Ovalrace25 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 The KNASHING of TEETH-- Or, It grinds and clashes when shifting.I have tested every part of the electrical system. It all works fine. I disconnected the elctrical from the solenoid and governor just like the book says and it still has the grinding slam shift action at UNDER 10MPH. Seems, It is mechanical -- SO what next?What can I do next? Exactly what can I expect to DO to fix this?Thanks!Rod funcars4us@hotmail.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzer3 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I'm sure if you have done all those tests you know that the transmission is full of oil. I have experienced grinding but only when the oil level is low. Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ovalrace25 Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 yes, it is full.. but I have not changed it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 (edited) The M5/6 transmissions must be kept full of 10W oil and the electrical wiring must be in good working condition. These transmissions need up to 40lbs of oil pressure to make the direct speed piston properly move forward which forces the direct speed clutch sleeve and blocker ring forward and onto the input shaft which then completes the automatic high range upshift.If there is not enough oil pressure to do this there will be no or partial engagement and could cause grinding or banging out of high range upon an automatic upshift into high. If this grinding condition goes on long enough it will cause the direct speed clutch sleeve and input shaft straight teeth to get slightly rounded off and prevent direct complete lockup into high because of these rounded off teeth. The big damage has been done to these inportant hard to find parts!.Low oil level, a sticky control valve, wiring issues ect can be the beginning of this grinding, banging, popping out of gear problem. High idle speed will only delay the upshift-will not damage the trans.By eliminating the wiring voltage to the transmission ( this will make sure the oil pump always is pumping at maximum pressure to cause an imediate upshift) then driving the car. If it still grinds/pops out of high range gear the transmission has internal issues. Edited January 15, 2012 by c49er (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ovalrace25 Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Yes, it has internal issues.. It is full of 10w oil.. I am trying to find out what to do next. Can I test oil pressure? Or do I have to just take it apart and rebuild it entirely?Electrical ALL works fine. and idle is set low. Road test with electrical shut down --- Grinding and WHAM! it shifts.I do not know how LONG it had been doing this before it came to me for help... It has been 45years since I had one of these apart..Thanks For The Suggestions so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Probably time to take another one apart! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ovalrace25 Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 OK, And Then WHAT?Any parts out there? I see the NOS notes on the photos posted.. Who has parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 I have found all my M5/6 parts over the years by always searching the internet and talking to people at swap meets. No one makes these parts but Chrysler. You need to first tear it down to find the problem inside then locate the needed parts.Andy bernbaum, Mitchell Motor Parts, Collector Auto Supply are just some sources. There are many more and probably better suppliers.BTW the 3rd gear is not a wear part and I have never had to replace that gear. The blocker ring and the clutch sleeve are a top wear item and for 100% perfect proper upshifting the input shaft must be replaced too. These parts only affect/ control the M5/6 auto upshifts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ovalrace25 Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 I picked up an M6 from an OLD wrecking yard... He had it stuffed back in a shed with Model T Ford stuff.. Said he drove the car in back in the day.... Whatever that day was I have no clue.. But judging from the dust on it and that under the dust there was NO grease, grime, oil or rust.. Maybe I scored..NO--- He did not want to sell ANY of the T stuff... Had yo walk past a AA Ford flatbed, a T truck and a 27 touring, crawl over another T chassis..... There it was... next to a stack of T top bows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 The date of manufacture and engine code can be found stamped next to the side shift cover. Check the rear brake drum and driveline yoke to see if they are the same as yours. There are a couple different styles of M6 transmissions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyler Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 there is a company called Fatsco in new jersey that does alot of vintage tranny;s. might be able to rebuild your old one or have some parts you may need for the replacement. skyler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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