dbdave26 Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 Hi guys. I have been having a problem getting my '26 to charge. It cranks real good, but after it starts, any increase in rpms the cut out shuts off. After many hours of tinkering, I've discovered that the armature has a short. Is there anyone or any place that has NOS, rebuilts or Just good used armatures? My S/G is a Northeast model GA. Any help leeds or ideas will be greatly appreciated.ThanksDaveGilford N.H., Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 Try the regular DB dealers. I bought the closest thing to a rebuilt from Roy Brister in Ok. A NOS armature would be a rare part. What most do is test parts and put together the best, new bearings brushes etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ozziedodge25 Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 I have found Special Interest Autos to have a good range of electrical parts and rebuilds.They do north east rebuilds on starter genertors also.cheers,Brett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kangabro Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Ozziedodge - do you have the contact details / location of Special Interest Autos? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DodgeKCL Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Since you are a tinkerer you may be able to fix it yourself. What is the short? From one of the segments to the armature shaft? This is the one that will kill the output and cook the commutator. I've found that most of the problems are in the commutator area where all the coil wires come over to the copper segments. You can unsolder all the wires, you have to have a 'heavy' soldering iron and a 'solder sucker'-a WEN gun is the best, and lift them free of the commutator. If the short goes away as you do this look for the break in the shellac insulation of that wire. I use a 5 minute epoxy to reset the wires down to reconnect with the commutator segments before resoldering. And small pieces of heavy paper in any ares where I have to push a wire against another. All liberally doused with epoxy. Do not use JB Weld as it is conductive. As I guess you know by now, you should only get continuity between 2 segments one on one side of the commutator and it's mate 180 degrees from it. If the short is in the area of the magnetic cores you're dead. But I would still do some detective work where the wire bundles are exposed at each end of the cores as most of the damage is 'mechanical' in nature caused by something striking the wires and knocking off the shellac insulation and age causing the insulation to crack. The wire then touches the magnetic cores or the shaft and this used to be called a 'grounded' armature and called for rewinding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 OK, it's time for a dum question. When useing a "growler" to check an armature, does a good one growl or a bad one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDewey Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 You put the armature in the growler "cradle" and turn on the growler. Then take a thin piece of steel (I use a hacksaw blade, and see if it is attracted to the armature (growls), turn the armature a little and check again, until you have turned it a whole revolution.At least that was what I was taught many decades ago.David D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 You put the armature in the growler "cradle" and turn on the growler. Then take a thin piece of steel (I use a hacksaw blade, and see if it is attracted to the armature (growls), turn the armature a little and check again, until you have turned it a whole revolution.At least that was what I was taught many decades ago.David D. Thanks, that part I understand. But does a good one growl or a bad one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Thats defanitely not a dumb question, I dont have any idea myself how to check this and would like to know as well in laymens terms of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDewey Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Ah, Chocolate town, Sorry, One LITTLE detail missing! If the metal is attracted to the armature, it will buzz against it, indicating an internal short. Did that help? Sorry it's taken me so long to get back to you, I didn't get a notification of the posting.David D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Growling is bad? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GCheaney Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Dave has an armature on its way Monday morning.Glenn Ace Alternator & Starter Exchange Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDewey Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Yes, Growling (metal buzzing) is bad! Indicates internal shorts.David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbdave26 Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 Hi Guys I found a used armature from Ace Alternator in Witchita. The fellow I emailed was very helpful. He took one out of a "parts" unit, cleaned, turned, and sealed it. It is a real good looking piece A little on the pricy side, but at least I'm back on the road.Thanks for all help and suggestions.DB Dave In N.H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Scafani Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Roger... Roger where are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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