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'64 AC going to be fixed I hope


bepnewt

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I found a Buick guy in Tulsa so I took my '64 in to see what he thinks about getting the AC fixed. He told me a few parts that we're going to have to get so I'm checking with you experts to see what I should do.

I need both vacuum diaphragms and the high pressure discharge hose that goes from the compressor to the condenser.

I'm now to the point where I have to start pinching pennies on anything I do to the car. Are these diaphragms something that I can get used and trust or do I need to find some NOS / New parts?

How about obtaining the discharge hose - where should I look to find one of those? I didn't see one on the CARS / OldBuickParts.com site but I may have been poorly searching.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Also, although I'm not real worried about the heat at the moment since it's been 90+ degrees here, I will eventually. I need a new heater control valve. My 'Riv doesn't have one at all. I found this thread and it looks like Jim sells new ones. I plan on calling him tomorrow or Tuesday. Does anyone have any other suggestions or good / bad experience with Jim? It looks like Bill S. was happy using him for a rebuild.

http://forums.aaca.org/f177/1964-heater-control-valve-rebuild-244491.html

Thanks for all the help you guys have given me so far.

-BEPNewt

( edited to add link )

Edited by bepnewt (see edit history)
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It is common for the HP hose to fail. It gets very hot and is under high pressure.

Don't mess with used vacuum diaphragms. They will just split due to age, heat, etc. Make sure the 2-port vacuum diaphragm is tested properly. To check 1/2 position, apply vacuum to outer port only. To check full position, apply vacuum to BOTH ports, not just the center port. Many a good diaphragm have been tossed by applying vacuum to only the center port and thinking it was leaking.

Just put a vacuum operated hot water valve on your car. See the article in the Members Only section. It turns the water on when you want heat, off when you don't. Let the flapper door control the temperature.

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Thanks, Jim.

Is testing the diaphragms something I can do or do I need to have the mechanic do it? I don't have my PDF manuals here at work, so I'll see what they have to say about it when I get home.

I'll definitely check out the article re:hot water valve. I thought I read on here that the article was for '63s and they were different than '64s in that area so I didn't check the ROA site.

-BEPNewt

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Brian,

The only difference would be in the location. The 63's is on the firewall, the 64's is on the inner fender. You'll have two soft water lines runnig to it plus a soft vacuum line. You could probably mount it anywhere you wanted.

Ed

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Is testing the diaphragms something I can do or do I need to have the mechanic do it? I don't have my PDF manuals here at work, so I'll see what they have to say about it when I get home.

-BEPNewt

I test my vacuum diaphragms with a little hand held manual vacuum pump and a short piece of vacuum hose. Very handy. Next best alternative is to run the engine and connect a single piece of vacuum hose to a place on the engine that has vacuum all the time.

When you apply vacuum you should see the actuator moving in. Stop pumping and the the vacuum should hold (the little actuator should stay in).

The outer nipple should move the actuator half way in.

When pumping on the inner nipple you need to at least cap off the outer nipple, but I use a small T fitting and apply vacuum to both nipples. That's what the car A/C system applies.

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Thanks, Jim. I'll see if my "car guy" neighbor can help me out with this. He may have a vacuum pump or know what hose I can safely use to test with.

Worst case that I have to buy 2 new diaphragms, what exact ones should I be looking for? I looked in my manual and I see lots of diagrams with for the A/C but I don't see anything that tells me the part number for the diaphragms.

A) Would 2 of part #VD235905 from this page correctly replace the 2 I have?

Air Conditioning parts - compressor, drier, evaporator, fan motor & valves

B) Is the high pressure discharge hose something I should have trouble finding? The local auto parts stores say they don't have one for my car in their computers.

-BEPNewt

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B) Is the high pressure discharge hose something I should have trouble finding? The local auto parts stores say they don't have one for my car in their computers.

-BEPNewt

Brian, chances are you will have to have hoses made. Our cars are not popular enough for reproductions to be sitting on the shelf. Not really a big deal. Take your old hoses to a qualified auto air specilist and they can make you new hoses. They reuse your old ends and recrimp to new hoses. If you plan to change to 134A refrigerant, tell them that and they will use the proper hose material. You may plan to use the origional R12, but that is getting harder to find. A/C shop should ask you that when you take the hoses in, but may not. If you can't find somebody in the Tulsa area, ask Jim Gleghorn, he can steer you in the right direction.

