buick man

Well consider this. My car has sat since I believe 1970 in a garage and not outside. I sprayed Blaster on all the nuts and hangers a couple of days before. Then applied heat just before removing nuts. All I needed to do was loosen all of the clamps aft of the header so the pipe would slide back after removing the just one bolt on the front rubber hanger in front of the muffler intake so the pipe will drop down just enough to get the exhaust pipe flange to separate from the header flange.. It took maybe 15 minutes to loosen everything up so it is not that bad.

So is the model 76A truly the rarest model of the Roadmasters considering an entire years production run? The model 75's production run was barely 6-months long and almost tops that of the model 76A.

Scab the corporate oligarchs - Who needs pay-swell anyway. Use your local bank interchange funds transfer services and wire the money directly into your account for much less money than using a pay-swell account. You can also use a U.S. Postal Money Order. With pay-swell or any other private services company your ability to recover is only really through local court claim remedies. On the other hand, using a bank wire transfer or the U.S. Postal Service you automatically have the U.S. Justice Department and the U.S. Postal Inspector's Service on your side if anything goes south. You don't have that assurance and easy of recovery with pay-swell or the other husker outfits out there.

Just an after thought, perhaps we could do a group buy or one of us buy it and the rest of us donate to the fund we can get the templates and the instructions. When have or will we see another one????

Hey Guys. On ebay there is for sale an original Buick Radio Kit complete with speaker cover, wiring, instructions, switch and templates for both the models 40/60 and 50/70 series. However no speaker. It clearly indicates that the radio switch is to be mounted on the lower left area of the dash as per the template markup for installation. Therefore, it appears this mystery has been solved. Here is an original Buick Kit for this radio switch type and it's intended location. With that said it appears the Buick radio dual radio switch never was installed at the factory but Buick to fill or round out it's options card offered this kit and was to be a dealer installed item only therefore all the different configurations as we have seen. Dealers probably used old stock 1956 Delco units since no known photo existed in the brochures or elsewhere. Perhaps the kit did not get put out as is in the case of this kit until the production run began. So here it is: 1957 Buick NOS ACCESSORY REAR SEAT RADIO SPEAKER KIT - eBay (item 280621495711 end time Feb-05-11 12:51:30 PST) Perhaps someone here could buy it so we could all get a copy of the instructions and the templates and make it part of the AACA library for all to use in the future. Get on it!

Here's my summary advice for any future searchers: I had to loosen all the exhaust system suspension clamps from front to rear in order to have enough movement room to properly remove my 1957 buick starter. Then I removed the front of main muffler rubber hanger from the frame. All of this allows one to pull back the entire assembly and also lower the front of the muffler/header down onto the frame. The starter can now have enough forward movement to clear the bell housing to be completely removed. Without doing the aforementioned steps the starter cannot be removed. The starter can be loosened by removing the 2 main bolts but it will not have enough forward movement to clear the bell housing without first allowing the free movement of the left side exhaust system.

Thanks 61. However, the other day I removed the two nuts off of the exhaust manifold, then tried to gently pry back the header to the rear to get the flange off of the exhaust manifold bolts. Solid. It appears the entire exhaust setup aft of the header flange will at least need to have all the brackets loosened so movement is possible. If that does not work it appears I will have to support the port side muffler and disconnect it from the header feeding into the front of the muffler. Just did not want to do this what with the possibility of breaking bolts. However my method has always been to soak with Blaster for a day or so, then come in with my matte gas/propane torch and heat the rig up. This usually always allows for free movement on previously frozen parts. I will dive into this and report back as to what I need to do. Thanks

OK. Has anyone out there extracted a starter from a dual exhaust 1957 Buick before? If so, does one have to remove the exhaust header from the manifold before you can get this long snout of a starter out of the bell housing? If this is indeed what is necessary then in so doing it appears it will also be necessary to disconnect the header pipe from the inlet of the muffler so you can have enough flex room to bring the header back to the rear so it will clear the manifold bolts. But to do that I would also have to wire the muffler into a secure static position so it will not drop and cause strain on the components behind it. What a self-feeding chain-reaction pain maker! Anyways .... let me know if you have done it and can remember how as I do not want to have to remove all of this unless absolutely necessary. Thanks in advance

