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finding a key for my ignition


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A past owner of my studebaker bypassed the keyed ignition in favor of a toggle switch mounted on the quarterpanel. I'd like to go back to the keyed version and have read some old posts regarding people having old keys/keys on ebay/etc and knowing which one by a number printed on the lock. My question is - is the number referred to on the front of the lock mechanism itself (the 'face' where the key goes in)? Is that what I'm looking for? I don't even know that the lock itself works, but need a key to start the process with.

Also, I've seen posts regarding this being a location of pot metal - so I'm guessing I should 'unclamp' it from the steering shaft to check for damage. Or, alternately, have others out there found a viable replacement keyed ignition assembly that fits this particular housing?

Robert

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Yes, the number I had referred to in another post was the number imprinted or stamped on the face of the tumbler. When I had my Studebaker I somehow managed to find a handfull of keys before finding original keys that were the correct number - two of which I machined down & silver-soldered the working end of a modern key so I had a scripted one in the dash. The difference there was that the key in the 24 locked the switch in the off position - and was not an ignition key as one would presume.

Post the number on your lock and I'll see what i have for keys.

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Sorry guys...forgot to mention it is for my '29 Dictator!

The key face has "ST815" stamped on it, as well as an "M" in a seperate location.

Hope someone out there can help me....Meanwhile, it's off to a little town in Oregon to drive in a parade with the '29, and a good buddy driving my '48 behind it this weekend.

Have a great 4th!

Robert

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry - I was away for a bit.

I went thru all of my keys and here is what I could find:

For Miller locks: (2) numbered ST838 - one is not script; For Yale Junior locks: ST239, ST240, and S1172

And I also have one Rockne scpipted key for a Yale Junior lock numbered S1082

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I have a locksmiths set of original studebaker wheel scripped keys. over 100 and it skips from st813 to st817. sorry.

So close!

I'm wondering if just replacing the cylinder with a new lock would be the better choice, or taking the cylinder to a locksmith to make a new key. With the later choice, I can always keep searching.....:)

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Guest stude8

This subject comes up every so often and there are some previous threads that contain photos and description about the problems you face with the column mounted "Theft Proof" locks on late 1920's Studebakers. Keep in mind the term "Theft Proof" means "Service Proof" also.

Review these threads:

http://forums.aaca.org/f126/1926-duplex-phaeton-side-curtains-256858.html

also -228446; -228447; -223852

Stude8

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Guest stude8

Just a suggestion that this forum can be searched for previous thread contents easily that have been discussed in the past.

At Tool Bar under AACA logo above click on "Search"

from drop down menu click on "Advanced Search"

In Advanced Search page enter your interest in "Keyword" [ignition lock]

In Select forums category scroll down and click on "Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne"

Click on "Search Now"

Your search will yield a line by line history of relative threads you can open and read. Pictures and all answers from responders included.

Stude8

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One more thought hit me about these keys - in 1924 the same key unlocked the ignition switch, the transmission lock, and a tool compartment in the drivers door - changing one lock out would have done no good which is why i went thru the trouble with the key at that time.

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