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Power Brake Booster Install Help


nifty 6

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I am trying to find the easiest way of re-install a power brake booster in a 56 Olds. It can't be installed from under the car, I don't think? Do I attach the holding plate to the booster and try to position it in the floor board? Enclosed pictures. One picture shows a round black donut shape and I don't know where that goes? Also another picture show a silver plate, no idea where that goes?

So what is my best approach to reinstalling the booster

Thanks

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hi nifty6, you're right about bolting the treadle vac first to the floor plate, the black donut should be for the edge of the carpet going around the pedal rod and bellow. i put a treadle vac unit into my 53 pontiac, using the 54 pontiac power brake parts, granted the parts look alittle different, but work the same way. that silver plate looks to be a support piece or perhaps retains the black donut to the floor. charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor.

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Yup, bolt the booster to the floor plate then install it from inside the car. It would be a good idea to use some body seam sealer around the edge to seal the plate to the floor when installing. Then you will have to attach the brake line and hoses and bleed the brakes from underneath the car :( Good luck, Todd

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Thanks to all for your help. I installed the booster from inside the car as suggested, a pain but it worked. Now I have another problem. Before installig the booster I tried to puch on the piston to see if it would move, it didn't. I thought maybe I wasn't able to push hard enough by hand as I am equipped with skinny weak guns (arms). When installed I tried to pushing the brake peddle with my foot and it still didn't move. I pushed as hard as I could and even hammered it with my foot, no movement what so ever. It was rebuilt by a very reputable rebuilder that does a lot of work for the well known restoration shops in my area and across the country. I haven't hooked up the vacuum hose as yet but I don't think it will make any difference. Unless I did something wrong, what? and I don't think so looks like I will have to remove it and send it back to the rebuilder. Vintage cars, can't live with them and can't live without them, sound familiar? Modern cars with the engine off the brake peddle will still move so I think it is no different with a 54 year old power system? I contacted the rebuilder and he suggested hooking up the vacuum line and to check the reservoir as they might have put in a cloth to prevent any brake fluid to leak out, WHAT. no fluid in it at all and besides the reservoir is sealed... DUH. just a short dip stick to check the level. Its not like a modern booster with a removal lid... I wonder if these guys know what they are doing...why me...lol

Ron...

Edited by nifty 6 (see edit history)
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Hi Ron, sorry to hear about the problem. IMO if you cannot move the cylinder with the foot pedal it needs to come out for testing on the workbench.

Maybe my friend Pontiac1953 can chime in too, but if it were me I would carefully remove the rubber bellows and the plate that it attaches to at the rear of the booster. You can do this without affecting the master cylinder unit. Inside you will find a leather seal that may be stuck to the inside surface of the power booster. If so, carefully free the seal without tearing it and clean up the surface with very fine sandpaper, maybe 600 grit. Reattach the plate and see if it moves now, and if so you are probably OK.

Charles, at this point would you bench bleed before reinstall?

Ron, if any parts are damaged they are available from Kanter.com, or you can call your expert rebuilder. Good luck and let us know how it goes, Todd C

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hi, like todd spoke of, sounds like your leather piston real is stuck to the cylinder wall of the booster, best to go ahead and remove it and get it on a workbench, even rebuilt units if they sit unused for a long time will have a chance of this problem. it does not require much pressure to the pedal rod to make the booster piston move if everything is in good working condition. yes i would bench bleed the master cylinder, and bleed it again once mounted back in the car. you'll find almost all the internal parts listed by kanter on ebay motors as well. charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor, poci.

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  • 2 weeks later...
hi, like todd spoke of, sounds like your leather piston real is stuck to the cylinder wall of the booster, best to go ahead and remove it and get it on a workbench, even rebuilt units if they sit unused for a long time will have a chance of this problem. it does not require much pressure to the pedal rod to make the booster piston move if everything is in good working condition. yes i would bench bleed the master cylinder, and bleed it again once mounted back in the car. you'll find almost all the internal parts listed by kanter on ebay motors as well. charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor, poci.

I have been in contact with the rebuilder of the booster and will be returning it for them to get it back into working order as it should be. One thing I am 99% sure the unit given back to me does not appear to be the unit I gave them so you may be right in that the one they gave me has been on the shelf for a long period of time. Just awapped it out. But I would have at least thought they would check it first before giving the unit back to me?

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  • 3 weeks later...
Hey nifty 6, any more news on this project? Todd C

Had to return the booster to the re-builder to look at it to see why the piston wouldn't move. They returned it and now the piston is moving as it should. They said their was an issue with diaphragm that connects to the rod, they replaced it and retested it. If it was tested after the rebuild it should have been caught. I don't think that the booster they sent me was my original I gave them. I think they just took one off the shelf and sent me that one and if it was sitting on a shelf for a long time the leather could stick and hold the rod from moving.

Thanks to every ones in put..

Ron

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  • 6 months later...
Had to return the booster to the re-builder to look at it to see why the piston wouldn't move. They returned it and now the piston is moving as it should. They said their was an issue with diaphragm that connects to the rod, they replaced it and retested it. If it was tested after the rebuild it should have been caught. I don't think that the booster they sent me was my original I gave them. I think they just took one off the shelf and sent me that one and if it was sitting on a shelf for a long time the leather could stick and hold the rod from moving.

Thanks to every ones in put..

Ron

Finally got the rebuilt booster installed in my 56 after sending it back to be rebuilt as the piston was stuck. I reinstalled from under the car, bolted the plate to the floor first and then bolted the booster to the plate from underneath, much easier. Now I have another question, see pictures,

There is a wire that goes to the starter that has a sleeve with a clamp, where does this bolt to? Is the wire routed properly? any pictures would be appreciated. Should I use dot 3? not sure what is in the lines right now. Read the sticky on Dot 5. Thinking opening all the bleeders and just blow the lines and use Dot 5 ...thoughts..

Thanks to everybody for their input.

Ron

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  • 2 weeks later...
hi nifty 6, that's your car's positive battery cable, and it goes to the large terminal on the starter solenoid, use dot 3 brake fluid, charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor.

Thanks for the reply on the dot 3 as it confirms what I will use. the shelve on the that wire I am wondering where it bolts on to?

Thanks

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that support tube for the battery cable should mount somewhere on the inner fender, so that it will keep the cable away from the hot exhaust manifold. charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor.

Thats what I am thinking also, just need to find a bolt or? that attaches to on the fender,

Thanks for your help

Ron

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