Installed HID lights, want to convert running lights to brights

[dnt]

I just could not resist installing an hid light system as I had installed that system in my Park Avenue a year ago and it is so much superior to the OEM lights--and only $63.00 plus $34.00 for a pair of diamond projector headlights that would accept the H-4 style bulbs utilized by the HID system This leaves me with a problem, no "bright lights." What does it take to convert or replace the running lights to "bright" lights ? Can I just tap-off the wiring on the existing high beam circuit or... ?

[Guest NEMO]

You have BRIGHT lights.blinding on coming cars.Smart move.

[Barney Eaton]

The bulbs are 27 watt and if the correct ones are in there the end is black, so no light goes straight out, everything is reflected.

You can start by going to a bulb without the black end.

This seems to vary with maker. I have seen the same part number with and without the black.

Next step is to increase wattage, they go 32 watts, then 37.5 then 50 which seems to be the highest wattage in that package.

CAUTION, the Reatta housing is plastic and might melt.

[dnt]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NEMO</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You have BRIGHT lights.blinding on coming cars.Smart move. </div></div>

Blinding oncoming cars only occurs if the new lights are not adjusted properly. Very simple, set car 20' from a wall, measure distance from ground to center of headlight (2'2") and place a piece of tape at that height on the wall, then set the beams + - 4" below that mark. 2-3 minutes, done. In the year that I have had them installed in my Park Avenue, not one person has flashed their brights at me. So, thank you for recognizing making the converstion was a "smart move"--and I assume you were not being sarcastic. :-)

[dnt]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Barney Eaton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Next step is to increase wattage, they go 32 watts, then 37.5 then 50 which seems to be the highest wattage in that package.

CAUTION, the Reatta housing is plastic and might melt. </div></div>

Barney, is the wiring to the running lights of a sufficient gauge to support a higher wattage bulb?

I seem to recollect reading that running lights are configured to project a wide, but not far down the road beam. If that is so, can I really get bright light performance even with a higher wattage bulb?

Thanks.

[Guest simplyconnected]

I think it's money well spent. Those OEM lights are just so bad compared to HID.

If current is an issue, you can run a +12-volt wire through two relays (one for High Beam, one for Low Beam). Keep the relays close to your headlights, and use the headlight wires to control the new relay coils. All your original switches will still work just fine.

[Rawja]

I'd love to see pics.

Also, I've always been afraid of the cheap HID kits on eBay. Are you happy with the quality?

[padgett]

This is $60 for the H-4 housing and $63 for the HID bulbs/ballast to replace the H-4s ?

AFAIR the wiring to the driving lights has a maximum rating of 10 amps or about 50 watts per light. Being conservative I suspect that anything over 37.5w is going to need a relay.

I have seen the stock lights with burned spots so suspect they are marginal even with the stock 27w bulb.

[dnt]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: padgett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This is $60 for the H-4 housing and $63 for the HID bulbs/ballast to replace the H-4s ?

AFAIR the wiring to the driving lights has a maximum rating of 10 amps or about 50 watts per light. Being conservative I suspect that anything over 37.5w is going to need a relay.

I have seen the stock lights with burned spots so suspect they are marginal even with the stock 27w bulb. </div></div>

$63.00 for the HID kit which will work with an H4 bulb opening plus an additional $34 for the H-4 housing that replaces the existing sealed light assembly. This is what the HID kit looks like:

As an aside, I did have to trim some plastic off with a dremel tool from the rear of the new headlight housing so it would fit properly. Took about 2 minutes. Total installation time about 45-minutes and that is only because I am slow.

I guess I will not try to do anything with the existing running lights and will investigate replacing those assemblies with like sized units that are high-beam capable--if I can find any that are affordable.

When the first light was installed, I turned the lights on for testing and when you see the HID light running next to the running OEM light, it is VERY impressive. It is an inexpensive face-lift that IMHO enhances safety.

[Guest simplyconnected]

I bought the round version H-4 for my classic. The front of the lamp housing is glass, and the back (starting at the chrome headlight ring) is plastic. No trimming or problems so far.

For your relays, #14-AWG stranded copper wire safely carries 15-amps continuously. Home Depot carries (thermoplastic) THHN-type insulation wire, excellent-industrial grade, thin, but it's a bit stiff. If you want more flexibility, use MTW-type insulation, or buy your wire at a good auto parts store.

[Guest MauiWowee]

Sorry, I have not done any research on HID. I don't think I even know anyone who has installed them. What is this whole "no high beam" thing? And where do you mount those ballasts?

Thanks

[Guest simplyconnected]

Look at the leads on the new HID bulbs, they have two wires (no 'high beam'). DNT would like to convert his running lights into "high beam" operation.

It's a sacrifice to give up your high beams in favor of HID. Since I live in a big metropolis, I wouldn't miss my high beams at all. I still think the HID retrofit is well worth it.

[dnt]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MauiWowee</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sorry, I have not done any research on HID. I don't think I even know anyone who has installed them. What is this whole "no high beam" thing? And where do you mount those ballasts?

Thanks </div></div>

Now you know one person that has installed them, me. ;-) The ballast mounting was somewhat problematic as the leads from the ballast to the lights is rather short. I mounted them on the round brace bars that angle across the top front of the engine compartment. Clever people could disassemble half the car and do better...

[waterskiers2]

They sell HID conversion kits for high/low beam headlights now. Also, the ballasts are digital (on most of them) which eliminates the 'flickering' of the lights when you first turn the HID lights on.

If you have a high powered audio system, the flickering of the HID headlights with the analog ballasts is a BIG problem. I have 4 amplifiers in my vehicle drawing almost 200 amps. I upgraded to the new digital ballasts with the high/low beam HID bulbs. The bulbs (there are two versions) either move in/out or tilt up/down based on the headlight housing you have.

I believe they're selling them on EBay by now. I'd do a search on "HID digital ballast bi-xenon". That should bring up the correct type of HID system you're looking for. I've installed the new digitals in both my Ford SuperDuty and my '88 Reatta. They work perfect in both vehicles. I don't like the 'purple' color and thus ordered the bulbs in the 4300k (same as Mercedes, BWM, Acura, etc).

Just an FYI if anyone is interested.

[Rawja]

Pictures please please please.

[dnt]

For less than $130.00, delivered, you can get the HID lights with high and low beams. For example, see here On the other hand, it is my understanding that the units that are both high/low beam capable are more prone to breakdown. Perhaps, if you get one of the real expensive units, that is less of a problem.

[dnt]

What about installing long range/off road 42,000 candlepower lights in place of the 28 watt running lights that could be utilized as bright lights only. A picture of one that would fit can be seen here As noted in previous messages, a relay could be activated by the high-beam switch circuit.

[Guest simplyconnected]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: simplyconnected</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If current is an issue, you can run a +12-volt wire through two relays (one for High Beam, one for Low Beam). Keep the relays close to your headlights, and use the headlight wires to control the new relay coils.</div></div> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dnt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As noted in previous messages, a relay could be activated by the high-beam switch circuit. </div></div>

How else would you do it???

-

[dnt]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: simplyconnected</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: simplyconnected</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If current is an issue, you can run a +12-volt wire through two relays (one for High Beam, one for Low Beam). Keep the relays close to your headlights, and use the headlight wires to control the new relay coils.</div></div> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dnt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As noted in previous messages, a relay could be activated by the high-beam switch circuit. </div></div>

How else would you do it???

-

</div></div>

Well, one could be tempted to use the existing wiring a switch for the running lights...which could be problematic. Keeping the relay near the headlights, good idea...had not thought of doing so. Always learning something new.