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Brian, chances are you will have to have hoses made. Our cars are not popular enough for reproductions to be sitting on the shelf. Not really a big deal. Take your old hoses to a qualified auto air specilist and they can make you new hoses.

Just got off the phone with the guy doing the work and he said the same exact thing. I'm taking her over on Sat. morning and he's going to yank the hose so he can take it to get the new one made. Thanks for validating what he said, I just came back to ask if this was the right thing to do.

They reuse your old ends and recrimp to new hoses. If you plan to change to 134A refrigerant, tell them that and they will use the proper hose material. You may plan to use the origional R12...

I am changing to 134A. The guy doing mine said he can get the old R12, but when he said the price, I told him we'll go with the 134A... after I stopped choking.

Thanks for the advice and info, Steve.

-BEPNewt

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Guest Kingoftheroad

Worst case that I have to buy 2 new diaphragms, what exact ones should I be looking for? I looked in my manual and I see lots of diagrams with for the A/C but I don't see anything that tells me the part number for the diaphragms.

-BEPNewt

You can goto a site like ClassicBuick.com and they will have parts specified for the desired diaphragm, thats where I got mine. They aren't that pricey either.

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You can goto a site like ClassicBuick.com and they will have parts specified for the desired diaphragm, thats where I got mine. They aren't that pricey either.

Thanks. That's the site I linked above and I think I found the right ones there. The part I was looking at is:

=============================

#VD235905 Most A/C models as required for outside air inlet, defrost or diverter door. 4" black plastic, 2 staggered-ports.

(The 1st type was white plastic & 63 Riviera 1st type lower was metal 2pc.)

63-65 Riviera uses 2 of these for upper and lower

=============================

It sure sounds like what I'm looking for, assuming mine are shot.

-BEPNewt

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If I'm reading this right, I can take my old R12 A6 hoses in to an AC specialty shop and they can reuse the old ends on new hose?

That would be killer as I've been scratching my head on how to get a new hose end for the STV (I'm keeping it) but make it match up to all the new plumbing from the Turbo6 relocating the AC compressor to the drivers side of the car.

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Guest u571

I just had the two short hoses redone at an a/c supply place.They could not match the old crimp style on the fitting and to reuse the parts they had to cut off the collar and braze a new hose barb to the pipe and crimp a new collar. A word of caution if you are doing a restoration-make sure you ask to see the hose as I had hoses done at another shop on a BMW I restored and they were printed"made in India" on the hose.NOT COOL!

Mark

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Guest Kingoftheroad
Attaching 4 pics of the diaphragms. Do these even look like the correct ones for a '64?

Decided to add a few more in case you guys see anything that jumps out at you.

-BEP

The only thing that jumps out at me is the vacuum diaphragm, mine have 2 vacuum nipples on the front. I'll take a few pics & post em in a little bit.

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The only thing that jumps out at me is the vacuum diaphragm, mine have 2 vacuum nipples on the front. I'll take a few pics & post em in a little bit.

I'm so glad you said this and posted those pics. I was confused by what I saw on my car vs. what Jim C. was saying and also what the ClassicBuick.com site was showing for replacements. Everything pointed to them having 2 nipples vs. the 1 that mine have.

Thanks!

-BEPNewt

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  • 4 months later...

Diaphragm ordered for my STV. Odd how something as small as ordering a part can make you feel good.

The reason I asked the question one post above is I'm not sure if taking the STV off "opens the system" or something and will let moisture or contaminants in, etc. I'll check the PDF manuals I have to see what they say, but I trust the wisdom and experience of you guys for the tidbits I won't find in a manual.

-BEPNewt

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The reason I asked the question one post above is I'm not sure if taking the STV off "opens the system" or something and will let moisture or contaminants in, etc. I'll check the PDF manuals I have to see what they say, but I trust the wisdom and experience of you guys for the tidbits I won't find in a manual.

-BEPNewt

Brian, yes, this will "open the system". A short time being open will not be an issue, as you will have to vacuum pump the system before it is recharged. But if it will be a couple days or more, need to close it back up. Don't just stuff an old rag in there, the lint will create a bigger problem than the moisture. Closing it with tape should keep you fine for a week or so until you get the new parts. Don't do this for the long term. Tape will dry out and cause more issues than the rag. If it will be more than a week, use a lint free rag to close.

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