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Everything posted by DDewey

  1. They both look like Hickory to me--in fact, if my wheels looked like your "old" ones, I'd be a happy camper! T'ake care, David D.
  2. Still looking--too busy moving a Theatre Pipe Organ. David D.
  3. This sounds like a great idea. I will try it as soon as I find my 2" hole saw! It's here. . . .somewhere! I'll let you know how it goes. David D.
  4. Hi all, I recently acquired an intact (!!!) gas tank gauge that I believe will fit my '16. It looks like it has the DB logo on it, but too dirty to tell. I am wondering if anyone has a "secret trick" for loosening the knurled retaining cap. So far I have doused it with penetrating oil, soaked the unit in hot water (don't want to break the glass) and gently squeezed it (working my way around the rim) with my mini-mill's machinist's vice (very smooth, parallel jaws so I don't damage the knurling) hoping to break the rust loose. so far nada. . . Someone un-soldered the gauge from a tank many many moons ago, so it's easy to work around. Anyone have some hints?? Thanks! David D.
  5. Somewhere (if I didn't sell it some time ago) I have a NOS add-on oil filter that has a cream body (more an off-white) with a light blue top. More controversy!! David D.
  6. I wish I still had ONE of my '34 DB P/Us (yes I had two and sold them both--dumb, dumb, dumb!!!!) IMHO, better styling than the "other two big makes."--and better mechanicals too! David D. (16 DB)
  7. Interesting, so how were the headlights focused on the early headlights? Now I have to go find mine and see which ones I have! Details, details, details!! David D. PS Was this noted in the recent "changes" articles? Now I have to find my DB mags! (Lost in home remodel land)
  8. Phil, That is some of the nicest looking woodgrain that I've seen. The car deserves to be well cared for. Hope you find an honorable buyer. Too bad you can't keep it in the family--I still regret turning down my Grandmother's '47 Chev Areosedan because it was "too new--no running boards." and it was not anywhere as nice as yours. David D.
  9. Old-timer's method--WARNING!! you can screw up the threads on your axle this way, if you are not careful! Put wheels on. Jack up car at opposite wheel (wheel you want drum off is on the ground, weight of car on it, other wheel in the air) Take off axle nut. If you don't have an "axle driver" tool (basically a long blind-holed nut), turn the nut around, and put back on the axle until the end of the nut is flush with the axle. Get a friend to hold a good sized piece of flat steel against the end of the axle, make certain he's holding it square. Strike the steel at the axle point with a LARGE sledge hammer. After one or three blows, the drum should come loose. The nut keeps the drum from flying off, AND keeps the end of the axle from mushrooming. Having the other wheel in the air allows the car (and axle) to move when the axle is struck. The wheel on the ground keeps the drum from moving. The tool described is the best solution, but even with it, you sometimes have to do the jack thing--and don't forget to put the nut on the axle first!! Good luck, they can be real bears to get loose. David D.
  10. Dave, What are the "historic Tunnels" that the state is charging so much to drive through? A website on them? Thanks, David D.
  11. Bill, I went out and looked at my wheels and your picture, and you're right, they are different!! My bad. Rats, thought I'd found you more places to look. Oh well. . . David D.
  12. I think the Plymouth wheels will work too. I have a set of Plymouths on my (ducking behind cover!) '53 DB pickup. Well, gee, they look a lot sharper than the originals (which I still have, so it can be undone). David D.
  13. Bob, Very cool! I'm thinking of painting my body (my car's body, that is!) a very, very, very, dark blue--looks like black in the shade, with black fenders, etc. I think that will set off the Dodge blue wheels. But, of course, I'm a loooong ways away from that decision! David D. How about a close pic of your dash?
  14. Well, off work today sick, but felt well enough by this afternoon to walk up to my storage and check. RATS!! I have three starter/generators sitting there, but they are all the later type. Guess I have to keep looking, or put a late type switch in my car. David D.
  15. Here's the April 16 Book of Information illustration of the dash interior. The details match my car's dash, including the ignition switch style. David D.
  16. Bob, "Remains" egads it looks more complete than my car did when I first got it. Unfortunately, I doubt I can afford another one! I got the pictures Sunday, but last night the phone company flaked on me while trying to download them. So here they are now, both sides of the engine and an offset dog leg that I have. You will notice that I haven't started the chassis restoration yet! I may even have the correct starter in a pile of DB starters I bought, but they are up in another storage shed. Will have to wait a bit until I can find them. BTW, I just received an April '16 "Book of Information" and all the features seem to be correct for my car! cool!! I will have to scan in the dash illustration, as it shows the starter switch trim, etc.
