1931 DH oil drain plug won't budge

[Guest R-ajax peterson]

Steel drain plug with thin copper washer in oil pan. Could it possible loosen clockwise? I've put enough muscle into counterclockwise to flex the suspension. Any ideas or moves of experience.

Thanks, Rick

[keiser31]

You could try to tighten it slightly first and then loosen. It should NOT be left hand threads. Be certain to use a hex socket and NOT a crescent wrench.

[Guest 1930]

Try a little heat, maybe they had a leak and used something on the thread

[Guest R-ajax peterson]

Thanks, I'll heat a bit and try again.

[knobless]

PB BLASTER" can't hurt either....works for me.

[Guest danceswithpumps]

If water has condensed in the oil pan, water being heavier than oil, rust is probably the problem. I agree with the others on penetrating oil (liquid wrench) is good, a little heat, working the socket both ways (I'm sure it would be counter-clockwise to remove). Also you might try hitting the socket with a hammer or better yet,using an impact wrench that you hit with a hammer.

Be patient, take it slow and

Good Luck!

Rod

[Guest R-ajax peterson]

Update! Today I purchased a six sided 1-1/8 socket.... added heat and a LOT of muscle. Nothing........then POW!!! I thought the head of the plug must have sheared the way this thing let go. Spun it out with finger tips.

Thanks folks... now any ideas on where to get a pan gasket?? Rick

[Guest 1930]

You can make one or try Egges, glad to hear it

[keiser31]

Nice work. How did the oil look??

http://www.egge.com/

[Phil 32DL6]

If you can't find a new gasket, they're not too difficult (and kind of fun) to make yourself.

Here's an idea: As a new one becomes available I add it to my collection of one each of OEM gaskets that can easily be made from sheets of gasket materials to use as templates. The exceptions are things like head and manifold gaskets.

Sometimes new materials turn up that are better than the original gasket materials. For example, I want to make a replacement radiator gasket for under my ram mascot. The original was a rubberized fiber material, but a little research suggested a high-heat and chemical-resistant product called Viton that is used in military applications might be just the ticket. 1/16" thick scrap sheets large enough to make about 6-8 gaskets are available on eBay for under $2.00 each.

Edited June 28, 2011 by Phil 32DL6 (see edit history)

[Guest R-ajax peterson]

Thanks for the gasket info.

The oil looked great for the first 3/4. Thought it might have been a waste to drain it. Then.....Black! Then some golden tiny bubbles with the black oil and different odor. Maybe had been stored with mystery oil or something? Will oil seperate like that after sitting a long time....or did someone not drain all the way and top off!??

[Guest cben09]

The oil got low and they added,,,,,,,different oil,,,brand,,non det/,,detergent,,,who knows,, and they dont mix,,,,Ben

[Guest R-ajax peterson]

After I take the pan off and clean it, should I run a detergent oil through for X number of miles, and change again? Should I wash all I can reach up in the crankcase with something?

Thanks, Rick

[Guest 1930]

Thats what I would do

[Phil 32DL6]

Should I wash all I can reach up in the crankcase with something?

You're opening up the age-old can-of-worm question about how to switch over from ND to detergent oil, but I would say, at the very least, while the pan's dropped, it might be good to open up the valve covers and flush out all the built-up crud there, too, letting it run down the oil return holes into the collection pan. Clean out the oil filter BEFORE adding detergent oil, as well. Still somewhat risky-business, I would guess.

[Guest R-ajax peterson]

Thanks for the input all. I'm not sold on the detergent oil idea. Iwas thinking of running detergent oil for say '50 miles' then drain and refill with ND oil. Maybe just run ND for 50 then drain and refill with same.

Phil, or anyone, what do I "wash", clean with? In the manual it says to wash transmission once a year. What with? It states NOT kerosene.

Rick

[Phil 32DL6]

Personally, I wouldn't recommend switching over to detergent oil UNLESS you do a complete engine overhaul...that is, take it completely apart, thoroughly clean every nook and cranny and replace worn parts. Using detergent oil, even briefly can loosen up old crud, and not all of it necessarily comes out the drain or gets trapped in the oil filter. Some can get lodged elsewhere, block oil flow and create major engine problems many miles down the road. It's a risky gamble: you might win...you might not.

Sure, when I drop the pan, I clean it really well with rags and cleaners, but refill with ND oil.

Try searching on this site under "detergent oil" and "non-detergent oil" and you will get some good past dialog on this topic. Here's a good starter: http://forums.aaca.org/f143/lets-talk-engine-oil-260924.html

[Guest R-ajax peterson]

I will NOT be using detergent oil. What do I wash engine, trans ,diff, with?

[Guest 1930]

I would use the detergent oil, run the engine and drain it like you said, back in the day one would mix the kerosine with the oil and run it to wash out the crap. I would also wash it out with kerosine. I have never had an issue with this method but of course everyone has different experiences.

Edited June 29, 2011 by 1930 (see edit history)

[Steve9]

For gaskets try Olson's Gaskets. New materials, perfect fit. Used them myself.

[Guest R-ajax peterson]

Thanks Steve.