard, I'm available for barter/trade.

Sandy

[Guest locoincolo]

Sandy,

Lookin' forward to meeting you. Will you be at King Buick on the 16th?

Don't think the coupe is gonna be ready (meaning I'm not yet comfortable

taking her that far, plus the side windows are out)

My partners are so far forbidding me from Absinthe production - due to their inability

to handle it!

Lemme know if you have a handle on any brewing equipment... namely a 15bbl brewhouse, steam fired.

Thanks,

Craig

[38Buick 80C]

I've rewired the trunk, and now I'd like to replace the plywood over the spare tire. I'm guessing by the bolt pattern that there were three pieces - one deep in the back, and two over the tire - is that correct? Were they contoured around the wheelhousings, or just square?

I have not found good info in the shop or body manual, and don't see alot of 38 coupe trunk pix.

Anyone have some pointers - or some pictures to share?

I think I recall seeing exact dimension in an old Torque Tube.

Check the tech index found here and then look in the appropriate magazine.

[Guest locoincolo]

Thanks Brian,

I didn't see it, but I'll check again - I did see a guy in a 1983 issue that had the dimensions - full size drawings I think.

Maybe I'll try to contact him as well.

[Guest locoincolo]

A couple of test drives today revealed a "slap" that was caused by missing bolts on the drivers side of the front stabilizer bar. I live on a gravel road, and a couple washboards got my attention real quick!

Fixed that, then focused on a whine from the clutch. Kinda singing, actually. First, the clutch pedal and brake pedal gaskets at the firewall are shot. Second, the clutch pedal was backed right up to the toe board on the underneath side. I adjusted the screw to give me about 5/8" of space.

Maybe you guys can clarify this for me. In the clutch pedal lash adjustment section of the 38 shop manual I read that I should have 3/8" to 5/8" of space between the pedal and the underside of the toe board. The drawings "seem" to show 7/8" inches of space for the larger models, and 1/8" of space for the 40 series (mine). Any experienced hints on where I should put mine? I'm guessing the whine was from the pedal pressing on the toe board, so zero inches is clearly wrong.

My lash seems a little deep as well. So the modern clutches I have adjusted have a very obvious free play - you can usually flop them backwards 3/4" or so as an indication that they're not too tight. This thing has that return spring that's pretty big - so the "free play" area is covered by the return spring and you have to feel the difference between the spring and the clutch fingers engaging... correct? In my case, it feels like I'm at about 1.5" ... so I'm gonna adjust it inward and see how she feels.

It's kinda fun wrenching on this old beast - but I dread the thought of replacing a throwout bearing or clutch so I'd like to make sure the adjustments are correct.

I also got my timing down as well. Really smooth idle, accelerates smoothly - pretty nice engine it seems. Of course I topped out at a whopping 40mph and that was fast enough to make it hard to concentrate on the oil pressure and the clutch noises, and the generator charge and still keep her in the lane.

Cheers!

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

I think I recall seeing exact dimension in an old Torque Tube.

Check the tech index found here and then look in the appropriate magazine.

Okay, Brian, where is the"tech index"? Probably right beneath my nose, but can't see it.

Thanks

Ben

[38Buick 80C]

Okay, Brian, where is the"tech index"? Probably right beneath my nose, but can't see it.

Thanks

Ben

Oh well I see I forgot to post the link to the site with all the old Torque Tube magazines from the defunct 37-38 club.

1937 and 1938 Buicks www.1937and1938Buicks.com

There is an index of technical articles from the magazines on the site as well.

[Guest outlaw car man]

Sandy,

Lookin' forward to meeting you. Will you be at King Buick on the 16th?

Don't think the coupe is gonna be ready (meaning I'm not yet comfortable

taking her that far, plus the side windows are out)

My partners are so far forbidding me from Absinthe production - due to their inability

to handle it!

Lemme know if you have a handle on any brewing equipment... namely a 15bbl brewhouse, steam fired.

Thanks,

Craig

Steam fired Kettle & Mash Tun or just kettle ? Last ones I had were 50s at HC Berger Brewery but I sold the buiness and the new owners went belly up and it was sold to Brian at Great Divide. Fort Collins Brewery has a 15BBL sysyem but they are leasing it to Funkworks who are leasing time on it to Crooked Stave ( I think).

I've been out of the market to long. There are like 17 breweries in the Northern Colorado area now. , When I started there were 3.

