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1909 Model 10 Touring Info


Guest fleetwood41

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Guest fleetwood41

Just registered and doing my first post. Have questions regarding 1909 Buick Model 10 Touring that I am bringing back to life. It sat for 33 years, was completly restored about 40 years ago. The engine does turn over. The gas tank was empty, no gelled gas, but light surface rust in the tank that will have to be cleaned out. My questions:

Is the serial number or ID number on the frame on the right (driver's) side?

Where can I obtain exact starting procedudres, ie: spark retard, gas setting etc for cranking it up? I understand you don't push down on the crank when starting, what other precautions are to be observed. As is apparent, I have never started any auto with a crank, so I am asking dumb questions in lieu of making dumb mistakes.

Any info would be most appreciated.

Thanks!<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

(originally posted in general forum, received response suggesting to post here, thanks in advance for any & all info)

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Nice video on your model at this site.

1909 Buick Model 10 - Video

Do a google search on your model too, lots of information on it. Post a couple pics of your car we would love to see it.

I am sure folks know how to start it and will give you good suggestions for starting.

My engine was stuck, rings to the cylinder, just a pencil line was enough to stop it. Used Kroil oil, and that did it. Used other stuff, but nothing worked. Took me the winter to get her free. Runs great now and starts easily.

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Guest fleetwood41

THANK YOU John for the response & suggestions.

Have Googled it several times, have not found everything yet. I am working this for the owner. I have participated in shows with Buick guys but the only club I belong to is the CLC at present.

Will post some before and after photos soon, as I am nearing completion of the cosmetics. Never have seen so much brass, much less clean & polish it all, & then polish off fingerprints after re-installing on the car.

Thanks again,

Virgil Perkins

Perk's Garage

Indianapolis, IN

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Guest DaveCorbin

Dear Virgil:

There really are two numbers you want to know. The first is the "frame number" and the second is the "engine number" The frame number is usually on a small oval brass tag on the top front of the right frame rail and the engine number will be stamped (not cast) on the front of one of those big support ears at the rear of the engine. If the car is actually a 1909, the numbers will not be the same, but both will be between 4003 and 12102.

Many Buicks are misdated by a year as the states in the early days ignored the Manufacturer's model year and used the date the car was first registered. Thus, a late 1908 might be registered as a 1909 or an early 1910 could also be registered as a 1909.

I'll be glad to help you and your owner on this.

Regards, Dave Corbin

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Guest fleetwood41

Hello Dave,

Appreciate the info, will hunt'em down Friday or Saturday as I start detailing the engine ompartment. The quest for info is more on my behalf than the owner's, Will get back to you afterward.

Thanks,

Virgil

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest NevyClark

Hi, I have a 1908 Buick model 10. To start, both the spark and the gas lever should be at 1 O'clock. Thick oil should be squirted on top of the valve springs for the first start of the day. When the engine is cold, I always do 2 "dead" cranks to "limber up" the engine and to move the gas forward. When cranking, use a monkey hand grip - do not lap your thumb around - you might get a back kick. Turn on the battery switch (if you have one - not a neceissity), making sure the hand brake is pulled all the way up. Facing the car, the crank on your left, 2 or 3 jerks clockwise should start it (one when warm - winding is not advised). When It fires, move the spark down to 4 O'clock and push the gas lever up so the engine idles instead of racing. If you plan to do a lot of touring, an electric starter is nice.

You are right: the car is loaded with brass and in my humid and hot climate, it only takes a week to 10 days for it to all blacken up. I bit the bullet and sent all my brass for treating to Rick Britten (Britten's Brass): expensive as hell, but I thought I was worth it.

If you are looking to really enjoy your Buick model 10, I suggest you join the Horseless Carriage Club of America (check out the HCCA web-site). You will find there many cars like yours and people with the same interest and tons of enthusiam.

Nevy Clark in Savannh, GA NClark48@bellsouth.net

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Guest fleetwood41

Here are two photos of this Buick at this stage. I would like to thank all who have responded and for the linformation provided, you have been a tremendous help. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks??

post-62900-143138102378_thumb.jpg

post-62900-143138102382_thumb.jpg

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Guest fleetwood41

Please allow me to pick your brains for opinions on the following:

(1) What would installing an electric starter do regarding the value of this car?

