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manual choke


Guest zim1

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I have to run a fair amout of choke at higher RPMs to keep the motor form stuttering. The (points and plugs) are the correct gap. Is the carb, running too lean and not getting enought fuel? Or is the carb, air ratio to much? Since I have to choke off some of the air by the choke. Any ideas?

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If it only needs choking at higher rpm it probably is a blockage in the secondary jet in the carb.

Or a float set too low.

It would help to know if it is one of the 27 companies (besides the Ford Motor Company) that made model "A"s :)or whatever other make it might be.:)

With enough information and bandwidth we can solve anything.

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As others have mentioned, a wee bit more information (year, make, model, engine, carb make, carb number, type of fuel delivery system, etc.) would be useful.

However; without this information, and totally firing from the hip, the engine is lean. Possible causes:

(A) Way too large a carburetor

(B) clogged fuel filter

© clogged fuel tank vent

(D) clogged fuel tank "sock"/pickup tube

(E) carburetor float improperly set

(F) cracked fuel line fitting

(G) dirt in the carburetor

(H) defective fuel pump

But before checking any of the above, remember the order of diagnostics:

(A) compression test

(B) ignition test

© then fuel.

Jon.

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It's a 1920 H.C.S. 4 cylinder Weidely engine. Stromberg updraft carb. Electric fuel pump. Thanks for the advice carbking. I was nice for you to stick up for me. What's up with the jab Rusty_OTool. I did check and everything was about sticking chokes. I couldn't find anything about chokes and carb mixture. SORRY!!!

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Oh yeah, Single feed fuel line, single tube stromberg carb that's original to the motor. I agree it could be a float out of adjustment. The carb has never been torn apart or messed with far as the float goes. The spark plugs are carboned up. I'm going to put in some autolite 3077 plugs in. The car has autolite3076 in it now. I don't think those are hot enough. The heat range of the original plugs, I'm not sure of. Carbon could be from weak spark too. One thing at a time. I'm trying to get the choke backfire thing fixed first. I know, lots of things to check and go through.

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Are you running a pressure regulator with the electric pump?

The Stromberg M-2 (original to the H.C.S. in 1920) would require only about 1 pound pressure. Most electric pumps would flood the M-2. If you have one of the dial type regulators (about 19.95 in most parts houses) this could be the issue; as these regulators regulate pressure by regulating volume. One of these, if set low enough to prevent flooding would not pass sufficient fuel for highway running.

In your last post you mention a backfire??? Where? Carburetor or exhaust? A backfire through the carburetor often is indicative of either a burned valve or timing issues. A compression test with low compression on one cylinder might also suggest a valve issue.

Jon.

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Yes, there is a pressure regulator on the fuel line. No, it's not the dial kind. I'll have to buy a pressure gage to see what it's set at. The owners manuel says 2 pounds. That'll be a good start. The car at a higher RPM will hesitate and backfire through the carb. That's with the choke all the way in or off. If I pull it out about a 1/4 inch and go up through the gears. It doesn't hesitate or backfire at all. It runs great. What do you think? I know I will have to buy a few test gages for the fuel and compression tests. I was thinking, when I pull the choke out. It was starving it of air and forcing more fuel into the cylinders. So in my mind it was getting to much air to fuel ratio. But you guys are saying it's to lean. I was thinking it was to rich. I know now, that running with the choke out will cause a rich mixture by pulling more fuel in. Causing the plugs to carbon up.

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It's a pet peeve of mine when people expect accurate information but can't be bothered to give any. I dare say if we had to guess what kind of car it was a 1920 HCS would be pretty far down the list. Please everyone if you expect good answers give us a fighting chance. The Amazing Kreskin hasn't posted here for a while.

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  • 5 weeks later...

If you use a small engine fuel tank with gravity flow to your carb, you can eliminate the fuel pressure question (no pump needed) it will not fix your issue but you can eliminate one potential problem. 1 psi is hard to get with an electric pump. I like original pumps rebuilt to withstand today's fuel. On that note make sure the fuel is new, anything over a few months old is questionable now days.

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Is it safe to spray ordinary carb cleaner into that stromburg carburetor? Maybe it is a plugged secondary jet.

Spraying carb cleaner into the air inlet of the carb will not do anything to clean the jets.

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