Guest snapier Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I replaced the harmonic balancer (89 reatta). Now the engine won't start (doesn't seem to be firing). Has anyone had a similar problem? The car ran fine yesterday.My first thought goes to the crank position sensor, but we were very careful not to damage it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCReatta Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Are you sure you lined all the fins up correctly? Did you use the old key or the one that came with the new harmonic balancer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mc_Reatta Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Did you install a new crankshaft position sensor or at least readjust the old one? You probably didn't get it right and it will prevent the car from starting if you did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest snapier Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I used the old key and sensor. I wasn't aware that the sensors were adjustable. Is there a post on the process? or is it in the FSM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mc_Reatta Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Read pages 6E3-C4-2 thru C4-9 and look at the pictures. Alignment tool not necessary. Just center the rings in the sensor gaps, Can be seen easily from under the car if it's not too late to save your sensor. If the blades were hitting it, it's probably chewed up already. At least it will now be easy to take the balancer off again if you have too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest snapier Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I'll check it tomorrow, but there is no interference between the sensor/balancer. Does there have to be a specific gap or just no interference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-a-n-i-e-l Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 i would just check the plug going to the CPS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest snapier Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 i would just check the plug going to the CPS.I unplugged/re-plugged it. No change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Have you removed a spark plug wire and checked to see if you are getting fire or not? That is the first step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest snapier Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Have you removed a spark plug wire and checked to see if you are getting fire or not? That is the first step.No, it was getting dark and I was a little disgusted that it didn't crank. I will check this afternoon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mc_Reatta Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I'll check it tomorrow, but there is no interference between the sensor/balancer. Does there have to be a specific gap or just no interference?No specific gap needed, just non interference. Gap is really set in the sensor, the shutter ring on the balancer just interrupts the magnetic field to trigger a pulse.While looking at the sensor makes logical sense based on what was just done to the car, may be focusing in the wrong place. If nothing looks obviously wrong, may be best to back up and start the "cranks but no start" tests to include the fuel pump and ICM too. May be coincidental, but one of them could have gone down while you were doing the balancer. I would do a quick check of the wires from the sensor up to the ICM if you have a DVM, and if those wires are OK I would start looking at all the other players too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 If you have the skills to use it, this tutorial might assist you with finding your problem. Be certain you follow the safety precautions if you use it.Crank Position Sensor & ICM Troubleshooting*-*ReattaOwner.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Might just look at the two balancers to be sure they are the same. It has been known to have packaged the wrong part in the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest snapier Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 We got it started. -Removed Harmonic balancer (checked it to make sure it was the right part...it was)-Replaced CPS and bracket-Tried to start It did not start well. It spit back, sputtered and tried to start (this was an improvement). It finally did start and ran fine.The CPS had no visible damage. I still think there might have been something else going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mc_Reatta Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 How old is your ignition module? Any signs of anything oozing out of it? Might be getting weak having a hard time processing the signals from the CPS. I guess time will tell if the CPS was your only problem. Normally changing out the balancer is such a PITA, it makes sense to install a new CPS at the same time as a preventative. Even though they normally are quite reliable, they do go bad from time to time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest snapier Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 There does seem to be some yellow "snot" dripped onto the radiator hose. I thought the ignition module was either good or bad (nothing in between)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 There does seem to be some yellow "snot" dripped onto the radiator hose. I thought the ignition module was either good or bad (nothing in between)?If the snot is coming from the Ignition Module you should replace it as soon as possible. If you want a new one I have the correct one listed here:The Reatta Store*-*ReattaOwner.comReplacing it are easy just three nuts underneath holding it.You also have the option of upgrading to a Delco system by picking one up at the salvage yard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 (edited) Does it look like this on the side? If so you can see what it looks like on the inside in the second photo. Edited January 25, 2012 by Ronnie (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mc_Reatta Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 The ooze is the first sign that the ICM is suffering from overheating issues. It's a complicated unit that receives the signals from the Cam and Crank sensors, processes the information and when the engine is cold controls the firing of the plugs. Once the engine warms and enters closed loop, the ECM takes over controlling the ignition but still relies on the processed signals supplied to it by the ICM and tells it when to fire the plugs.The entire base of the ICM is used as a heat sink as well as the electrical ground for the unit. Heat from the engine compartment, internal electrical functioning and can build up over time and degrade the unit especially if the mounting surface and the mounting plate have gotten dirty and don't supply a good ground and heat sink. Heat and age cause the potting compound inside the unit to turn from a solid into a gooey mess that can and will ooze out of any gaps in the case it can find. If you don't like being stranded, this is a good time to replace and or upgrade the ICM with another one.The heat will work the semiconductors inside over and start causing failures in the internal circuits which can manifest themselves in many different ways. Missing, poor mileage, driveability problems cold and or hot etc. You probably won't get any trouble codes calling your attention to a problem either.Eventually it may completely stall the engine and may or may not allow a restart when it cools down to a temperature it can handle. Of course there are other items in the system that can do the same thing so troubleshooting back to the ICM is a bit difficult especially without electrical testing equipment that most folks don't have access too.Replacing an aging unit giving questionable signs is cheap insurance and having a spare unit on hand can save the day if it does go. If you haven't already, upgrading to a Delco unit is highly recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I just replace with a Delco and run the engine under 190F (usu on 180), everything lasts longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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