buick man

Very comprehensive post indeed regarding what most of us would consider a nice upgrade yet keeping everything in the driver's seat AOK and original. I will read this over and thanks. I have yet to get my Roadmaster out of hibernation so I will play with the wiper issue when things are running. The last 57 I had was in 1973 and never had an issue with the wipers. They just worked when I needed them to. Question: If one decides to go electric, then the smart thing to do would be to drop the pan and install the 59 oil pump without the vacuum pump so one would not have to worry about the oil/smoking problem as described earlier, if it decides to go out. Or does one only need to plug the vacuum line coming up from the pump? I ask this since I will be in the pan soon and have to decide what to do. Keep the original setup as is and rebuild, or install a 59 pump, or just rebuild the oil pump I have and then just plug the vacuum pump line and keep everything together? David

So Dan, that means when you press the windshield washer button inside you still get the washers to spray the windshield.? Also, the lever inside for the control of the wipers is connected to a wire/cable that runs to the central under hood vacuum unit, and when you go electric this original wire cable just connects to the new electrical unit?? Do I have this right? I thought that the original lever control inside is connected to a vacuum line? I have yet to take mine apart to see. David

Can you post some "Before" Pics just for Kicks! David

Where did you find one? This would be good to know. David

Mike is very correct. The same goes for the fan pulley hub. Just like the power steering belt hub. A clear metal plating. Thanks for the input regarding the air cleaner "A/C Heavy Duty .... " silk screening. I bet if we try here, we can find that Buick either changed the locations during the course of the production run or each plant placed them differently?? Mine was built at the South Gate Plant in Southern California. I know how many of my model were built but I do not know how many of my model were built at the South Gate Plant. My car was produced most likely mid to just later 1956. This might have some bearing on placements of things. David

Yeah there are a lot of ways to have fun here. I have been doing some research. I think you access it under the passengers fender in back of the wheel/tire. Inside I believe you have to undo 8 nuts to take the inside cover off just near the front passengers kick panel. The hoses go back and down into this area. Under the hood is just the fan blower attached to the flume. When I was 14 I loved taking things apart and spent hours on cars doing just that, but most of the time I never had to put it back together. Now at 56 I just want to do it in the most expeditious way possible, clean and correct then move on to other chores. The gospel now is to - Get It Done & Do It Right! The funny thing is (Unless I have completely missed this) I have all the "Official" service books, manuals and service bulletins and no where does it address the service/removal of the heater core. These books tell you everything else down to the stitch on a flies panties, but not this. Go figure. David

Is there anyone out there that has removed a 1957 heater core in the easiest way possible. Now I have what I believe to be a very comprehensive set of both 1957 Buick factory chassis manuals and vintage 1957 era shop manuals. No where does any of them address the specific removal of the heater core. Does one access it through and under the front passenger's fender or remove the dash pads inside or a combination of both? I could remove everything and then find out how to do it but I thought someone on the planet may have done this before and would have some time saving pointers. David __________________ Thanks in Advance! David Born Buick - " I like things just the way they were and drive-em just the way they are "

Is there anyone out there that has removed a 1957 heater core in the easiest way possible. Now I have what I believe to be a very comprehensive set of both 1957 Buick factory chassis manuals and vintage 1957 era shop manuals. No where does any of them address the specific removal of the heater core. Does one access it through and under the front passenger's fender or remove the dash pads inside or a combination of both? I could remove everything and then find out how to do it but I thought someone on the planet may have done this before and would have some time saving pointers. David __________________ Thanks in Advance! David Born Buick - " I like things just the way they were and drive-em just the way they are "

