waltmail Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 I am looking for a write up on the procedure. Does it come out the left side, right side or bottom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-a-n-i-e-l Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 Have fun.... I have only done it when the engine was out, but I can tell you that you will want about three feet in extentions. This will allow yo to get to the mouninting bolts from about the engine instead of fighting with limited space in between the fire wall and engine. As for taking it out I would imagine that the driverside would be the easiest due to more room around the tranny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltmail Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 Thank you sir. I may be able to use a buddy's lift rack, if I am lucky. Just wondering if the manual has a write up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltmail Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 I found this write up for a 2000 LeSabre. I would imagine this is a similar set up. Anyone care to guess? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEMO Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Do the job on jack stands lift the whole car up level.Not too high,so you can get under it . SPRAY RUST BUSTER ON ALL BOLTS.Use long extensions to reach the 15mm bolts [ i think that is what they were], that hold the rack in. This is done from under the hood of the car.Pull the wheels off,loosen the power steering lines that are connected to the rack,and the pressure sensor wire,remove the steering colume by droping down the 4 bolts that hold it to the dashboard. remove the steering ends of the tie rods. Slide the unit out DRIVERS side of car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 If someone doing the rack replacement would take photos and take notes on the tools needed, bolt sizes, and how to do it, I would be happy to add a write up to the tutorial section of ReattaOwner.com to help others in the future. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltmail Posted May 30, 2011 Author Share Posted May 30, 2011 Do the job on jack stands lift the whole car up level.Not too high,so you can get under it . SPRAY RUST BUSTER ON ALL BOLTS.Use long extensions to reach the 15mm bolts [ i think that is what they were], that hold the rack in. This is done from under the hood of the car.Pull the wheels off,loosen the power steering lines that are connected to the rack,and the pressure sensor wire,remove the steering colume by droping down the 4 bolts that hold it to the dashboard. remove the steering ends of the tie rods. Slide the unit out DRIVERS side of car.One question I have is the necessity to drop the steering column? Thanks for the procedure. That is a Big help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEMO Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 The steering colume is LOWERED down from the dash. This will let you remove the bolt on the bottom which connect the steering shaft to the rack. This bolt is removed and the steering colume shaft will slide up and off the rack.When installing the new rack,the shaft on the replacement rack, MUST BE IN THE SAME postion as the the original so the two will slide together,alowing the bolt to slide in the cut out portion. This will keep the steering wheel from being in a turning postion when you are straight. NOTE: The front wheels are pointed straight too start this job and when you finish they are the same . This will allow you to get to the bolt on the bottom of the steering colume for removal and to install it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltmail Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 The steering colume is LOWERED down from the dash. This will let you remove the bolt on the bottom which connect the steering shaft to the rack. This bolt is removed and the steering colume shaft will slide up and off the rack.When installing the new rack,the shaft on the replacement rack, MUST BE IN THE SAME postion as the the original so the two will slide together,alowing the bolt to slide in the cut out portion. This will keep the steering wheel from being in a turning postion when you are straight. NOTE: The front wheels are pointed straight too start this job and when you finish they are the same . This will allow you to get to the bolt on the bottom of the steering colume for removal and to install it.Aha. Thank you for the info. Makes sense. Did a rack replacement on my '96 Volvo and this will be quite similar. Got very good on that one , as I had it in and out about 3 or 4 times because of a high pressure hose leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 I would appreciate it if someone who has removed the steering rack would look over the writeup I did for removing the rack and tell me if corrections or additions to it are needed. Thanks.Steering Rack Removal Instructions - ReattaOwner.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEMO Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 I have done a few on my cars, Very Good write up. Fit in the fallowing. Loosen lug nuts on front wheels, before lifting car to the jack stands. Lube then, undo power steering lines before unbolting the rack from the car. This is a tight working space to remove the lines. And you do not want to damage these lines. When I install these line I use a little teflon tape,clockwise around the threads, as a way to prevent the threads from seeping out power steering fluid . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltmail Posted November 7, 2011 Author Share Posted November 7, 2011 (edited) If someone doing the rack replacement would take photos and take notes on the tools needed, bolt sizes, and how to do it, I would be happy to add a write up to the tutorial section of ReattaOwner.com to help others in the future. Thanks.Finally did the job. All I can say is ouch. It took me 4 hours to get the 5 bolts out that were holding the rack in. The 2 driver side bolts are better accessed with a socket and about 3 feet of extensions. The 3 passenger side bolts can be accessed through the wheel well and below. Mine were cemented in and I could get maybe one click per swing with a jury rigged extension for the ratchet. BTW, 13mm and 15 mm sockets are all you will need. I did use a tap , 1.5 x 10, to clean out the threads for reassembly. The tie rod ends were almost impossible to get off and I actually broke a bench vise in half trying to remove one, once the rack was out. I gave up and bought replacements, at $15 per side. There is no left and right. Same part # fits both sides. Getting it back in , I encountered a few problems with the steering column knuckle. The boot gets in the way. It was tedious, but I saved bucks and doubt if I could have gotten anyone to even do it at an affordable price. BTW, the rack was $120.00. Edited November 7, 2011 by waltmail (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Walt, did you use the instructions on my website for removing the rack? If so were the useful and accurate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltmail Posted November 7, 2011 Author Share Posted November 7, 2011 Walt, did you use the instructions on my website for removing the rack? If so were the useful and accurate?I did use your procedure. It was helpful. Might need a little tweaking, for specifics, but it is fine as is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 I'm open to any additions or changes to the procedure that would make it better. I've not changed the rack in a Reatta, although I have changed the steering rack in other cars, so I must rely on the experience of others when writing the instructions.Thanks to everyone who contributed to the instructions that are now on ReattaOwner.com! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 I swapped one out on the Black before Ronnies instructions were posted. We did not do anything with the steering column. It was a real pain. The rack was good for about 6 months started leaking again, took it to an alignment place and they did it for I think $300.00 with an alignment. The rack cost me $70.00 at the time from Advance. Don't think I want to try it again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 What do you think of the instructions I have Dave? Would they have helped you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Ronnie, I think they would. But I will let you know when/if I do another... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltmail Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 Its been over a month now, with no leaks and good steering, but I will admit it was testing me the whole time. I took about a week to complete the job, so that I wouldn't start throwing tools around. Ronnie's write up gives good basics. Biggest problems involved cramped location of rack and limited access to the fasteners or "factory overtorqued" bolts. BTW, every fastener is metric. I had a nasty time with the steering column turnbuckle. The boot makes it a PITA. An overhead rack would make this task much simpler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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