[Guest locoincolo]

Sandy, I need both a kettle and a mash tun, currently will be making my wash at Upslope brewing in North Boulder and trucking it up to our place to ferment.

[Guest locoincolo]

Couple of updates.

I adjusted the steering box according to the manual, as best I could.

Pulled the pitman arm - centered the steering wheel, and could definitely feel the center which

is a little stiffer than the rest of the steering travel. The notch on my steering tube at center was straight up - and I think it's supposed to be straight down.

I tried to center the "wheels" to the steering wheel in my newfound center, but the passenger side

tie-rod bottomed out and I wound up with my steering wheel off by about 30 degrees.

Anyway, during the process I tightened up the lash - and the drive is much better - feels just fine as far as I can tell. The fact that I can't center it perfectly means that I have a bent steering arm or something that I can deal with in the future.

Also lubed the chassis while she was up on jacks, and I have a couple of questions about the lube points.

Where do I fill the fan/water pump oil reservoir? I can't find any such place.

My distributor has a grease zerk, I didn't grease it yet, but I guess I should, right?

I oiled the generator bearings, but can not find an oil cup for the starter bearings - any hints?

Likely I have some conglomeration of multiple years of parts which probably explains why I can't find these oil cups.

Took about a 6 mile test drive - topping out at 50mph, mostly around 30. Plenty of power, no weird sounds or feelings, and frankly it was a pleasurable cruise. My steering and clutch adjustments appear to be spot on. No doubt new tires and an alignment would give me another leap of improvement.

Thanks everyone!

Craig

[Guest locoincolo]

[Guest Grant Magrath]

Looking good Craig!

There is no oil or grease fitting for the water pump. It was supposed to be greased at the factory and left. The oil cups on the starter should be fairly obvious I would have thought, but I'm not 100%.

It's normal once the wheel alignment is done, for the steering wheel to be out a bit, as we found on the 39. And easy to over adjust the backlash on the steering box too. As long as you followed the procedure in the manual, you should be fine. Thank your lucky stars your steering doesn't have heaps of play like the coupe! It was adjusted to the max, and still about 6" at the wheel! Hence the rebuild!

Cheers

Grant

PS Got about 6" of snow here in Christchurch the other day. Got two biggish (for us) falls last winter. We can go for years without a good snow. Usually a dusting, if that. Global warming?????

[Guest locoincolo]

Thanks Grant. Followed the procedures to a T, and the steering wheel backlash seems about 2".. maybe a little strong of that. I tried not to overdo it, as the manual warns. Nonetheless, that adjustment cam is nearly all the way over to the right now - I moved it about 1/16" of an inch.

Ok, my 38 manual tells me to lube the "fan and water pump", so I thought I'd ask.

I suppose the starter is probably a newer model - there are no oil cups apparent anywhere, I've looked three times now.

Snow! Oh my - it's 90F here, but it makes the paint cure on my steering horn button faster!

[Guest locoincolo]

Anyone here have a recommendation for the paint under the word Buick on the Righthand side of the horn button? Seems to be "argent", or silver, but I can't tell any better from the photos I've found.

For now, I found a Dupli-Color metallic slate that seems nice. My can of silver is shot.

Also, using red model enamal, dark blue model enamel, and I think "zinc dichromate" for the "gold" parts, which seem pretty yellowish so I think this is a better match.

Might spray the whole thing with a clear coat to protect it.

[danhar1960]

My '38 has the early (oil reservoir type) water pump. If yours is this type it would be obvious. Even if yours had this type originally, it's more than likely to have been replaced with the later type at some point in it's life. The pre-greased for life type is a better unit but I will recondition and retain the older oil reservoir type as it adds just that little bit more "old car " feel.

Danny

[Guest Grant Magrath]

I thought that color on the horn button was a light gold? I'll have to have a look.

Cheers

Grant

[Guest locoincolo]

Well I found a pic that seemed more silver - my Mustang experience would call it argent (French?).

So here's my attempt. I haven't cleaned up the edges yet, and I might shoot a clear gloss coat on the whole thing to button it up.

[Guest Grant Magrath]

Looks nice Craig! The reason behind the light gold color would be to match the ashtrays I guess. Plus, we had traces of that color on our one, so we matched it as best we could. So a bit of a trim with a sharp exacto blade? I have to say, you have a very steady hand!

Cheers

Grant