Fire extinguisher type?

[Chris Bamford]

I want to ensure we've got the required type/size fire extinguisher in our car for the Hershey meet...

From what I understand, Type ABC will leave a somewhat permanent residue on metal and painted surfaces. This is from the A/wood/paper/trash component of the contents. The guide I read did not recommend them for kitchens (re residue on appliances) or automobiles, for that reason.

The guide recommends a Type BC extinguisher for both kitchen and automobile, which is intended for B/gasoline/oil fires, and C/electrical fires.

The AACA 2010 judging guidelines call for an approved UL or equivalent extinguisher to be present in the car, but I cannot find what specific type is approved.

I have my eye on a 2-lb BC unit which will should fit nicely in a particular spot in the driving compartment. Is this acceptable to AACA? Any other comments?

[MCHinson]

That is fine. There is no specific size or type required, simply UL approved or equivalent.

[Shop Rat]

I have my eye on a 2-lb BC unit which will should fit nicely in a particular spot in the driving compartment. Is this acceptable to AACA? Any other comments?

You do want to make sure that if you carry the extinguisher inside the passenger compartment of the car when it is on the road, that it can't become a projectile in the event of a wreck. That doesn't mean to actually mount it to the car, just secure it so that it can't move while the car is in motion.

At the show most owners put the extinguisher flat on the ground up against the front of a front tire or in the trunk area. Flat on the ground is safer for the vehicle so that the extinguisher can't be knocked over into the vehicle and cause damage.

Edited September 16, 2010 by Shop Rat (see edit history)

[Chris Bamford]

Just four minutes for the answer and a valuable tip barely 24 minutes later. This forum is great.

[R Walling]

A fire extingusher guide

http://www.chubb.com.au/utcfs/ws-582/Assets/What%20Extinguisher.pdf

Note that the discharge time is only between 8 and 35 seconds depending on the size. Aim correctly.

[Guest bkazmer]

a 2 BC sounds small to me - I would keep at least a 5 BC - a 10 is very little cost more. You hope you throw it away unused, but if you need it, you're going to want it to do the job.

[MCHinson]

He did not say a 2BC rated extinguisher.... He said a 2 pound BC extinguisher.

[R Walling]

Fire Extinguisher,Vehicle, 2 Lb.

Item # 2LBP5

Fire Extinguisher, Vehicle, UL Rating 5-B:C, Size 2 Lb., Cylinder Material Steel, Operating Pressure 100 PSI, Height 10 1/4 In., Dia. 2.906 In.

[MCHinson]

Bottom line is it is adequate to meet the requirements for the show. It is OK. That does not mean that there is anything wrong with using a larger one. I personally choose to carry a significantly larger fire extinguisher in my antique car.

[Shop Rat]

I know that once upon a time it was recommended to shake extinguishers to make sure the material in them stayed loose so that it would operate correctly. That in time if they weren't shaken the material could compact down and it wouldn't operate correctly. Is that still true for modern fire extinguishers?

[Guest bkazmer]

yes, shake down or inversion still a good idea. Discard if older than 12 years regardless of gauge reading recomended. I was awake for that part of refresher training but obviously not for capacity vs rating.

[Guest Model T Nick]

If you are on the open road BIGGER is better! At an AACA meet there will be 15 empty extinguishers in the first 30 seconds of a hint of a fire.

[Shop Rat]

yes, shake down or inversion still a good idea. Discard if older than 12 years regardless of gauge reading recomended. I was awake for that part of refresher training but obviously not for capacity vs rating.

Thanks. I just thought I would ckeck to see if the newer ones needed to be maintained by shaking/inverting them.

[Guest Robin Coleman]

Dry powder extinguishers will, over time, compact their powder by settling. This is why they must be serviced preiodically and have a tag affixed to them showing the service date. There are also two types of them, those that carry the pressure charge internally and those that have a small cylinder of gas attached to the side. The externally charged extinguishers can have the gas cylinder 'tripped' without the extinguisher being used, which will quickly render the extinguisher useless. Internal charge extinguishers will have a gauge on them to indicate the go no go amount of pressure available. externally charged types will have a small clear dome on the lid with a red pin that sticks up like a flag if the charge has been released.

They do leave behind a resdue which gets into everything and is very abrasive to engine internals. A CO2 type will not do this, but they are much more expensive to buy and are more difficult to use properly. Since they carry a high pressure internally they must be periodically hydrostatically tested. There are businesses that do this for a nominal fee in every decent sized city. A CO2 type would be the choice for an engine fire.

The best extinguisher made will do you no good at all if you can't access it when it is needed. One that is too small will not last long enough to get the job done.

Halon extinguishers are great except for two things....They are no longer made for the average person to have and they are useless in an outdoor environment or anywhere there is the slightest breeze. They were very expensive even back when they were still legal. I always carried one in my airplane for cockpit/ engine fires.

BTW, not bragging, but in order to explain my qualifications for posting this response, I am a retired (25yrs) vol. firefighter/ EMT.

[Bill Boudway]

Hi,

Size depends on how big the fire will be and how much you value your vehicle.

Go for the big one.

Dry chemical is most effective, but makes a big mess.

Halon and CO2 will do the job, but the effectiveness will depend on wind, etc., as the agents are vapor.

[Bill Boudway]

Hi,

Quick PS on the last post.

Be sure to invert your dry chemical extinguisher periodically and tap it to shake the agent loose.

The agent will settle and compact over time and may not discharge when you need it.

[mrspeedyt]

i saw one guy that had a one gallon metal can (like a paint thinner can) with a very large diameter cap to allow the contents (baking soda) to be poured out onto a fire. can was painted to match the car paint and was secured in the trunk. he also had a regular extinguisher mounted in the interior.

[Guest Silverghost]

I had an SU carb fire on my MGTD years ago. The float stuck & the chamber overflowed.

I grabbed the dry chemical extinguisher in my garage and gave it a 5 second burst.

Fire went out quickly ~

It then took days to clean up the baking soda powder mess !

It went everywhere on the car !

Only Slight damage to the underhood paint.

I consider myself very lucky !