Guest BJM Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 In the process of removaing the drivetrain from a 49 Roadmaster, body off. I have a shop manual and wanted to study it today at lunch but I'll be very busy all day. I started last night by removing the road draft tube. Question: Is the road draft tube, if not rusted through, OK as is? I will probably send some sandblast up in there but do these get clogged like a modern PCV system? next, I have started to remove the engine to Bellhousing bolts, the easy to get at ones first. Starter is out. What attaches the flywheel to the transmission and how do I get to it? Through the starter or through a pan on the bottom?Finally, the front two motor mounts look to easy to be true. What removes them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Phillips Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 The two front motor mounts are as easy as they look, to remove. The flywheel-to-transmission bolts are a bit tougher. You have to find an access area, and I can't remember whether the lower front cover of the bell housing comes off on these, or if you have to reach them through the starter hole after you've removed the starter. In any event, you can only reach one or two of these bolts at a time, so you have to rotate the flywheel/engine to get at the rest of the bolts.Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 I would remove the engine and transmission as a unit--much easier to disassemble everything once it's out of the car. I did it the way you're describing simply because I initially missed one bolt on the torque tube and couldn't get it to separate from the transmission <span style="font-style: italic">(there are 6, not 5, bolts back there, although the first 5 are arranged symmetrically and the 6th is at the 12 o'clock position)</span>. If I had found that 6th bolt, the engine/transmission assembly practically would have popped out on its own. Instead, I spent an extra 2-3 hours wrestling with the transmission-to-engine bolts.You definitely need the engine out of the car to remove the bellhousing/clutch/flywheel assembly.Let me know if you need more details. I'd be happy to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron65 Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 If I'm not mistaken, wouldn't this be a Dynaflow car? In that case, you remove the inspection cover for the flywheel. There are 3 bolts that hold the flywheel to the torque converter. If you remove the little plate behind the inspection cover that has 4 bolts, you can have access to the back of the bolt so you can remove the flywheel to torque converter nuts. To disconnect the bellhousing from the engine, there should be 6 bolts (there were on my '53, but it's a 263). The two toward the top were hard to get; I used a ratcheting and swiveling box end wrench. Good luck...these are all for a '53 263...if there are differences with a '49 320, somebody please correct me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BJM Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 Here are some photos. If someone with some knowledge can provide some insight on the Torque Tube removal, that would be great. In the one photo, I scrapped off crud to reveal the brassy thing, then there is a cracked rubber thing. I have removed (6) bolts on the end. Do I need to remove the differential end bolts to remove the engine? Matt, I don't know about removing all as one unit. I would like to remove the engine and take it straight to the engine stand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_N Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 Jake, what kind of engine stand are you going to use to hold that monster? The only one I've seen that supports both ends is over $1,000 (Norco??). Or, did you make your own.Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BJM Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 Gary,I have a 2 ton capacity engine stand purchased from Northern. I bought one for the 430 from my Riviera and one for the 320 straight 8. Matt says no problem holding it up, and I believe him. I went for a bit of overkill due to the length. I should have it out soon. Cost $70 or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 Yep, I used that one without any problems. My first low-cost Summit-brand stand that was fine for small-block V8s actually started bending under the 320 as I released tension from the engine hoist. Bad. I bought the one Jake is using and there were exactly 0 problems and no bending or sagging. A very stout unit and for $70, the bargain of the century. Make sure you smear a little grease on the rotating pin before you assemble it--it'll make it much easier to turn with the engine on there.I still think you should pull the engine and transmission as a unit. If you have the front engine mounts and the rear transmission mount removed, it should all come right out at this point. You've got the 6 bolts (note that sucker at the 12 o'clock position that doesn't fit the pattern--that was the one that screwed me up) out of the torque tube. All that is holding them together is the splined shaft inside, which is just a slip joint. You will more easily be able to remove the transmission from the engine with it on the hoist. Just lower it down onto a few blocks of wood and remove the transmission on the ground. You should easily be able to slide the transmission off and move it around the shop with a buddy. Then you can hang the engine on the stand. Even pulling the engine alone, you're still going to have to remove the flywheel/bellhousing before you can put it on the stand anyway.Attached are some photos that I think will help (if you haven't already gathered this information). The first one is where you should separate the transmission from the torque tube. It looks like you already have the bolts out, and it should just slide apart easily as you ease the engine/transmission out. The shiny copper-colored thing is the torque ball assembly where the universal joint lives, and it will stay with the transmission until you rebuild the torque ball.The second one is a stern warning to you. Keep the torque tube and the pinion housing together. These are not designed to come apart after assembly and are apparently quite a project to reassemble. I left mine alone and kept them together as an assembly and painted the entire thing after cleaning it up by hand. I didn't want to risk it.Hope this helps! Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_N Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 I'll have to give that engine stand a try. I need another one anyway. Thanks for the info.Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_N Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 Guys, is this the stand you are talking about? Northern Stand Can't find one there for $70 that's a two ton model.Thanks!Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now