Guest neemot Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 I am just starting to work on my 1927 Studebaker Victoria coupe. It has an inline 6 motor which hasn't ran in a long time but does turns over. First thing I want to do is get some fresh oil in it. I drained the crank and removed the plug from the bottom of the oil filter on the passenger side of the motor. After some persuation with a piece of wire I managed to drain the slug and oil out of the filter canister.Is there something more that I should do other than try to rince it out with some solvent? Also, there is some sort of thumb screw valve on the side of the canister. I can't seem to get it to turn and don't have any idea what it is for. Does something need to be done with it? I have now remove the inlet and outlet lines from the top of the canister and remove it from the motor.Any help would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stude8 Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 If you could post a photo of the oil filter bracket and filter on your car it would answer a lot of questions about what is present on your car. What model car and engine do you have?I have a 1928 Commander Victoria that had an obsolete non correct filter installed when I got the car. Since the early style sealed can types are not available at this date and could have the old cotton filter material full of bugs anyway that you would not want to put one on the engine. This is what I did to my engine since the intent is to drive the car and not worry about judging points against the system at car shows. I bought a modern spin on oil filter adapter bracket from Summit Auto Supply and re-tubed the oil to and from the adapter from the pressure supply line at rear of block and the return line to right side crankcase inlet with copper tubing.The filter adapter is located under passenger side of car body behind running board sheet metal so not to be obvious unless you are under the car.Just an example of what can be done. You should replace the filter at this date if you can locate one that matches what you have. Some of the Fram C series canister types that use a disposable filter element might be found at an old tractor supply shop and would be good to install on your engine.Attached are photos of what was on my engine when bought and what I did to add the modern disposable spin on type filter.Stude8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest neemot Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Thanks for the quick reply, Stude8. That sounds like a good plan for my application. I'll send you more info tomorrow with some pics of the existing filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest neemot Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 I'v had this car for 5 years and have just got it home so I can start on it. I really don't know much about it so any info you can get from the pics would be appreciated. I think I will try the tractor stores first to see if I can find something to replace the filter in its original location but I like what you have done with your setup and will probably end up doing that. That said, I would still be interested in learning more about that valve that is on the side of the one I now have on the car if anyone has an idea.Your help is appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stude8 Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 It looks like you have a pretty complete car to start with. The 1927 EW Commander was the predecessor of my 1928 GB Commander so they share a lot of common features. I will attach a few ads for your car for your interest in case you don't have them yet.With the steel disc wheels yours could be the "Chancellor" endurance record holding version. It has 75 HP engine, 120" wheel base chassis, serial number range is 4,000,001 > 4,039,799 so you can determine from your number whether it is an early or late production car.About an oil filter application, attached is a photo of the Fram C style canister on a Dictator 6 engine. The canister top cover can be removed and the cylindrical filter element is slid up out of the canister and the new is dropped in its place. These were common add-on filters on cars and tractors in 1920-40's.Stude8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GE Dictator 1928 Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 Hi,I have a similar problem as well. I have attached a picture of my engine below. I found that Roberts Auto Parts Roberts Motor Parts - ONLINE CATALOG (978)-363-5407 or (978)-363-5881 has made an arrangement to have the old Purolator PER1/2 (as in the pic of my engine) reproduced. Problem is that the maker makes the order when they feel like it. I waited 3 years for them to have stock again and I got 2. You can give them a try as they make them for Chrysler and Plymouth cars.The original oil filter for these cars was a "pancake" type (looks like a 1 1/2 to 2" thick pancake) that was removed from most of these vehicles years ago as they and their elements became OOP many years ago. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Neemot, I believe that the little valve on the side of the canister was to bleed the air out when running the engine with a new filter. I believe that the filter only filtered a bit of oil, it is not a full flow oil filter like the modern engine of today or even in the 60s. If it was me with your issue, I would gut the inside of the canister to make sure the oil can flow through the canister. It is not filtering much oil anyway. I would then make an effort to change my oil once a driving season or 500 miles max. It your oil turns black then I would change it. Since you have not dropped the pan I would stay away from detergent oil and go with non-detergent 30 weight. This is just my recommendation and do it to my two 20s Buicks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 The old partial flow filter was a good filter. It filtered only part of the oil at a time but did a very thorough job. If it was mine I would try to keep the old filter and find a cartridge that would fit. They still make them for tractors, industrial aps etc. Or some NOS ones might turn up.A modern full flow filter will give the worst of both worlds, sketchy filtering to only part of the oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest neemot Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 To Stude8,I located the serial number and it is 4,032,530 which means it was completed in the later part of the year I guess.To All,Thank all of you for your advise and informative information and recommendations. To give you some background on the car, I bought it about 5 years ago while visiting in Iowa and had it stored there until a few weeks ago. I had been told that it had been worked on and was being cranked but had not started. I am finding that it will need a lot of prep work than I had thought before it is ready to run. Plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, the pan had an inch of sludge in the bottom, etc. Anyway until I can get some confidence that it will start, I've desided to put a coupling in the filter line and by pass the filter for know.Thanks again for the good info.Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bob Call Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 TomNothing wrong with bypassing or removing the filter. If you do, use non-detergent oil. Non-detergent does not hold soot and other solids in suspension they settle out into the oil pan. If you have an oil filter use detergent oil as it holds these contaminants in suspension until they are filtered out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest prs519 Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Speaking of bypass, do ya all not suppose that the handle, which picques curiosity for neemot, might serve as a bypass of some sort being used when oil pressure drops (or perhaps increases) on the gauge? On this one, I am betting my guess is correct due to location and construction of the wing nut, etc. Please correct me if need be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Can the filter be take apart to replace the filter medium. