1939 Buick Limited Model 90

[JCK55buick]

I've always dreamed of owning a pre-war Limited. Found one for sale and now I wonder what I should be looking for. This car was restored some time ago. I understand it has a 12 volt bypass for easier starts. Any problems with 39s that I should know about, weak spots or areas especially prone to rust? I appreciate any pointers you 39 specialists out there can give me.

[Guest imported_Thriller]

The rather neat looking, but small, grills meant they were somewhat prone to overheating as there was insufficient air flow through the grill. So, you may want to look for the type of engine damage associated with heat.

As for anything else, I can't really comment as I don't know enough.

Good luck with your decision.

[Buicksplus]

I owned a 39 Limited years ago and enjoyed it thoroughly. When I owned it, its styling was not a favorite amongst Buick collectors, but the Blackhawk has changed some of that perception. I always thought those flush grills were very unique and attractive.

Mine did run a little hot but it was very managable. I drove the car from Albuquerque to Flint and back in 1988 in 100 degree weather. She boiled off a little water when turned off, but otherwise was fine. I put an RV fan on it later and that cooled it off considerably.

Anything unique to the 90 series (sheet metal, interior moldings, stainless trim, rear end) is just about impossible to find, there were just a few hundred of these cars built and few are left. Make sure everything you want is on the car, because your chances of finding replacements are nil -- unless it involves parts common to other 39 Buick series.

Enjoy!

Bill

[JCK55buick]

Thank you both for your input! The seller did mention, and I can't find this in my research, that there were two different grills in 39, one called a parade grill that allowed more air flow?? He claims this car has the parade grill and he has not had an overheating problem. Of course, after I think this is the one, I see a '40 Limited being auction in Missouri in a couple of weeks. I know there are not too many 90 series out there, but you do see them come up for sale from time to time. Thanks again!

[Guest DaveCorbin]

Dear Jeff:

There was an engineering "fix" issued that changed the grille. The early type has 41 vertical bars, the later type has 35, so there's a little more airflow thru the grille. There are about a dozen fixes for overheating in the 1939 thru 1942 Buick parts and Service Bulletins. Generally speaking, they don't like parades on the 4th of July! My 1939 Roadmaster that I've owned since 1978 has them all and a couple I dreamed up in addition.

Regards, Dave Corbin

[Dynaflash8]

Buick put out a baffle for overtop of the radiator, a shroud to enclose the fan area (a man in Ft. Smith, Ark makes reproductions), changed the grill (I count 38 teeth in the newer version), Stant put out a 3 lb pressure cap if you can find one, you can ad an electric fan and I on one of mine, but I don't think it does much (really clean engine and radiator helps the most), I new a man in CA who figured out how to put a coolant recovery system on his Roadmaster, make sure the timing is not advanced, and that's all I can think of right now.  Now if you fix all of that you have to start worrying about vapor lock if you have to use Ethanol.

[Barney Eaton]

There is also a lower sheet metal part so air cannot go out under the car.  In addition there is a gap (maybe there was originally some sheet metal there) at the bottom of the radiator... I put a section of large pipe insulation in there to cut off that escape route.

Also there are lower sheet metal panels on both sides of the engine but you seldom see a '39 with them.

I have thought of wrapping the exhaust pipe in the engine compartment to keep that heat from escaping there.   I recently saw a '38 that the owner had made a stainless shield that fit under the carb. his idea was to keep the exhaust heat away from the car. not sure there is any benefit when running but it might reduce the fuel percolation when parked.

[BuickBob49]

I've owned Dave Corbin's 1939 Roadmaster for a few years. It is a really fine automobile!  The car has a very nice shroud around the top half of the fan for improved cooling.  It also has the sheet metal panel on the lower left side of the engine, but is missing the one under the starter on the right side.  Nevertheless, the car still ran warm.

 

As fate would have it, the water pump had a catastrophic failure last fall and threw the fan into the radiator.  My mechanic and I chose to rebuild the pump with a sealed bearing and install a higher capacity radiator (four rows of tubes instead of three). We also reinstalled the fan shroud.

 

Once warmed up, the car now runs just below midpoint on the temp gauge instead of between midpoint and high.

 

[Dynaflash8]

16 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:

There is also a lower sheet metal part so air cannot go out under the car.  In addition there is a gap (maybe there was originally some sheet metal there) at the bottom of the radiator... I put a section of large pipe insulation in there to cut off that escape route.

BuickBob49, that sounds like you're talking about the same part to me.

[Dynaflash8]

I just scanned this sheet into my computer yesterday, in order to send it to a friend.  And then the subject came up here....kind of amazing.  Anyway, this was the way it came from the factory.  Later in the year they changed the grill to have less bars, which are slightly slanted, to bring in more air.  They also invented a radiator shroud for around the fan, and a baffle which went on top of the radiator to keep air from going over the top of the radiator.  A man in Arkansas is reproducing those two parts now.  I found two of the baffles NOS at a Buick dealership back in the 1970s.  As for the shield under the carburetor, that might help vapor lock a little that we're getting from ethanol gas.  I know that Pontiac used such a shield under the carb in 1940, because I restored a '40 Pontiac about 30 years ago.  The biggest bottleneck I've found that causes vapor lock with this gas is at the thermostat housing, where the fuel line runs between the cylinder head and the the housing.  You stop for some reason, and leave the car for about 15-20 minutes, and when you restart, it goes right off and runs about 25 feet, because it has boiled out the alcohol gas in that portion of the fuel line.  They will also just run out of gas driving down the road a 50 mph and you have to have a switched electric fuel pump to overcome it.  None of this ever happened with real gas back when I could get it.

