Seatbelts

[ksbortner]

I have a 1948 Packard and would like to have seat belts installed so that my 4 year old daughter can safely ride in the car. I am not comfortable installing them myself. Besides a restoration shop, do you have any suggestions as to what sort of places might do that type of installation? I would like to get them installed before spring.

[Guest Doubleclutch]

Any garage can do it. I'm in the process of having some put into my 40 Buick. Bought some really nice ones at good old JC Whitney, various colors and retractable and with the sliding casing so you arn't up under the seat looking for an end. They have mount kits too the anchors should be into a subframe member or use a big 2-3 inch washer under the floor to anchor. I think my installation will consist of drilling holes and frabricating some U brackets.

[Rusty_OToole]

When you install the belts put plates under the bolts so they can't pull through under stress. While you are at it reinforce the seat mountings so the bolts can't pull out of the floor. In a severe crash the seat can come loose and squash you against the belt.

[Guest wagary]

I'll be installing some kind of safety-belt in my 1963 F-100. Thanks for reminding me to reinforce the factory bench seat mountings.

First I need to finish repairing the kingpins. Good success today!

I got the one pin on the driver's side to move at least .063- .125 inches. I only have room to work on one side of the truck at a time.

I heated up the axle then the pin, then the axle, then the pin. I had a large C-clamp applying some pressure to the striking nut I installed since yesterday, but removed it after the first round of heating. I hammered at that mickey mouse deal attached to the top of the pin until it moved.

I took pictures of this fooling around, but don't know where to post them on this site. I tend to get so long winded, maybe there's a special area for wind-bags like myself who like to go on and on, etc.

Edited March 11, 2011 by wagary
spelling,formatting. (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

This is driving me crazy. Any auto machine shop could push the pin out in 2 minutes on a hydraulic press. Why you don't take the pin kit and axle to a shop and have it done right is a mystery to me. You will spend days working on it, do a lousy job, and save less than $100.

I'm waiting to see how you hone the bushings to size without a Sunnen hone. That should be interesting.

[Bhigdog]

Errr, aaaah, You did remove the pin locking bolt, right?..........Bob

[Guest wagary]

About the kingpins in my 1963 F-100, yes any competent machine shop would have the entire operation done much, much, quicker than I'm getting it done.

If I was pulling the axle out of the truck, I would have probably dropped it off somewhere and had the worn parts removed and the new kingpin kits installed in a more orthodox manner.

I'm living in a townhome-condominium and stuck working on the truck in a small one car garage in Minnesota. I also have three motorcycles in the garage and space is at a premium. I've been doing things this way for almost twenty years now and haven't been completely stumped yet. I would probably not be able to overhaul an engine here, so I usually don't attempt that kind of job. (Except motorcycle engines)

Mostly I've followed the procedure from the 1961 Ford service manual(with the 1962-63 supplement) for the F-100 to F-800 series truck. I only attempted this job because I needed to do it and I have that service manual.

It looked like something I could accomplish without needing special tools other than a torch and a reamer. The book says to lift truck, remove axle, drive pins out from top of axle (BY HAND), remove bushings. Install bushings in spindle, line ream (BY HAND) to fit new pins. Replace spindle bearings in between spindle arm and axle and drive pin through (BY HAND).

So far it's been going like that, except my truck has been sitting still for ten plus years. It's a lot older than the truck used in the manual, and many things are rusted together. (Hence, the heating torch)

I did remove the spindle bolt locking pin first thing- if that wouldn't have come out, I wouldn't have tried doing this job in my tiny, ill-equipped garage. I was curious if I could even remove the brake carrier plate next- that hardware looked terrible. Once everything was loose, I just kept going. The spindle bolt was tighter than I expected, but then I've never tried to remove one before. (I posted some pics in the '37 Pontiac bad kingpins thread)

I plan on using a reamer by hand with a large tap handle to fit the new pin(s). If that turns into a mistake I'll use a machine shop. I used to do that kind of work, so I think everything will be o.k.

Anyway, I hope I can offer encouragement to those trying to do things without having the right combination of tools and talent.

Someday, I'll have that combination myself.

[Bhigdog]

I've seen some amazing work done in some God awful places. Good for you ............bob

Edited March 13, 2011 by Bhigdog (see edit history)

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Hang in there,wagary. Never say never and don't give up. Lots of us in simillar situation.

Ben