Guest Thundercleise Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 As the title says I have been unable to get my Reatta to idle properly. I cannot seem to get it to drop below 1200 rpms without the transmission engaged, 1000 rpms with the transmission engaged. I recently replace the TPS and everything seemed well up until now. I thought it might be the IAC so I removed it and cleaned the chamber. When I reinstalled it and started the car I got the same thing at first. A high idle, then it seemed to try and adjust (I was in the diagnostic mode and watched the counter for the steps and it moved around) and the engined started idleing rough and then it just went back to being to fast. I also removed the battery for a minute or so but that didn't help either. The car is a 90 with about 136,000 miles. I'm really at a loss now and fear another couple hundred in repairs such as a computer or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Vega Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Sounds like a vaccuum leak to me. Listen for a hissing sound under the hood. Spray some carb cleaner around the throttle body and listen to the engine. Any fluctuation would indicate the cleaner is being sucked in and thus you have a leak. There is also a vaccuum line that goes into the passenger compartment for the heating system. Make sure that is intact. Some of the hoses and hard plastic connectors are getting old and brittle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Thundercleise Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Thanks, I did find that a vacuum hose was disconnected, so I reconnected it. It helped somewhat but it's still idleing fast. Guess I need to check all the lines. Are there any in a wierd place or are they mostly on the top of the motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Don't forget to check the PCV valve hose. It is hidden on the intake behind the alternator. You can't hardly see it without removing the plastic fuel rail/injector cover and looking straight down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Vega Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 mostly on top near the throttle plate. You may want to check the PCV valve connector too. That one is a little tricky to find. Standing at the passenger side fender facing the engine it is behind the idler pulley. It is plugged into the intake manifold. That grommet is notorious for drying out and turning rock hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Vega Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 LOL. TDMan wins the race.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest neroco2 Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 Also check the water temp sender that tells the computer to increase the idle due to a hot engine. These can fail and then lie to the computer. The computer in turn raises the idle and enriches the mixture to help cool the engine. This is not the temp sender that tells you via the IP the water temp.neroco288 and 89 Reatta's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Thundercleise Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 I checked my vacuum lines this weekend and found no leaks. I also used a vacuum meter and I'm getting 21 inches at the manifold. Now this is an older guage and it reads normal, so would this be enough vacuum? Also, I have been unable to get into the diagnostics mode because the IPC is acting up. Would this cause problems for me? I like the water temperatur sensor idea as the the car idles too fast only when the engine is at operating temperature. Where would this sensor be located? Thanks all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 Do you think your TPS has gone bad? You stated that you recently replaced it and everything was fine, and now it's acting up again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Thundercleise Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 When the old TPS failed it caused the engine light to come on. It also generated a code. This situation is different than before. Would low coolant cause an increase in engine rpm's? I noticed my resovior is a little below the fill mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadster90 Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 I had the very same symptoms....high idle, coded, replaced TPS, OK for a short, and then high idle again (when hot). While messing around I happened to move the wiring to the TPS, and it idled correctly.....Had to write Jim Finn and acquire the section (about 10 inches I guess) of wiring with the plugs for the TPS and IAC and solder them in. This is just another suggestion....you might want to move your wiring around or check the electrics. Temp sensor also good suggestion...do you have a FSM? Good Luck,Nic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Thundercleise Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 It just occured to me that the connector for the tps is broken, maybe that's the case. It's still wierd that I don't get some kind of code anyway. I'm going to see if moving it around helps. Also, what is an FSM? I'll probably be contacting Jim Finn with a shopping list of stuff before too long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 FSM= Factory Service Manual Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Thundercleise Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 I do have the manual and it helps a lot. But I'm still having trouble figuring this out. That and I don't have a lot of time or money right now. I think it may be in the connector because now it seems worse than before, and it's the only thing I changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadster90 Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 If your gang plug connector is deficient it is definitely A problem - if not maybe the whole problem..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sahein Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php?ub...true#Post267623 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Thundercleise Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 It's been a while but I finally traced the problem to a sticking Idle Air Control valve. The car started to stall ocasionally and that's when I figured out what was going on. It is wierd because I replaced it less than 2 years ago but I might have gotten a bum part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 Try cleaning it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Thundercleise Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 Thanks, but I already tried that and that's when it started acting up. I replaced it today and all is good. Except for my transmission pan gasket fiasco. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 I would like to hear about the pan gasket. I'm having problems in that department. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Thundercleise Posted October 13, 2007 Share Posted October 13, 2007 On the pan gasket, I had to use a silicone sealant along with a new gasket. The transmission shop I had it rebuilt at used a really cheap paper gasket and probably over-tightened the bolts. It leaked once and I had them fix it, the second time I took matters into my own hands. I went to my local parts store and bought a gasket/filter kit because I didn't have a part number for the gasket only. And what I did was clean off the mating surfaces of the pan and tranny. Then set a bead of silicon sealant around the whole pan, laid the gasket on, then another bead on top of the gasket. Then install the pan making sure to tighten only to 10 foot pounds of torque (check you manual as the may be different for each year). So far no leaks and going on over a week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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