Edited May 2, 2017 by Dynaflash8 (see edit history)

[Itstime4me2fly]

in reference to shields and pans......not sure if I need another thread?

I have a nos  buick splash pan and or shield of some sort I cant identify, looks like par t#1313968

I could post pic later.

thanks

 

[Dynaflash8]

Without a Group #, it'll be hard to find.  Part # 131 could be as late as 1940 or 1941.  Most 1939 numbers seemed to start with 130, but some did start with 131

[Itstime4me2fly]

Correction on my part.  It looks to be 1.312 group number?

here is a couple pictures.

thanks

bill

Edited May 3, 2017 by Itstime4me2fly (see edit history)

[Terry Stock]

Would 1312 be a group number?

 

Buick Book of parts 1939 page 19

Group No 1.312 Pan, Radiator

Part No 1309394

Per car 1

Models and description 40-60

Part No 1310818

Per car 1

Models and description 80-90

plus 11 bolts / nuts per car

 

Group No 1.312  Extension, Radiator, lower pan

Part No 1310819

Per car 1

Models and description 80-90

 

Make of that what you will.

[Terry Stock]

6 hours ago, Itstime4me2fly said:

looks like par t#1313968

 

McLaughlin Buick Book of Parts 1938-1942.

Page 50

1.312 Pan, Radiator

1940/46-47, lower, per car 1, Part No 1313968

 

Part No doesn't seem to apply to other years.  Different numbers for models 44-45 & 48-49.

 

Model numbers vary compared with USA.   Model 46 is Convertible Coupe Full rear sear 4 pass with larger bore & stroke; model 47 is Sedan with trunk - 6 pass, the larger bore & stroke.

[Itstime4me2fly]

Amazing. I looked for a few hours and found nothing. 

I thank you. I'm always impressed every time I visit this site.

 

Thank you again.

bill

 

[Dynaflash8]

I think it looks more like Grp #1.263 because of the bumper bar holes.  Looks a lot like a 1940 Chevy front pan. I was guessing 1940 Buick too, based on the number. I'll go look at my 1947 Master Parts Book later this morning and come back to you.  So, on a '40 it may well be 1.312 like the man says.

 

[Dynaflash8]

12 hours ago, Itstime4me2fly said:

Correction on my part.  It looks to be 1.312 group number?

here is a couple pictures.

thanks

bill

 

[Dynaflash8]

Okay, I found it in a 1941 Buick Master Parts Book.  It is Group #1.312, possibly Part number 1313968.  That would fit a 1940 Buick Series 60 and 70.

 

HOWEVER, it could also be part #13113967 which would fit a 1940 Buick Series 40 and 50

 

OR WORSE YET: It could also be part #1314018, which would fit a 1940 Buick Series 80-90

 

Therefore, the only way you'll ever know is to fit it to a car or measure it.  It is, I think, an external showing, body colored part of the front nose of the car.

 

Hope this helps, even if only a little.

[Itstime4me2fly]

Thank you. More info. I will make notes and attach to part.

I received this part in some 39 parts I purchased. You have no ideal how many ways I turned and flipped this part and tried to find the spot it would fit my car.

 

hopefully a member from site could use it.

thanks again.

bill

 

[Dynaflash8]

The bad part is it fits three different pairs of models, and they probably all look the same, just a different dimension.  Good luck finding a needy Buick guy.  The most important thing a person should have for his old car is a parts book and in the case of Buick, the Chassis Parts Book is more useful than the Body Parts Book, because the chassis part fit a wider number of  years as a rule and stay in the books for  years because they were available longer, but body parts weren't held as long by the manufacturers.  Fenders, noses, stuff like that is in the Chassis Parts Book.  Stuff Fisher would have made, and parts attaching to those major parts may be in either book.  You need a body book closer to the year of your car.  Chassis books, for example, for a 1939 will likely show in a Chassis Parts Book as late as 1953 or higher.

[Itstime4me2fly]

I appreciate your help. I'm learning something new everyday. With less than a year under my belt with the 39 Buick, I have a long way to go. 

I have the master chassis and body parts book 1928-1954, effective date January 1955.

Should I buy older books more period correct? I don't mind expanding my library, I just don't want to duplicate. I already need a book shelf.

thanks again.

bill

 

[Dynaflash8]

The 1954 book is a good one, because it shows you interchange all through the straight 8 era.  However, if you can find a 1941 book, you will be sure to have any parts that were out of stock or discontinued by 1954.  The early books have many parts in the United Motors Section, i.e. starters, generators.....Makes it harder to find what you're looking for sometimes.  By 1954 that had all been combined. 

 

[Itstime4me2fly]

Thanks