So our Buicks are barge-like-rockets with cup holders! Thanks - I loved this article. Aside form the authors attempt at Hemingway like discourse, this is an interesting read. If anyone has anymore out there scan them and then post em:D

Ok you guys. David here reporting from the Hotel California. It got up to 63 degrees today out on the veranda so everyone left their rooms and went out. Yesterday and today have been the only two days that we have seen sunshine out here since I believe Halloween. The doorman allowed me to get outside a bit so I could take these photos reminding me that I can go anytime I want but I can never leave. Jim. Thanks for the lead as I will see what they have. Here are my trunk skins set out as they would be in the trunk. I have included photos of the dimpled backing as well. The main center piece is not stitched on the ends but rather just folded over the back about an inch and glued onto the dry dimpled tar backing. As you can see I tried to clean this center piece this past summer and as was pointed out, by doing so the backing bled through. I found that I can get it out of the cloth face but I have to separate the fabric from the tar backing to do so. The other large piece just ahead of this center piece is the one that sets just behind the rear seat back and has a smaller piece hem stitched to it. It is this smaller attached piece that covers the step up in the trunk. The side pieces as shown to the right and left of the main center piece has the dimpled backing on these pieces as well, but should be noted the small fabric piece attached to this is hem stitched but has no tar backing- just fabric as it goes up and rolls over the wheel arches on either side. Jim I measured out my pieces and if you want I could get them out to you if you would need that. Let me know. ....Also please forgive me - and...I know it is off from Jim's original topic here but since we have everyone gathered on this post already, perhaps someone could chime in and answer my questions regarding the following as shown in the last few photos: Question 1) Where can I get some of this original battery cable sheathing? It is wrapped over my negative battery cable as a sheathing and I believe it is the original OEM battery cable as everything else on my car appears to be as well. You can see it still has the Buick engine blue/green paint sprayed onto it. Question 2) I bought this 1957-58 correct AC fuel pump. When I got it home, I noticed on the bottom of the fuel pump which would be correctly called the pulsator cover, I found remaining traces of Buick blue green engine paint on it. An original label is placed over that. Most of the paint on the pulsator cover is rubbed off but you can still see most of it around the perimeter edges. I could also see rubbed in remnants of the same on the body of the pump as well most prevalent near the bolt hole bosses. You can just make this out on the photos. So does this mean that the original AC fuel pumps where painted the same as the engine and not matte aluminum as we all see today? I ask this because I have a few old tech photos showing the engine and the pump looks the same as the engine block and valve covers (black n white photos) but you can tell it is not aluminum nor anodized as was the power steering hub or the water pump hub, or the front / rear of the generator. Question 3) Shown is a photo of my exhaust pipe stock flared end just before it goes into what would be the rear passenger's side final bumper resonator. I was removing my fuel tank and rear pipe sections on both sides and removed a clamp that no doubt has been there forever and what did I find but Buick green paint under it. As shown in the last photo. The rest of the pipe is rust colored as pipes go. So what is up with this. Could this be the original pipe and if it is this would mean the exhaust pipes were painted Buick engine blue/green from the factory. Any thoughts here. Sorry to sand back this post but what the heck. It will just give us more to talk about in one convenient spot !