(2) Where can the electric starter be obtained?

Not sure if the wants to do this, but the owner is not able to crank it anymore.

Thanks in advance for comments,

VP

post-62900-143138104005_thumb.jpg

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Virgil- That is one nice Buick, however I don't think that it is a Model 10. The overall size, the wheelbase, the fender style, the wheels,tires,and hubcaps look to me to be more in align with the Model 17. What is the tire size, the Model 17 had 34x4 ? Bob

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Guest fleetwood41

Bob,

Thanks for the comment and observation. With several responses and Dave Corbin's data base, it has been determined that it actually is a 1910 Model 19, after reviewing the three different numbers on the car, the wheel base (105) and tire size (32 x 4). The owner was under the impression that it was a 1909 Model 10 Touring from some literature and parts sheets that came with the car.

Virgl

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Virgil,

Making a brass car useable for the owner seldom affects the price unless (heaven forbid) it is going to be a museum piece. Most Buicks can be fitted with a ring gear & matching 12V starter to make them easy for older owners to start. This is also considered a safety feature when it stalls at an intersection. Flat belt starter systems are easier to convert back to original if you are concerned about value. Post on the BrassBuicks or HCCA sites for sources.

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Tell him to bring is son or grandson to help start the car.... Just a suggestion....

Actually, that is how I got started (pun intended) with Buicks. My father bought a 1913 Buick just after bypass surgury and needed me to start & drive the car on tours.... It has been in the family now for almost 20 years.....

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Guest fleetwood41

Thank you Mark, will be checking it out. His grandchildren are the main reason he decided to get it back on the road, I think, and your suggestion is cool. Good way to get young blood into old cars. I got hooked at age 13, when my grandfather let me "drive" his 1936 Chevy, after promising not to tell my grandmother about it.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest fleetwood41

Back again with yet another question.

To bring to date, I dropped the pan, cleaned it & re-installed it, along with the pump (after receiving some help from Mark Shaw regarding pan gaskets). Got all rust & crud out of gas tank without pulling it and cleaned out fuel lines & filter. Radiator had no leaks, one loose fitting at water pump and one oil line leak were easily fixed. After trying to start it unsuccessfully, we pulled the carb and magnito went thru both, making needed repairs. It started the second attempt ( we pulled via my truck ) and ran great. Did some minor adjustments and took for another spin. This time we started it by letting it roll a few feet and popping the clutch n 2nd gear. Drove it a few minutes, reaching 35 mph for an extend stretch and then parked it. Got zero leaks!!

Now my question: We attempted to start if via crank, with no luck. When I struck out, two friends, neither one a weakling, were unable to crank start it. [uWHAT COULD BE KEEPING US FROM STARTING IT WITH THE CRANK? It will turn the engine over butt will not fire. It starts with a 6 foot roll very quidk. Is there anything in particular other than retard, gas & switch on that you do when cranking it?

Thanks,

VP]

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Every car has it's own quirks and requires slight differences in starting procedures. My 13 starts rather easily with the following steps.... Turn on gas, retard the spark, adjust throttle for fast idle, pull out to full choke, crank engine one or two turns (until you smell gasoline or see it dripping from the carb, push in choke, turn on ignition, crank engine til it starts, quickly advance spark.

One other method is to follow procedure above, and crank start with full choke until it pops once, then push in the choke and keep cranking til it starts...

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  • 1 month later...
Guest fleetwood41

Update: (1910 Model 19)

We have this hummer consistantly starting via crank on the second or fourth wind now and have driven it a few miles working out cobwebs & bugs. Runs strong, had it up to 35 mph, have not run over anyone and even learned how to shift without grinding a pound in low to second.

May not need one but I would like information regarding where to obtain a muffler and what to expect to pay for one, any information will be appreciated.

Thnaks, VP

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  • 10 months later...
Guest fleetwood41

Back again after several months of fooling around with Cadillac business, trying to earn enough $$ to mess around with Buicks. (That is supposed to be humor....:D

I do have a question:

How many 1910 Buick Model 19s are currently registered with the Buick Club of America? Or anywhere else that anyone may know of? If this is a dumb question, just consider the source and let me benefit from your wisdon. Thanks, VP

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