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest neemot Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Rusty,The filter is made from two drawn cans that are crimped together around the center of the assembly. Anything that was put inside had to been done before the crimping operation. The clamp at the top and bottom of the filter are only mounting bands that attach to the engine mounting brackets. They don't release any kind of top or bottom on the filter.The idea that the valve may be used as a bypass is real interesting. With the drain plug open on the bottom and if I apply air pressure at the "oil in"side and run the valve from open to closed, I should get air out the drain but at some point the air should only go out the "oil out" line and not out the drain hole.Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 I didnt know they made the throw away filters that long ago. They are supposed to be replaced every 5000 miles at least the newer ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stude8 Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 neemotGlad to read you opened your oil pan to remove sludge.I had the same experience with my 1928 GB engine, it was running fine but fresh oil dirtied up fast so I dropped the pan and found lots of sludge to clean out.Also found the oil pump intake screens were totally clogged and had ripped in a few places to allow oil intake. I had to disassemble the screen assy and install new mesh. (unsolder all metal stampings and resolder new brass mesh)Stude8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ainsley Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 I recently purchased a K&N style reusable air filter from a reputable on-line KLR retailer. When the part showed up in the mail it turned out to be from Studebaker.When I opened up the box the filter was so chock full of filter oil that the zip lock bag it was in had a puddle of oil in it. This took me by surprise since in my experience over oiling a filter can be just as bad as under oiling it.I removed the stock air filter off my bike and installed the new Studebaker oil filter. Before I buttoned the bike back up I tried to start it and the bike simply would not run. I could get it to start and if I held the throttle open it would run, but as soon as I tried to let it idle it would die. I put the original filter back in and the bike ran fine. Since the thing was basically dripping oil I decided that it needed to be cleaned dried and re-oiled which I did - actually I cleaned and dried it twice since it was such as oily mess. I re-oiled it today and put it on the bike and viola it started and idled just fine. So I took it for a test ride and wow - the bike really ran like crap. Under any sort of acceleration the bike would hesitate and the motor would lug, this was especially apparent in 4th gear around 3000rpm. If I twisted the throttle to speed up the bike would hesitate and acceleration was rough. I took the bike home swapped in the original dirty filter and took the bike for another spin and it ran like a top no hesitation, no motor lugging, no nothing, just my KLR running great like it has for all of the 2800 miles I have put on it.I have contacted Studebaker and expressed my disappointment in their product. I was told that they would rather send the filter over oiled to protect my bike against an under oiled filter? WTF? and that leaving the filter to sit on some paper towels for a few hours would have drained the excess oil. Sounds like a load of BS to me and they did offer me a free filter cleaning kit which I accepted, but as of an hour ago my Studebaker filter has taken up residence in the garbage can.I have used re-usable filters in the past, and the reason for this purchase was that all my other vehicles have K& N style filters and being able to use the same detergent and oil on all of them is just easier that messing with different stuff for different filters. Even after two cleanings this filter was still red (typically they turn a pale pink? - at least the real K&N ones do). Anyhow my best estimation is that even after the 2 cleanings it was still to full of oil to let the bike breathe and that's what was causing it to run like crap. Anybody else have this experience? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stude8 Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Ainsley, just to clarify a few things about the filter problem you experienced. What do the initials "K&N" stand for ? Who or what does "KLR" stand for?Last, when you say you received a "Studebaker" filter what was the Studebaker part number of the item you received?With the Studebaker part number I could date the item and application of what you got, anything from "Studebaker" at this date is at a minimum 49 years old including the oil in it! [They ceased USA production in 1963] Stude8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobb Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 I have the Studebaker now with serial # 4032530.Ijust got it started.Bought the car out of FL.It has made its rounds.Did you get the car started. Any parts that you have left that you want to get rid of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Found out recently that Amsoil makes an add on filter that filters very fine and works like the old bypass filters. This may be the answer for older motors that take that type filter, it is a good filter, spin on design and easy to change, and you can get replacements from Amsoil any time. But of course, does not have a vintage appearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobb Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Thanks for the info. Also do you know what the serial numbers mean.? Anything I do I would like it to be as original as possible. Color, trim etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 Studebaker Drivers Club can answer your questions! http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobb Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 Tom that had the 27 Studebaker from Iowa are you still on the forum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 2 hours ago, Cobb said: Tom that had the 27 Studebaker from Iowa are you still on the forum? If you mean tad27, last visited on March 27, 2016. Send a p.m. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cara71881 Posted October 29, 2020 Share Posted October 29, 2020 We have this car now! If anyone happens to stumble across it that was a former owner please contact us. If definitely has been making its rounds lol! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cara71881 Posted October 29, 2020 Share Posted October 29, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 29, 2020 Share Posted October 29, 2020 The white filter that was shown in an earlier reply was used on Chrysler products in the '40's and '50's. They show up sometimes on ebay. According to listings on ebay these filters replace L 93, Chryso 861028; Ace X1/2; PB ½ P; AC P21; Purolator PER ½; and WIX WF1/2. According to the label on the Champion box this filter C-1/2 replaces: AC-W1, 3, 7, 10, 13, 21; XG1, 2; XJ1; XN1;, 2; XP1, 2; Purolator EA4; E1/2; EA1/2; EF1/2; SA1/2; SAC1/2, SNC1/2; Champion 303. Fram P1/2. Pic 25; C5; D5. I had the three below as My filter was not available any more. However I bought a filter that looks like my original but has a spin on filter inside from Bob's Automobilia. https://bobsautomobilia.com/ I realize this was for a Buick but it sure filters the oil on my Pontiac. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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