Ok you guys. David here reporting from the Hotel California. It got up to 63 degrees today out on the veranda so everyone left their rooms and went out. Yesterday and today have been the only two days that we have seen sunshine out here since I believe Halloween. The doorman allowed me to get outside a bit so I could take these photos reminding me that I can go anytime I want but I can never leave. Jim. Thanks for the lead as I will see what they have. Here are my trunk skins set out as they would be in the trunk. I have included photos of the dimpled backing as well. The main center piece is not stitched on the ends but rather just folded over the back about an inch and glued onto the dry dimpled tar backing. As you can see I tried to clean this center piece this past summer and as was pointed out, by doing so the backing bled through. I found that I can get it out of the cloth face but I have to separate the fabric from the tar backing to do so. The other large piece just ahead of this center piece is the one that sets just behind the rear seat back and has a smaller piece hem stitched to it. It is this smaller attached piece that covers the step up in the trunk. The side pieces as shown to the right and left of the main center piece has the dimpled backing on these pieces as well, but should be noted the small fabric piece attached to this is hem stitched but has no tar backing- just fabric as it goes up and rolls over the wheel arches on either side. Jim I measured out my pieces and if you want I could get them out to you if you would need that. Let me know. ....Also please forgive me - and...I know it is off from Jim's original topic here but since we have everyone gathered on this post already, perhaps someone could chime in and answer my questions regarding the following as shown in the last few photos: Question 1) Where can I get some of this original battery cable sheathing? It is wrapped over my negative battery cable as a sheathing and I believe it is the original OEM battery cable as everything else on my car appears to be as well. You can see it still has the Buick engine blue/green paint sprayed onto it. Question 2) I bought this 1957-58 correct AC fuel pump. When I got it home, I noticed on the bottom of the fuel pump which would be correctly called the pulsator cover, I found remaining traces of Buick blue green engine paint on it. An original label is placed over that. Most of the paint on the pulsator cover is rubbed off but you can still see most of it around the perimeter edges. I could also see rubbed in remnants of the same on the body of the pump as well most prevalent near the bolt hole bosses. You can just make this out on the photos. So does this mean that the original AC fuel pumps where painted the same as the engine and not matte aluminum as we all see today? I ask this because I have a few old tech photos showing the engine and the pump looks the same as the engine block and valve covers (black n white photos) but you can tell it is not aluminum nor anodized as was the power steering hub or the water pump hub, or the front / rear of the generator. Question 3) Shown is a photo of my exhaust pipe stock flared end just before it goes into what would be the rear passenger's side final bumper resonator. I was removing my fuel tank and rear pipe sections on both sides and removed a clamp that no doubt has been there forever and what did I find but Buick green paint under it. As shown in the last photo. The rest of the pipe is rust colored as pipes go. So what is up with this. Could this be the original pipe and if it is this would mean the exhaust pipes were painted Buick engine blue/green from the factory. Any thoughts here. Sorry to sand back this post but what the heck. It will just give us more to talk about in one convenient spot! Edited Note: Somehow I managed to repeat myself as seen below and can't seem to delete it. Just double talk anyway.

When you say argent color are you guys referring to a silver matte wheel color such as at this link? - R & E Paint Supply. WA3024, Silver Argent Metallic (Wheel Color) and this silver matte finish is applied to the sides and back of each of the 100 aluminum grill teeth?

I removed my Roadmaster lining this past fall. It is a gray fabric material with thin blue colored lined threads placed in small square pattern throughout. This fabric is glued to what I believe is a dry oil/tar based dark brown/blackish insulating backing sheet material with small round mounds throughout it's surface. I will post a few photos tomorrow. Perhaps you can see how it lays out for your patterns Jim. This may help you. With that said, I am looking for this insulating backing material. I can get the correct fabric from the New Jersey boys at Buicks Inc. So if anyone knows where I can get this correct backing I am all ears.

Welcome Buick Girl! You have found a home. This is the place to come to for anything great or small. I have owned 3 - 1957 Buicks at one time or another. A 4-door hardtop special, a Caballero Century Stationwagon, and currently a Roadmaster Coupe. I have read a lot of posts where new owner's are concerned about old car steering, brakes, tires etc. With the 1957 Buick you already have good brakes and steering. If you decide to go to radials, that is ok as well. As you drive the car you will become accustomed to it's weight ratio and the brakes. You will soon find that braking is not an issue. Just remember that you can't tailgate with these heavy cars, so leave 10 feet for every 10 miles / hour and you will be just fine. When I owned my Caballero I was once driving at highway speed down a decline in the road an old oiled 2-lane highway road (1973) returning from a wedding with 2-people laying down in the back of the wagon, when suddenly I had the front right passenger tire blow out all at once with a bang! I was riding on bias tires and they were well used. Well just to let everyone know what to expect in a 1957 Buick under these conditions, I will say that the car held the road magnificently and did very little in jerking and adequately let me slowly steer to the shoulder of the road. That was a true test of this car's stability. I have had other back in the day, lighter & much newer cars have blow outs and they have always tended to give you an arm wrestle and jerk section when blow outs occur. Not so with the 1957 Buick! So this should instill some confidence in you when driving your new find. On a side note, I noticed on your first photo post of the interior dash, that your dash has a chrome knob located on the far left lower portion of the dash near and above the area were the emergency brake release handle is. Could I ask what that knob is used for in your car? Some of us have a on-going post trying to resolve this issue. Again ... welcome.

