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Stuck Spark Plug


Guest Geoff Fender

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Guest imported_Geoff Fender

First of all, I would like to thank Barney Eaton for providing me with his headlamp rebuild kits. They work great and the directions included are very clear and complete. I could not have asked for better results.

Now, I went to change the plugs on my 89 Reatta yesterday and the first five went in and out without any problems. The last one however, cylinder number 2 I believe, (back side, far left) will not come out. Sprayed some PB Blaster on it and let it sit overnight. Tried again this morning, no luck. Any advice would be great.

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Guest imported_Geoff Fender

It ran before I started changing the plugs. It was kind of an impulse decision. I had the wires off anyhow because one had worn through, figured I may as well change the plugs.

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Guest StephenM

I think Ronnie meant "does the plug turn at all", not whether the engine turns over.

Did you try tightening first then loosen?

Start the engine using five new plugs. Try removing the stuck plug when the engine is hot.

Good luck - Steve

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Guest imported_Geoff Fender

I guess that would make more sense. Turn the plug not the motor.

It does turn a little, but I cannot tighten it at all.

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If the SPARK PLUG smile.gif moves any at all I would keep moving it back and forth while spraying it with a penetrating oil every once in a while. Do not keep backing out the plug with brute force or you will damage the threads. Try some "Aero Kroil" penetrating oil if you can find it locally. It is one of the best.

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Guest simplyconnected

Kroil is the best (it comes in an orange spray can). If you notice, it's never in the stores. I think it's illegal in CA, too. We at Ford, buy it from an industrial supplier.

Using finesse and common sense will do the job. Bullying it will bring all the head threads out with the old plug.

The threads might be loaded with carbon, so use something that will lubricate and break down carbon.

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The last time i had a stuck plug it was on a Pontiac T1000 (Chevette) in the mid 90s and the plug actually tore off with the threads still stuck. A tapered reverse thread plug did the trick, but for a while I thought it would never come out. The porclain(sp) insulator luckily didn't fall into the bore. A breaker bar should help get the plug out and I doubt the plug with come apart like on the T1000. A tip that may be useful for other applications...I've used the folding lug wrench from my LeSabre's spare kit as an extension in the past. Simply slip over the socket wrench and rotate straight.

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If he stripped the spark plug hole he may still be sitting in the corner of the garage staring down at the floor. shocked.gif

I stripped one on a Monte Carlo once and I had to remove half the stuff in the engine compartment to get room to run a tap in the hole to re-tap the threads. It looks like it would be harder on the rear side of the Reatta.

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Guest simplyconnected

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ronnie</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If he stripped the spark plug hole he may still be sitting in the corner of the garage staring down at the floor. shocked.gif </div></div> He might be in the waiting room of his local machine shop, sitting on a chair, holding his head in his hands, rocking and moaning....

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Guest imported_Geoff Fender

Sorry it took so long to reply. Yes I did get it out. I went with the TLC and lots of oil method. And if you look at the attached photo, I think you'll understand why I was having such trouble. Looking back on it, I wish I had thought to replace them when I got the car.

I replaced the plugs with Delco RapidFire #14's, and the wires with a Bosch set. I was slightly amazed with how much faster the car started and how much smoother it ran.

Thanks for all the advice. And sorry to have kept you waiting.

post-32866-143137984418_thumb.jpg

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