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A little off topic but need help...66 Muastang tranny problems


Roadster90

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1966 Ford Mustang 289 Automatic.....

Future step sons transmission wouldn't move from a stop light the other day...adding transmission fluid did not help (it was very low from what I was told). I know with our Reatta transmissions that there are some procedures that can be done to at least get the tranny operating to a point, but I am unsure if they would relate to his car....can any one help please and thanks,

Nic

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Guest alex_houston

That tranny was from a much simpler time. No eelctronics, etc.

Black fluid requires a rebuild. Very simple and used to be a $35 kit when I did them. A about a 2 hour bench rebuild. Could just be valve assy with stuck valves/balls, but if so, is due to dirt, etc which is indicator of a need for rebuild anyway.

Possibly the flex plate could be broken which is easy to determine. If engine turns over, and torque converter does not, it is a broken flex plate. Not too uncommon, but still a tranny removal to repair.

Has the filter been cleaned lately? If stopped up it will not get enough fluid to operate. Simple drop tranny pan and clean pan, look for shavings and replace filter. Very simple. Shavings reuire a rebuild. Stopped up filter is worrysome because where did all that debris come from? Likely rebuild soon.

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Nic, if the trans was really low on fluid, try shifting from reverse to drive about a dozen times. It will purge air from the system and restore fluid to the proper cavities in the trans. Then check the fluid level again (while running and in park). It could need more fluid after getting the air out.

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Hello Nic:

The Ford 'C4' Cruise-O-Matic in your Mustang is a very reliable transmission. Of course, mechanical stuff does break down.

I have three questions about your trouble: 1) Does it move in REVERSE? Different clutch packs & bands within the C4 create forward vs reverse motion. 2) Where there any symptoms before the 'no move' condition occurred? 3) Do you know if the transmission fluid had a burnt smell?

If it doesn't move in either direction, it sounds like no hydraulic pressure is available to apply any of the clutch packs or bands. Other than changing what might be a very clogged filter, there is not much you can do without rebuilding the unit. Changing the filter involves removing the transmission pan, replacing the filter & pan gasket, replacing the pan and refilling the unit. The debris in the pan can tell a lot about the condition of the unit. If the fluid has a burnt smell, this indicates that friction elements have been slipping. A slipping transmission needs to be rebuilt.

The good news: 1) in this car the transmission is easy to remove & replace, 2) it's a simple unit compared to today's transmissions and 3) rebuild kits and hard parts are very available & not too expensive. SO..., having a transmission shop rebuilt the unit will not cost a fortune. A C4 transmission rebuild is not a cheap ticket but MUCH less expensive than a rebuild of the Hydramatic transaxle in your Reatta.

Keep us posted.

Paul

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Sincere THANKS for the replies folks smile.gif

I just talked with Robert again and after the incident at the stop light (he had it towed to a friends house) he added atf, and it apparently was flowing rapidly out of a dry rotted or broken line....the color of the fluid could not be determined. He did say that after filling with atf that the car was trying to move but would not ....after trying all positions - forwards and reverse.

Would dropping the pan and changing the filter with new atf and a can of Sea Foam possibly do any good or would it just be throwing effort and money away please?

So we can sort of make a plan, does anyone know a ball park figure on a rebuilt tranny please?

Thanks again,

Nic

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">he added atf, and it apparently was flowing rapidly out of a dry rotted or broken line...</div></div>Has he repaired the broken line? Sounds to me like he needs to repair the line. Add fluid to the proper level and drive to see if there are more problems.

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Nic:

The broken line is one of the cooler lines which connect to the transmission oil cooler in the bottom of the radiator. The lines for a '66 with a V8 were steel. I'm not sure if they used some rubber hose sections in '65. The hose needs to be the type used for a <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">power steering return</span></span> line to handle the pressure. Any good auto parts store will carry it (probably 5/16" ID). Fuel line hose should <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">NOT</span></span> be used.

If the transmission was performing properly before the rapid fluid leak, correcting the leak, replacing the filter & fluid might buy a good amount of time. A C4 filter kit (filter & pan gasket) & new fluid should run less than $20. Of course, the cooler line(s) must be properly repaired too.

