bhclark Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 No before pictures. I never take before pictures. These were rusty, but not caked with rust. The die went back in...the screw loosened up, but the die was still rusted to the handle.See the bubbles? Somethings at work here. See the mold? Can you smell it from there?I just dumped in a load of taps and dies....again, I forgot to take a before picture.Second picture is straight out of the mix, third is after a hot water rinse and light scrubbing with a nylon brush. Most could probably use a second bath, but are good enough for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wogden Posted December 24, 2010 Share Posted December 24, 2010 While I have never attemted the molasses bath, I have followed many threads on other forums regarding it's performance. I have seen an entire model A body immersed in the solution with astounding results and more recently a complete flathead Ford v8 which came out with absolutely clean water jackets. I have tried the vinegar bath on small parts and after two days typically I wash the parts and run them thru the bead blaster with good results. Much like the molasses the vinegar is bio degradeable which supports our "green reasoning" here in the green mountain state. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22george Posted December 26, 2010 Author Share Posted December 26, 2010 The rusted washers and bolts sat in the bucket in my unheated garage for thelast 3 weeks. The temperature has ranged from 7 to 28 degrees. I brought them inand cleaned them off today.It did remove all the rust on 98% of the washers andbolts. It didn't remove the paint or tar - whatever else was on them. I wassuprised the mixture wasn't frozen solid. It was all still liquid - no ice atall.Now that I know it works I will get some type of larger tank or tub to putmy fenders etc. in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhclark Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 22George.My solution has become quite moldy and stinky....did you experience the same issue?I'm surprised you got the same effect at such low temperatures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest garys64wildcat Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 This may be a dumb question. But here goes. I have a set of original 64 Buick Rallys. They have a lot of rust on the inside of the rims. Will this solution damage the chrome? the chrome is decent original, but there is rust that I cant get to with the wire brush. Thanks Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22george Posted December 27, 2010 Author Share Posted December 27, 2010 Yea, I was suprised also that it worked in the cold temperature. I originally had the mixture in the house and it did begin to stink. That's why I put it in the garage. My better half didn't like it. The youtube video I got the idea from said the stink and mold don't affect it - it still works. It also said it will take paint off but it hasn't so far for me. I don't know about chrome. If you have an old rusty kitchen knife I would try it first before I tried it on a chrome wheel.Reid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hddennis Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 This may be a dumb question. But here goes. I have a set of original 64 Buick Rallys. They have a lot of rust on the inside of the rims. Will this solution damage the chrome? the chrome is decent original, but there is rust that I cant get to with the wire brush. Thanks GaryGary, I can only tell you of my own personal experience as different factors such as strength and time may or may not change results. I had a nickel plated radiator cap that I wanted to improve the appearance. It cleaned beautifully and got rid of all the rust but what I found was I lost another 20 % of the plating because it was rusted underneath the plating further than I could originally see and the molasses ate the rust under the plating until it reached an area that the plating still was intact. Howard Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22george Posted December 27, 2010 Author Share Posted December 27, 2010 I watched the youtube video on using molasses to remove rust. It does not remove paint. sorry for the misinformationReid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HotRodTom Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 I just wanted to make another positive comment about the molasses rust removal.I put the water pump from my Lycoming into the mix (using the liquid feed-type molasses)I pulled it out yesterday after being in there for nearly a year (I've been busy) and the crud and sludge just poured right out of it, and it looks like raw cast iron in most places. I was worried that I had left it too long, and especially with the hard freezes we had this winter, but it came out great. After a thorough washing with the hose and scrubbing with a stainless wire brush, there was a little bit of grease and grime on it, so I dropped it into my parts washer.If any of you have done this before, you know the part will flash rust nearly instantly, so putting it directly into the parts washer stops that. I have also placed parts directly into my oil change pan if its something I will not be painting anytime soon.Now I just need a big enough container to put seat springs into! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22george Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 I used a DA sander to remove the remaining paint where l could and a wire wheel dor the rest of the areas. Then I soaked the fenders in molasses for a month. no rust. I cleaned them off with water, used compressed air and the sun to dry them as quickly as possible and sprayed epoxy primer on them. I am happy with the results The first picture is after removed from the molasses tank with the molasses "crusties" still on it. The other 3 are after l sprayed it with water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22george Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 I used a DA sander to remove the remaining paint where l could and a wire wheel to do the rest of the areas. Then I soaked the fenders in molasses for a month. no rust. I cleaned them off with water, used compressed air and the sun to dry them as quickly as possible and sprayed epoxy primer on them. I am happy with the results The first picture is after removed from the molasses tank with the molasses "crusties" still on it. The other 3 are after l sprayed it with water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22george Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 I used a DA sander to remove the remaining paint where l could and a wire wheel dor the rest of the areas. Then I soaked the fenders in molasses for a month. no rust. I cleaned them off with water, used compressed air and the sun to dry them as quickly as possible and sprayed epoxy primer on them. I am happy with the results.I don't know what happened the first time, butl did attach the photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 I tried the Molasses rust remover trick and was amased how well it works. I would sugguest that you go over the part with 60 grit on a DA and get the heaviest rust off first. You dont have to be fussy, just the heavy stuff. It cuts the time way down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigaadams Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 it works..but slow as molasses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max BURKE Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 G,day to all and IvanSounds to me Ivan you are speaking of Arthur Lang with his Molassis pit. Jim Hoy has one of similar size above ground. You need to be a young man when you put your chassis in as you will be old and grey when you take it out, that is if you want it to be sand blast standard. As I am 72 and getting older by the minute "I aint got the time left mate!"Max BURKE Nulkaba Australia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hddennis Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Arthur, must be running a VERY watery mixture as I've never needed more than a week to see excellent results.Howard Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max BURKE Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 G,day to all and HowardDont know what mixture Arthur used but you can bet he had an unlimited supply of molassis for his hole in the ground. U see Arthur had an interstate haulage truck and Molassis when mixed with urea is a stock feed supliment.I dare say he got those 44 gallon drums at a verrrry attractive price.I expect the strip time matters little if you drop it in and do something else while it pickles but being impatient I still use my sand blaster and regulate the air pressure. It does not buckle panels but uses plenty of sand. Smalls up to wheel rim size we do in the cabinet . Max Burke Nulkaba Australia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jeff Hon Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 While I have never attemted the molasses bath, I have followed many threads on other forums regarding it's performance. I have seen an entire model A body immersed in the solution with astounding results and more recently a complete flathead Ford v8 which came out with absolutely clean water jackets. I have tried the vinegar bath on small parts and after two days typically I wash the parts and run them thru the bead blaster with good results. Much like the molasses the vinegar is bio degradeable which supports our "green reasoning" here in the green mountain state.Can you provide any additional information about the Ford V8 engine block? Was anything done to prevent future rusting? How was the block flushed after the molasses dip? I'm contemplating using this method on a 1938 Pontiac 6 that is together and in the car. My intention is to remove the thermostat and block off the lower radiator hose or remove the water pump too and block off the block outlet. With those commenting that a coating must be applied to prevent future rusting, will antifreeze/water solution with perhaps an extra rust inhibitor additive protect the cleaned water passages? Thanks for any comments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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