Here are some photos of how I found my Buick when I bought it. It had been sitting since 1970. Hope this helps. P.S. This might be of interest to some of you so I will include the following: Please notice on the first photo, take note of the plug wires with the boots on them. They were brand new when put on and then just sat with the car. When cleaned up the entire wire set including distributor cap looked as they should soft, shiny and new. Same went for the heater hoses. If you look close you will notice the air cleaner has the factory original "A/C Heavy Duty ..." instructions on the air cleaner. I found upon gently cleaning that this is not a "Decal" pasted onto the air cleaner as many have on their "Restored" cars, but was rather put on by a silk screen type method and is integrated into the original black paint. Also it is located on the driver's side of the air cleaner and not the passenger's side. The tag on the air cleaner horn is a service tag from 1970. When you open up the driver's door there is a service tag from the buick service department with the same date on that as well, July 1970. Also note the power steering pump. The belt drive is not painted black like you see at shows. If this is any reference painting them black is incorrect. It is cadium plated with clear metal silver from factory. The brackets are painted Buick Green. The Moraine Power Brake Assist is cadimium plated metal silver. The brake resevoir was painted black as original. The front fan hub is cadmium clear metal silver the same as the power steering belt drive. Just a few little details to note for reference. The ribbed upper radiator hose is incorrect for O.E.M. The heater hoses came with red strpes or blue strips for that era to be correct. Notice radiator top. This is the correct radiator for a Non-Air Condiitoned Buick on all model lines for 1957. If it is ripped and square like , then it's for an Air Conditioned optioned car. Take note however, as some 1959 & 60 non air conditioned cars had ribbed square like radiator tops as well, and could be mounted right in place of the original "round top" 1957 radiator. How do I know this? Because in 1973 I swapped a 1960 non air conditioned Buick Lesabre radiator into my 1957 Buick Century Cabellero Station Wagon and away I went! It was plug n play before that term was invented. The mileage on the car reads 60,040. The last service was in July 1970 and the mileage on the service tag reads 59,400. The battery was toast and was missing the hold-down ring. Other than that the car is complete and 100% original. This car is a Buick Roadmaster 2-Door Coupe Model 76A meaning it does not have the 3-piece rear window like the Model 76R, but has the stainless bars running down the trunk like all the Roadmasters but not on the roof line like the Model 75R. 2-door Coupe David

"..... and Controlled by Buick." What does that mean exactly? You somehow keep the interior mounted slide control unit and install an electrical diode siide switch while using the original handle or do you negate that and install some underdash switch setup? Just guessing here. But not to help in hyjacking my own post, and getting back to the heart of the matter, I am still interested in finding a source for my original engine mounted rebuild unit. It was suggested by someone, that some nordic dude in sweden would be the only person on planet earth that rebuilds these vacuum units. I contacted this nordsman and he told me that he only works Cadillacs and does not work on Buick vacuum pumps. So my search continues. . . David

After reading all these replies I still have a question. I take it all of you guys are running off of engine vacuum with no assist? What I mean to say is I have a 1957 Buick and it has a vacuum assist pump attached to the engine oil pump inside of the pan. A line goes through the block and up to the vacuum wiper motor mounted onto the firewall. Does anyone of you have a 57 and if so, would not this oil pump mounted vacuum pump need to be working well before one would send out the firewall mounted wiper motor to be overhauled? I have a post out on this topic already, so I won't beat it to death, but if anyone knows where I can get mine rebuild, it would be cherished. Then I will send my fire wall mounted wiper motor out to be rebuilt! Thanks in advance. David

Here is what I did. I took the water manifold and the water pump off. I left the timing chain cover on for the moment. I then decgeased the water manifold and then the water pump. Then I soaked them both in a deep bath of phosphoric acid solution to remove rust and scale. I did this repeatedly. Note: If you want to keep the metal part from etching white from the crystallization of the converted phosphoric acid crystals, then just wipe the part dry quickly with a clean cotton cloth/rag and rub. It will turn a deep charcoal tan color and not white out and blotch on you. The water passages on the nail head have one going into the front top of each bank where the water manifold bolts to. Behind the timing chain cover if you were to remove it are two inlet/outlets for the block. I left the timing chain cover on but one could take it off and expose these block ports but you would have to rig up a inlet adapter to fit over these holes to do what I did. I then temporally reinstalled the cleaned water pump and water manifold without the thermostat and just bolted on the cleaned goose neck thermostat housing. I had previously removed my radiator so it was not in the picture. I used just a paper gasket for these mountings and leakage was of no real concern. I then filled a 5 gallon bucket with phosphoric acid solution. You can use any brand that is out there for this as long as it is just that, a phosphoric acid solution for rust conversion and removal. I then got a cheap sealed bearing pump. I used a boat bilge pump I had laying around. Before I used the phosphoric acid rust remover, I first flushed the entire block out with hot clean water from my water heater as best I could going both with the regular flow via the bottom inlet of the water pump, and then reversing the flow using by going into the water manifold via the goose neck. I also at this time removed all the brass engine water drain cocks from the block. Removed not just opened. I reinstalled them for the acid wash treatment detailed below. After repeated flushings, I then hooked the bildge pump ( high volume/low pressure pump) to my phosphoric acid solution 5-gallon bucket. I had the return hose coming back to this bucket so I could keep a continuous flow going and then turned on the pump. I let it run flushing the acid solution thru the entire cooling flow circuit ie heads and block for an hour. Then I reversed the flow and repeated. Then I would reverse the flow and repeat. I continued this for about 3 hours. I had installed a filter canister on the return hose back into my bucket so I had to stop often and clean it out. Then I proceeded and continued on. The result was a rust and crap free block and heads. I then removed the water manifold and water pump and reinstalled new brass engine block pep cocks. I have yet to install the new water pump but the water manifold after the acid wash looks like new inside. I then removed the timing chain cover and cleaned, degreased and acid washed this as well. I will be installing a new timing chain and gear set along with a new modern type crankshaft oil seal. When all is said and done I hope to have a clean cool running engine. I have had the radiator cleaned at a shop but they reported that although the flow was adequate there had been repairs to leaks made in the past and that a new core should be sourced if I want to drive it out of town on a long trip and to run a 7 lb cap instead customary 15 lb radiator cap to keep the pressue down. I have found that to get it recored properly and cosmetically correct for show, it will run around $ 800 dollars or so. Just thought I would share what I did. I will post pictures of the steps to what I did when I can get around to that. David I found keeping everything bolted on allowed me to just use adapter hoses to manage the flow.

