alex bonino Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Making progress on getting to a nice, solid rust free trunk pan. If anyone has a line on a lower rear right quarter (inner and outer) panel, from the molding crease down, please give me a holler. 1964.Thanks!alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim63riv Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Alex,You are obviously a man who likes a challenge! My hat's off to you and it's 9 degrees in Minnesota today! LOL!Baron Night is a ROA regional coordinator from L.A. and he told me that the GM "A" bodies (Chevelle, Skylark, GTO, Cutlass) trunk pan from 64 to 67 was a VERY close match to 63-65 Rivieras and they are widely available from the aftermarket. I don't think Baron is on this list, so his email address is nitrovb@netzero.nethe may have more detail for you!Good Luck with the project!Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gungeey Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 TRUNK FLOOR PAN, BUICK 1963 64 65 RIVIERA....NEW!!!:eBay Motors (item 200426558079 end time Jan-16-10 19:42:49 PST) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 It looks like it might be an okay piece, but the biggest problem that faces 1st generation Riviera owners is not addressed with this piece. The first place rust showed up on my '63 was in the floor pan, but it was in the body mount cup that is part of the floor pan. The piece does not have those cups on it. I think they're about a 36 C.If you have rust in your trunk, you better check to see that the rear window seal isn't broken. The design of the window channel leaves no place for moisture to go and the seal will crack and pretty soon the channel gets a rust hole in it. From there the moisture finds it's way into the trunk floor. Right over where the cup is so this area of the floor gets attacked from the top and the bottom. I bought the last set of floor pans with cups from Ken at Wheatbelt about two years ago. He may have gotten some in since then, but they are getting scarce. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex bonino Posted January 17, 2010 Author Share Posted January 17, 2010 Hello again gentlemen, as always, thanks for the responses. I should have been clearer about what I was looking for.I do, in fact, have a replacement trunk pan from a CA car, which is going to go in as the replacement. It has solid body mounting cups, which as Ed points out were way far gone on the original pan (see photo).Rather, what I am looking for is a side, rear lower quarter panel on the right (pass) side. I have attached the interior view of the piece I need. Essentially, it consists of the outer exterior sheet metal from the molding rib on down, and the interior support metal. I have been contacting some folks on ebay who appear as if they are parting out cars, so hopefully I can find what I need.And yes, Ed, we will be removing the rear backlite, and cutting out and repairing the portions of the window body flange in the corners.I'm submitting these progress pics in the hopes someone else can use them as a reference, because as has been pointed out, these are common rust repair areas on the first generation Rivs.take care!alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim63riv Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Alex,A couple sorces for used sheet metal:Wheatbelt Antique AutoKen Reeves (nice guy!)Carrier OKPhone 580-855-2449email: wheatbeltbuick@att.netI was there about 5 years ago and he had a number of rust free 63-65 Riv parts cars.There are other vendors in the Riview that handle used parts and not all of them have a presence on this forum, so don't hesitate to check them out, too!Good Luck with the search!Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhnova65 Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Hi Gents. I've been away from the car for about a year now due to other responsibilities around the house but finally had some time to get back into it. After quite a bit of repairs to the front side of the passenger quarter panel, I worked my way back into the wheel tub and found some more rust which lead to the aforementioned trunk issue. I spotted this thread and figured I'd offer my two cents in case anyone finds it useful. The rust appeared as a hole in the wheel tub right in front of the body bushing cup so I investigated further into the trunk and found the rot in the trunk pan right above the mount (my car is FULL of evil sins that were covered up by the previous owners attempt at restoration). After cutting out that section of the floor, I noticed that the body cup was heavily rotted away and would need to be fixed. To make things easier, I cut the floor out further to expose the whole body cup and removed it. I decided it would be best to repair the cup instead of fabricating an entire new one which didn't seem necessary since a good portion of the cup was solid enough to re-install. I started by making a paper template for the sides of the cup and transferring it to a piece of 18-gauge steel. After cutting it out, I simply tack welded the beginning of the piece at the start of the side and just worked my way around the cup bending it with my hand and forming it with a body hammer. The new piece was simply placed over the old sides which were left to use as a form. Once that was tacked into place along the top flange, I made another template for the entire bottom section. After cutting out the new piece of metal, I cut out the rotted steel since it was too far rotted and I needed a clean mating surface for the body bolt. Using the same procedure as the sides, I tacked the flat section on first and then hand formed the transition up the front side along with some persuasion from a body hammer to form a nice tight fit. Once it was all tacked together, I finished the welds and re-installed it with new body bushings. After that was completed, the rest of the floor patch was completed along with repairs to the inner wheel tub. Both sides of the trunk were rotted in the same fashion so the repairs were done for each side although only one cup had to be rebuilt in this fashion. the other was pretty solid so I just reinforced the floor of the cup on the inside by tacking a flat piece to the steel to the inside and drilling out the hole for the body bolt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest REX STALLION Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Great job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pearville Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Beautiful work, wish I could weld like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Buick Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 (edited) Hello EveryoneI have just purchased two Rivieras, (1969 GS and a 1983 307cubic inch Convertible), both are in need of work and I would like to ask if anyone has for sale the chassis and body books for both models? I will also have to deal with a rust issue on the 1969 GS around the rear fender wheel arches and ask for your advice as to what would be the best course of action here? Can you buy after market or NOS rear fender wheel arches or good second hand parts or is it a repair and patch job? Where do you look for vinyl tops these days?Thank you RegardsJohnSioux Falls SD Edited December 1, 2013 by Johnny Buick posted in wrong place (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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