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Engine Mounts & Rear Seal

Ron Luchene

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Time to work on my Riviera to-do list. Replaced the pinion seal this weekend. One leak down and two more to go. A couple of quick questions.

1. Can the engine mounts be replaced without pulling the engine on a 65'? 4 of the 6 bolts are pretty accessible but want to ensure I can get the motor high enough to replace the mounts before tackling the job.

2. The rear seal is leaking oil. I am guessing that the rope seal needs to be replaced. Can the oil pan be removed with the engine in the car?

As always, I appreciate the answers/advice.

Thanks - Ron

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1. You can change motor mounts without pulling the engine. I just had that done on my '64. I didn't do it myself, but if you have a lift and a jack, it can be done. Without a lift it would be really difficult.

2. You cannot pull the pan on these engines without pulling the engine.

I've not it, but perhaps if you could lift the engine with a hoist (remove the hood, pull the distributor, etc.) you could

1. install new motor mounts and at the same time

2. pull the pan.

If you're replacing the rear seal, you should consider using a neoprene seal instead of the original rope seal.


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I replaced the motor mounts on my 63 with a floor jack without a lift. It sounds crude, but I loosened all the existing mounts, put a block of wood under the pan, jacked the engine about 1/4 inch and replaced then one side at a time. It takes a little patience to get them in there, but it works. SERIOUSLY watch your fingers. NEVER get so comfortable under there that you position your fingers between the engine and the mounts. If the jack slips...you lose a finger. Good luck and be really careful. PRL

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Thanks for the responses guys. The local mechanic says he can replace the mounts for an hour of labor so that sounds like the safest route. The seal will have to wait for now. The oil leak is pretty small...maybe a spot about the size of a quarter in a few weeks time. Just a nuisance really. Thanks again!

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I removed the oil pan without removing the engine. It was over 20 years ago and what I remember was the few bolts just above the frame crossmember had to be turned a tiny turn at a time. They are short bolts but it did take a while. Also, I disconnected the bolts to the motor mounts from the frame and raised the motor with a floor jack and a block of wood under the trans. I cannot remember if I had to rotate the crankshaft so the pan would clear, but that is sometimes needed. Although it was a pain doing the job on my back, I think I would rather do it that way than pull the motor. Just my 2 cents.

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