waltmail Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Finally found the time to replace my rear shocks that I purchased last month. Dang. This is brutal. Had to use a cut off wheel on the driver side top mount. That nut was just frozen on. Unless their is a secret method, that sucker wasn't coming off. Sure their is a torx bit slot in the top shaft, but good luck with that. Now I am working on the bottom clamp bolt. Must be a secret for that one also, because it ain't budging. Anyone have a similar experience and had any success? Can't wait to do the other side if I get the first one done. These have to be the originals. I had similar difficulty when I replaced my rack a few months back. The assembly line must have had the torque settings maxed out that day. Hopefully overnight soaking with PB Blaster will have the desired effect. I am open to any suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Any chance it was exposed to salt spray at some point ? That amount of difficulty seems excessive. BTW I bought some "L" wrenches on eBay a few years ago that fit the top of rear shocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltmail Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) Nope no salt. The replacement units have flats, the original factory units, don't. The bottom clamp bolt is my nemesis now. Edited January 30, 2012 by waltmail (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike_s Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 The top might be a hex socket vs a torx, You might already know this, but with the bottom, the bolt can't be just loose, you need to remove it as there is a grove in the back of the shock which the bolt occupys and it keeps the shock from being removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltmail Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 The top might be a hex socket vs a torx, You might already know this, but with the bottom, the bolt can't be just loose, you need to remove it as there is a grove in the back of the shock which the bolt occupys and it keeps the shock from being removed.Did not know that. All the way out? The mount clamp is loose now. That must be why I cant get the shock out. Thanks for the heads up.BTW, the top is a hex socket, but no way in the world would that have helped get that nut off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest F14CRAZY Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 With the top nut I'd end up canning the plastic rod cover (probably not the best thing to do), angle-grind a couple flat spots on the rod, and hold it with a pipe wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltmail Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 With the top nut I'd end up canning the plastic rod cover (probably not the best thing to do), angle-grind a couple flat spots on the rod, and hold it with a pipe wrench.Already did that and it did not work for me. 3 guys yanking on top wrench and pipe wrench at same time and nothing except damaged knuckles. That is why I went with the cut off wheel. After I cut it off, out of curiosity, I stuck the remains in a bench vise and nothing. Seems rust,corrosion and age is actually the strongest bonding agent in nature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 What are the symtoms of bad rear schocks?Jon.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Ability to make the Reatta look like a rocking horse by modulating braking ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltmail Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 Finished the replacement this weekend. Never thought this process would be so tedious. I did get the rear shock units at a very good price from an online outfit. $56/each. Should have ordered the mount insulator kits at the same time and place, but didn't. Time and elements combined to make the old (original) units next to impossible to remove. Used full contents of a brand new can of PB Blaster, over a 4 day period to get the pinch cradle bolts loose. BTW, as suggested by another poster, remove bolts entirely, as there is a small dimple on the units, that the bolt passes through for securing and positioning purposes. Did not know that on the first unit. Thought for sure I was going to end up snapping the head of the bolt off, but didn't. I broke out a few tools I never thought I would need, including a mini sledge, tire iron levers, pipe wrench, Makita cut off wheel and three 7 " blades, et al. The final result was nice. No more rocking horse effect going over the speed bumps in my community. Next up, after my hands heal are the struts. I can't even imagine what a dealer would have charged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Jon, I also am doing all 4 struts, as my rears are leaking and I need an alignment anyhow. I checked the reciepts that I got with the Black when I bought it from the P.O. and they were installed 50,000 miles ago so it is time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Just got back from my friends house. Rear struts are done. Took just 3 hours. We ended up torching off the top nut as it was also rusted in place. I had bought some rear strut mounts and because of the torching we needed them. My big problem is the sway bar washers [the end of the sway bar that connects to the strut. They kind of look like grommets.] were pretty beat up. We had to use them again, but does anyone one know if they are still available and what the part # is? They didn't rattle as I drove home so I won't worry about them for this car, but it wouldn't hurt to have for the next project. Big difference in ride! Firmer and much better handling. Tomorrow front struts and then alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltmail Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 (edited) Just got back from my friends house. Rear struts are done. Took just 3 hours. We ended up torching off the top nut as it was also rusted in place. I had bought some rear strut mounts and because of the torching we needed them. My big problem is the sway bar washers [the end of the sway bar that connects to the strut. They kind of look like grommets.] were pretty beat up. We had to use them again, but does anyone one know if they are still available and what the part # is? They didn't rattle as I drove home so I won't worry about them for this car, but it wouldn't hurt to have for the next project. Big difference in ride! Firmer and much better handling. Tomorrow front struts and then alignment.I need those also. I am going to try ESPO Springs and Things General Motors Suspension Parts | Springs N' ThingsI have had luck with them in the past on bushings , etc.Never mind. Just contacted them and nothing. Edited February 8, 2012 by waltmail (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 I have the alignment set for Friday. I will ask them about those rubber inserts as they are an alignment place only. Find out what they have or what they do to fix this. I will report back if I/they have an idea. BTW I asked the alignment shop what they would charge to swap out the struts with the ones I would bring in. He said $160.00 plus $60.00 for a two wheel [$80.00 for a 4 wheel] alignment. I think I have installed my last set of struts... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Well the local alignment shop does not have, nor can they get, the rubber inserts. I definately will not do this again as there is an intermittant rattle, which could be caused by having to replace the drivers side outer tie rod as well as the lower ball joint. Also my ABS warning light is now on, preliminary tests indicate that it is the passenger side [not the side with the new suspension parts], so tomorrow [weather permitting] it is back under the car/hood swapping out the ABS lead and checking to make sure everything is tight. If you should want to do this, be sure to be careful regarding the ABS leads... they are fragile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farnelle Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 I learned some time back to let a shop do the rear shocks. Most of them have a set price and they do not really know what they are getting into with that top fitting. I have not tried taking another car back to the same shop to see it they change the price, but at least there are plenty of other shops nearby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Well the local alignment shop does not have, nor can they get, the rubber inserts. I definately will not do this again as there is an intermittant rattle, which could be caused by having to replace the drivers side outer tie rod as well as the lower ball joint. Also my ABS warning light is now on, preliminary tests indicate that it is the passenger side [not the side with the new suspension parts], so tomorrow [weather permitting] it is back under the car/hood swapping out the ABS lead and checking to make sure everything is tight. If you should want to do this, be sure to be careful regarding the ABS leads... they are fragile. OK Final chapter in the strut swap story. The above mentioned rattle turned out to be the rubber bushing located in the caliper mounting bracket. There is a kit from Auto Zone that has bushings in it [cost $20.00] that I am going to look at. If it is not in there, off to Gibson's for a complete mounting bracket. [The Black has 230,000 miles on the body, half that on engine/tranny] Also it has been about 3 days and better then 400 miles and the ABS sensor lead that I pulled from Gibson's [minus the aluminum can rusted in place] that I reinstalled into my hub [also with a rusted in place aluminum can] is working great. I fully recomend this attempt as the leads can be bought cheaply [in my case $2.00 as it can be plainly seen to be incomplete] and yet will work as a "redo" Something to consider if you have access to a U Pick yard and are willing to make the attempt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Just had the Red done today. All 4 struts and a ball joint. Also needs rear wheel shims. It is exactly the same shims I put in the Black. For 2seaters reference, work done at Baumgarts with parts bought elsewhere. Took them 3 hours for struts, ball joint, and alignment. Have an appointment to go back Friday to do the shims and an alignment. [i pay for shims but alignment is free]. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now