Time Machine Alert: Here is an unique and interesting analysis article of the 1957 Buick in 1957: Popular Mechanics - Google Books Good Original Photos! Note Article Starts around 100 by the link, then goes from there with some of it above on page 98 or so. There is also anengineer's analysis of the 57 Buick as an aside article, but then also continues and jumps to page 218 then jumps down further on from there. A lot of owner opinions on everything from glass to seats to gas mileage. I think it is a neat "Way Back Machine" article!

Thanks TG

Need a correct fuel bowl complete for my 1957 Roadmaster. Do you have?

Hey I am in Marin County. I have a Roadmaster. I do not have a master parts book (yet) but could you or someone tell me what outside chrome parts off of your century ARE compatible with a Super or a Roadmaster? I believe the list to be short. I think the front corner cone intakes are and I believe the rear exhaust corner bulbs are as well. Maybe someone could verify this for me. Don't think the side skirts just in front of the rear bulbs are compatible. I seem to recall they are too short for the Super or Roadmaster. The hood ornament would be as well? Let me know what you think.

Here's a couple sites to get you started in the right direction: Charging the lead-acid battery BATTERY CHARGERS & INVERTERS - American Marine Supply.com - Quality nautical equipment and accessories for the recreational and commercial boating community. http://www.thefind.com/electronics/info-multi-stage-battery-charger

You know I'm confused. I just read the Judging rules recently and left it feeling there is a lot of ambiguity pertaining to "preserved" and "original". Or what is referred to as reference works. I believe over the last 15-years or so a concentrated push has been made in perception that if a car is not a rolling rotisserie job then somehow it should be and why is it not completely restored? Starting about 20 years ago or so people thought you somehow just had to take an "old" car and completely restore it nut to bolt. I can remember people never mentioning about how neat this time capsule is or wow this car is completely original survivor. In fact the word "survivor" was never mentioned as I recall. But in recent days there are so few truly untouched original finds available that I think in the last few years a new conscientious is emerging toward the importance and uniqueness of an untouched original car and the true importance and value they represent. What can we do to ensure that a entirely new class of judging be put into form and action to create such a platform for cars like this and others which they now more than ever justly deserve?

It looks just like the center hub crest on a 1957 Buick. Polish it up using some lens polish, power buff it, and then wax it. I'd say it is worth about $ 75-125 U.S.

I thought this post was about how crappy china-mart chargers eat batteries and why. . . or so I thought.

All "trickle" chargers operate by keeping a constant rate wave pattern that will eventually compromise the internal plates. Even if they turn off and on the rate of charge and the type of charge wave is the same. They will always eventually overtake the linear discharge rate of the chemical/plates then cook upon the plate's substrate surfaces, the condensate material fractionating out of the acid electrolytes. This eventual changes causes depositing onto the plates thereby making the plates less efficient as time goes on. This is just basic electro/chemical physics. To improve upon this, a tender float charger takes and applies different types of charge waves dependent upon the plates current condition at any one moment. This maintenance charge is called a "float" charge wave. This enables the plates substrate to stay free of fractionating deposits upon their surfaces as detailed above. These are the exact deposits which kill wet cell batteries. Think of it this way, without this discriminate wave tailoring ability you basically have cookies in a oven in which you are baking. Your oven just does one thing. Bake. With this set up the surface of the cookies will eventually caramelize, dry out, then brown, and then eventually burn.

OH - Now there is a Shrine of Covenant to house the Holy Book of Options!? This only gets better. That settles it. Now we as humble followers have to reproduce this book. Now you have two viewers, so just PM me and I will give you my address as to where to send the other viewer! :cool:

NTX: No offense but I went to the link you provided and found no posting links regarding 1957 Buick after inputting that search criteria. Any suggestions? David