bleeder screws?

[Guest ekvh]

Any advice on how to get the bleeder screws out without wrecking the calipers? The front two of mine stripped off despite spraying them two weeks in advance with wd40. I am guessing it's the old aluminum caliper and steel bleeder issues. I had a Land Rover once with the same issue. As I recall it required a great deal of swearing. I remember taking it to a service station once and the mechanic came out and said,"Don't let thing come even near me!!!" I am hoping to do the recommended brake fluid flush on my Reatta. I don't want to have to purchase new calipers.

[Guest MauiWowee]

If they are already stripped, use vise grips.

[Richard S]

I think our calipers are case iron. The bleeders might be something softer, maybe coated with brass? They are standard, so don't worry about destroying them. I doubt that you will hurt the caliper applying force to the bleeder. It may already be that the moisture that caused them to rust together has compromised the bleeder bore, or the screw was overtightened. One of the reasons service stations tend to be better at this than we is because they use air impact weapons and a 6 point socket.

[Guest NEMO]

front calipers are cheep $20 when you replace them put never seize on them threds,bleed, then a dab of caliper greese in the bleeder hole,top off with a boot or a plactic cap.

[jonlabree]

an IA

[Vincent Vega]

WD40 won't help much. Try using PB Blaster or Kroil. Hit the screw with a hammer a few times after spraying it down. Try to tighten, then loosen. Work it back and forth if you can. You may have to pop it to break it loose. Don't try just turning it out. That is when it will snap off. Back and forth, back and forth. Heat will help but, that may require a rebuild. At that point buy a reman and be done with it.

[Barney Eaton]

Did you see my post on using candle wax?

Heat the bleeder enough to melt candle wax when the candle is touched to it. Try and get the wax to wick into the threads. It has worked for me about 75% of the time.

There are just some screws that are frozen solid.

[Guest ekvh]

I guess I wasn't specific enough. I tore them off. I used the back and forth method and soaked them. Someone above said they were only $20. That's not bad. I expected them to be a lot more. I will replace them if I have to.

[Guest MauiWowee]

OOPS........sounds like new calipers to me. I'd offer you my takeoffs, but I will not be near them until March.

[Richard S]

If you have to go there, might consider the upgrade. Upgraded calipers are only $41 apiece for reman, but you need new [larger] rotors.

[Vincent Vega]

Go get remans. Go fully loaded. Bolt 'em on. Full system flush and go.

[Ronnie]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Richard S</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you have to go there, might consider the upgrade. Upgraded calipers are only $41 apiece for reman, but you need new [larger] rotors. </div></div>

Richard, if you know everything needed to do the upgrade, would you please write a short writeup or tutorial on how to properly upgrade the brakes? I have been on this forum about 8 months now and still do not know exactly what calipers, rotors, fittings and other parts are needed to do the job. I have read many bits and pieces here in the forum about doing upgrades to the brakes but they seem to fizzle out before anyone completes the job. It sure would be nice to read how to do the job right from start to finish and know what parts are needed.

Thanks in advance.

Ron

[Guest MauiWowee]

Since I just did the upgrade two weeks ago, I'll try to walk you through it, on a fresh post so we don't hijack this one.

[Guest EDBSO]

For a huge improvement at a low low cost of only $55.00 I highly recommend

http://kvrperformance.com/shop/showcase.php

"KVR Performance delivers the superior stopping power of carbon fibre pads at prices affordable for everyday use. You'll get superior performance from our semi metallic carbon fibre pads; their metalurgical formulation exceeds all O.E.M. standards, creating a quiet running brake pad that performs with minimal increase in dusting. The perfect choice for Street Performance vehicles that may see occassional on-track action. Designed to compliment our O.E. Replacement Discs - works great with plain, drilled or gas slotted rotors."

I have used and love them and they are gentle on the rotors.

[Richard S]

You can search the archives for an thread earlier this year in which I posted pictures, sources, prices, and step by step instructions. Greg's upgrade, which has been used by several people, is laid out very nicely by Maui, but involves some drilling. The upgrade originally suggested by F-14 that I used, avoids that, being a pure bolt-up. I prefer the Z-28 caliper to the Aurora. We will probably get a good comparison report of the the two upgrades because I think F-14 has done the Ross upgrade on one of his cars, and is planning to try the Z-28 on another. He can tell us if he notices any real difference.