Profyrfyter Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 Hello all,I know I've discussed repairing my tank before but I need to know what to use. Yesterday I purchased some weldable sheet metal and tried to solder it onto the tank with 40/60 acid core solder. The solder would just ball up and bounce off of the tank. Am I getting the metal to hot? Am I using the wrong stuff? We also tried to MIG weld the patch piece in but the metal was to thin from rust and was just burning through. Now my plan is to just completely cut the thin part out and put a bigger patch piece in but I need to know what the best method is for joining the two pieces. After I get the patch in place I'm going to use the POR 15 product on it.Thanks,Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_woodwheels Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 Dave; For the time and money you will spend persuing this approach I am suggesting you consider using the tank you have as a pattern and have a stainless tank made at your local sheet metal shop. Your described repair is working with metal that has seen is service life spent and depends on gas tank goo to do the final seal job. There is no gas tank goo that passes the test of time, you are buying a year or three before the goo ends plugging your filter or worse yet migrates to the carburetor. You are also risking an explosion putting flame to a old tank even if it has had no gas in it for some time regardless of how it has been prepared for the surgery. Please remember a patched tank is a weak tank. At 7 pounds per gallon why risk structural failure or worse. Your machine will thank you many times over for the gift of clean and safely stored fuel. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Profyrfyter Posted November 11, 2008 Author Share Posted November 11, 2008 A stainless tank huh? Hmmmm sounds expensive I'll check with our local metal supplier to see if they know of someone that can fabricate with stainless steel. I guess the most difficult part of that would be to reproduce the filler neck and gauge bosses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 I agree with wood wheels, that metal is old and like he said the heat from the repair whatever method you use is only going to make the metal more brittle in the surrounding area. If its got holes in one area there are alot of other areas that are not far off. I myself have wasted to much time trying to repair something that should have been replaced just because I was either trying to use original stuff or I just thought I could save a few bucks. Now I factor in my time and it just aint worth it anymore, the older I get the less I am able to afford myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Profyrfyter Posted November 12, 2008 Author Share Posted November 12, 2008 So in regards to fabricating a new tank, what did you guys do when it came to the filler neck, the gas gauge boss and the fuel line/tank drain? I like the idea of having a stainless tank made, especially since I know someone who is a certified stainless welder, I just need to know how to do those items. Thanks,Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imported_Big Mark Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 You may be able to reuse thouse parts ask the welder he might have some ideas If he's good let me know I need one myself, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Profyrfyter Posted November 12, 2008 Author Share Posted November 12, 2008 I'll have to contact him. I just wonder if there will be any issues trying to join the stainless and the weldable steel.Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72caddy Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 I have a spare gas tank for a 1916-1923 Dodge Brothers. It need s a new filler neck - gas tank cap neck - the rest is solid. I believe it has one or two slight indentation that could be easy straightened. Make me an offer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Profyter, steel can easily be welded to stainless with a tig. Sounds like your tank was not clean enough when you tried to solder it. Glassbead the area and "tin" it, then solder it together. If you take it to a radiator shop they can finish the job and pressure test it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Profyrfyter Posted November 12, 2008 Author Share Posted November 12, 2008 Thanks Chocolate, and also thanks to 72caddy for letting us know about his tank (Big Mark maybe you're interested in it?) I figured I'd just remove the entire "soft" part of the tank so I opened my tank up with a cut off wheel last night. I was then able to clean the entire inside out (which produced about three double handfuls of crud). I then resoldered the inside of the guage neck because many of the threads were rusted through. Some of the solder came through out onto the threads so I just threaded the ring back on and cut it cut new threads into the solder. The cleanliness of my work makes sense, I just wire wheeled the pain off but I didn't even think about cleaning the surface before I tried to solder it. I am going to have a piece of sheet metal cut and rolled into shape to cover the opening then I'll try Chocolates method. Eventually I'd like to have a stainless tank made, but for now I just want to get it together. I am planning on cutting the fuel line that runs along the frame rail and installing a fuel filter so hopefully if any sealer does break loose it will stop there.Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1929Chrysler Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 At the very least after your done thoroughly cleaning and reparing it, I would definetly seal it to prevent any more rust. A few years ago I had a radiator shop RENU my gas tank. (gastankrenu.com) They basically clean the inside of the tank and apply a sealer that is impervious to gasoline. they also seal the outside as well. Four years later the tank is still brand new with no rust. At that time I think the cost was $250.If I were to do it today, to save some money, I would consider using a product made from POR-15 called "U.S. Standard Fuel Tank Sealer". I used it to seal my cork floats and it worked great.Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Profyrfyter Posted November 13, 2008 Author Share Posted November 13, 2008 I'm definately going to seal the inside with the POR-15, I never thought about sealing the cork float but it sounds like a good idea since mine is not in the best shape and I'll have the product any way.Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Profyrfyter Posted November 15, 2008 Author Share Posted November 15, 2008 Well we did it. My friend managed to weld a new piece of sheet metal into the tank this morning. It was slow going since the metal had a tendency to burn through. After he finished the welding I ground the beads down to clean them up then hit it with a wire wheel. Next I brushed acid solder all the way around the new seam and used a handheld propane torch with some 50/50 solder and "sweated" the entire perimeter. Once it cooled I filled it up with water and only had one small leak. After I drained it and repaired the one leak I filled it up again and it held all the way around. My next step is to get the POR-15 products to seal it inside and out.Thanks to all who took the time to answer all my questions!Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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