  17. Wow Bob, that's neato! I wish my car had been half as good when I got it, but I can't complain (I was after the T motor in the shed, but look what I ended up with! Oh well. . . .). I didn't get to the car Thursday, and now must wait until after the Sabbath to go over where it's stored. So maybe after work on Sunday (yeah, I get to work weekends this next month) I can stop in and take some pics. Glad my pics helped. David D.
  18. Vern, So you think they would have stamped the earlier number on my block? It does have the early style water pump mounting, if that is any indication. Won't the later gooseneck mount to the block just like the earlier one? I will try to get more engine pictures tomorrow. David D. PS This is starting to stray from the starter switch question! Bob, did my pictures help any??
  19. Dave, That's what Bob & I have been posting about, we both have later starter/generators on our cars, which makes sense for a car that was in use and needed repair--what's odd about my car is that the is no appearance of the "box switch" being on it--however, all I have is the plate on the floorboard, no switch!! This car sat in a field for a few decades, so stuff could have been taken off it--for instance, I have very little wiring. My engine number is 115, XXX so I think it's the original.
  20. Bob, Sorry, no--just the picture! Here's some pics of my car--it's been sitting under a tarp for a while. so the cobwebs are thick. There's a close-up of the switch floor plate, and you can see how close it is to that board's edge; it appears the bottom side is clipped to clear the aluminum trim. There's also a pic of the starter/gen that's currently on my car (the one that was on it when I got it--and has been there for at least 3 decades). And a pic of my speedo remains--and you can see the floor plate in it too. I tried to get a pic of the drive connection--on my speedo, it is right behind the setting wheel, pointing straight down. It's great comparing notes with cars from relatively similar dates David D. PS I do have the correct Roller "amp meter" to fit that hole (Looks like someone put in a Ford style gauge at one time!)
  21. Bob, Haven't been able to get to the car yet, will try on my way home tomorrow. My car is in the high 64,XXX numbers, engine is in the low 115,XXXs--probably very late mag set-up. Like I stated, haven't found any other speedos with the offset drive. I should take a pic of it too. Here's a pic of an original switch, but it doesn't have the plate. I forget where I got this pic, I have it so I know what to look for! David D.
  22. Bob, I Didn't get to the computer for a while. I will see if I can get to the car (it's stored at a friend's place) and take some pics, I don't have any on my computer (that's a surprise!). My car also has the magneto ignition, does yours?Also, the speedometer remains on my car has an 'offset' cable connection; it doesn't come out bottom center, but off to the right side, but straight down. I haven't seen anything like that in my searching (and not enough of the speedo left to use!) David D.
  23. Also, make certain end fastening are CLEAN. I had a uh, other make, car that for years I would fight getting it started once the engine warmed up. Turned out to be too much paint where the ground cable fastened to the engine!!! Cleaned the paint off one day, and voila!! no more starting problem. Put up with that for years!!!! Also rebuilt the starter twice, second time with "high output" field coils. .. all that headache over a little over restoration. . . (and, yes, this was a 6 volt system) Sometimes the simplest solutions. . . . David D.
  24. Bob, there is a round plate mounted on the floorboards with a slot in it, and a starter pedal goes through that to the switch. My floorboard has the plate, but I don't have the switch, and there's a two wire generator/starter on my engine! Another, "What the heck??" mystery on my car. (may, '16) Nice to know that there was a replacement floor box switch used. David D.
  25. I hate to bring up the Ford here, but the Model A gives us many examples of butler finish. The dash panels were originally butler finished, and you can see the "grain" of the satin polishing when you look at an original panel. Direction of the grain is important to the final look of the piece. Also on the A, the gearshift lever, and the emergency brake lever (except for the top section "handle") were butler finished. Only the higher level models had butler finish on the inside door and window handles. At least with Fords, the dash is the one item usually wrong in most restorations--the repros are all bright finish. This is so prevalent that many folks, when they see a butler finished panel, think it is wrong! I don't know about the change in chemicals; but, as I understand it, when aeration was added to the nickel process, it resulted in a shiny finish without buffing, saving a labor step. Not being a plater, I might be mis-informed! I know the original plating on my '16 DB spark lever bracket is bright nickel! David D.
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