Back in 2002, I had the C4 rebuild in our '66 Mustang. With a rebuilt torque converter (a must), I believe it cost about $800. I also had a mild shift kit installed during the rebuild. A shift kit firms up the shifts which increases the durability of the bands & clutches.

As money is tight for all of us, you might want to try the $20 route first. I would skip the Sea Foam additive (do they even make a product for transmissions???)

Keep us posted.

Paul

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Gentlemen,

Thank you all for your replies/suggestions/help....most greatly appreciated.

I haven't seen the car, and have not been getting complete information/symptoms as Robert is not as technically oriented as we would wish ... I only found out about the leaking line yesterday after lunch.

The information you folks have provided has given the mother and son the much needed food for thought to not only understand the situation, but also to decision what to do.

The present plan is to have the Mustang towed to a Transmission shop to replace what is needed, OR diagnose and advise for possible sale (he is attending a military college and has no means of income to pay for 800 to 1000 tranny).

I will keep the forum advised and again, Thank You All Very Much smile.gif

Nic

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I purchased a used C4 last summer. It was from a 1980 Granada. It was 150.00. It could have been drained and filled and hit the road. Although I did not complete it, it is going to be rebuilt. Kit and shift kit were 85.00. If it smells the least bit burnt the trans shop will want to rebuild it. They don't like to do quick fixes. They will probably want about 1500.00 for the job.

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Thanks Chuck....I am forwarding every post to them....... I have not heard anything from today....information from last night was that he was searching out a Transmission shop. I will post any significant news when received.....again THANKS guys smile.gif

Nic

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Guest Bill_Boro

Hello Nick,

I have used Jim's Transmissions behind Murry Olds and the Car Max on Midlothian Trnpk. He has been there for years and is great on price and service as well as standing behind his work.

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RESOLUTIONn & APOLOGY; replacement of the lines repaired the Mustang (so far).....$90.00 total cost. Folks, I am really sorry about entering this post. Robert who has NO technical skills broke down at 11:00 P.M. one night and called a friends father who works for a towing outfit, and has this gigantic (Real Big One - for towing 18 wheelers etc) wrecker at his home....where he towed the Mustang. This fellow along with one of his "back yard expert friends" diagnosed the problem as a totally shot tranny with burnt bands and or clutches. I never saw the car, but took the second hand worthless information and jumped in at this point and entered this post. I also just heard that this same fellow / wrecker driver also made the comment a day or so ago that he had seen the lines seeping and in questional condition when HE did the pre-buy inspection for Robert 7 months ago and failed to mention it smile.gif. I am just so sorry to have bothered the forum needlessly, and have learned more than several lessons here....one of which is to especially research situations a little more before jumping in like a idiot and pestering you folks....the real experts ...hopefully this won't happen again.

***Your replies and suggestions did however very much help the mother and son understand the situation a great deal more than they did ..... which was very much needed and very important...

Thanks again,

Nic

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Not a problem, for one, I do not mind helping people who ask about problems. Can't help everyone and do not know much about F*rds (C4 vs C6 is about it) but glad some here can.

Does mention something much closer to home, brake, coolant, a/c, and fuel lines need inspecting occasionally by someone who knows what they see once cars get past about 10 years old particularly in rubber eating climates (Florida, California,...).

It is interesting but in many states that do not have rust issues do have issues with rubber items. About the only part of the US I know of where everything lasts longer is the Pacific Northwest at least five miles inland. (Mild climate, can often walk their goldfish...).

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Please, the only dumb question is the one not asked.

My vote is that you and all others go ahead and ask any automotive questions you have at any time.

This would be an excellent time, especially considering that the Mustang is a vintage car to go over in detail what a fluid examination would consist of.

After sitting for a semester I would strongly recommend that the antifreeze be checked for the appropriate level and perhaps level of protection.

The brake fluid and power steering fluids should also be checked as shold the transmission fluid and oil levels be checked.

Don't forget the antifreeze in the windshield washer either.

A nice gift for him would be a small air compressor and a tire pressure gauge and an antifreeze tester. Harbor Freight here you go with coupons in hand.

It doesn't hurt to check bulbs also, brake, turn signals, back up and license plate markers etc.

AND instructions on how to do the checks oe even do them with him the first time.

It also helps to look under the car for fresh wet spots, gas, oil, transmission, differential etc.

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