PWhy am I hearing Ford Green repeated on these posts over and over again? It is not the correct color, never will be and unless you live on Planet Ford, there is no reason to be spraying it on a Buick! You can get the correct Buick Green depending on your year ( the late forties to 56 had a certain lighter Buick Green and the 1957 to 1965 had the latter darker Buick Green then from then on they went to Red) from various sources here on the net, so why go Hackymotto Walmart on your ride, after you have just spent all this time to prep the surface to paint it? Just my opinion of course. David P.S. Rochesters & some Strombergs had a goldish chromate finish, Carter AFB;s had the raw shiny aluminum look. If you are rebuilding your carb and want to be politically correct this appears to be the finish format to follow. If it is a AFB then a vibrational tumbler with the right media will make it look brand new again. I have been told that with the 2 bbl carbs the carbs were mounted onto the intake manifold and spot painted at the base to check corrosion. The AFB is all aluminum with a galvanic plate gasket between the carb and intake so no paint needed to be applied.

I have always felt that base coat / clear coat systems do not belong on 1950's cars. Hands down, pure and simple. Just does not look right. Makes em look like an over painted lady of the evening. The best way IMO is to go with single stage catalyzed acrylic urethane. You get the depth of color, the correct hue and look of the OEM acrylic lacquer to a large degree while you also get the better protection and flexibility that the acrylic enamel can just not come close to. If you spot paint an original 1950's GM it is best to know that it was acrylic lacquer that they used. You must then use acrylic lacquer. It is very forgiving and translucent so lots of coats need to be applied and then each one rubbed out. It is hard to beat the overall looks of the original depth of color and hue of acrylic lacquer but it does not stand up to the elements over time. Enamel is hard and brittle like lacquer but weathers better. Acrylic urethane is superior. If you strip to bare metal use a phosphate etching primer then apply an epoxy bare metal primer. Then use House of Color's KD-2000 bare metal high build primer. After block sanding down to 400, then use their primer sealer just before you paint the car. David

Yeah I am going to show this one. So anything I do will have to be well thought out and if conversions are made they will need to be covert. Too bad you are getting fingered with so much trouble with your engine vacuum pump. I have had 3 1957 Buicks at one time or another and never had this problem you are having. (Knock on a woody). My thoughts are to rebuild the oil pump and vacuum pump and reinstall. If that is not possible then I would install a 1959 oil pump and look for an electric external vacuum pump setup. I have not researched it yet, but surely there must be an electric vacuum pump setup out there that could assure adequate vacuum. Perhaps and adjustable valve that could help balance the needed vacuum to Buick operating specs for the wipers. Your input is appreciated and noted. David

A quick note about removing bolts and especially exhaust bolts/nuts etc. After soaking with penetrant as was previously noted, the next thing I always do is apply -HEAT! I always take my propane or benzene torch and apply heat. Always works and that's good. David

Hey, thanks guys for coming forward. I am at that point where I am going to be dropping the pan. Now the east coast Buick guys offer a service to rebuild the oil pump and the vacuum pump for around $ 290 or so. But now with your input, this has me wondering what to do. Are these vacuum pumps such pieces that it is not worth rebuilding them? If I go electric will the interior controls look the same? Oil Pump: So instead of plating off my OEM 1957 oil pump, perhaps as I have seen here, some are using the 1959 oil pump and describe it as a 'better' unit. Why is is better than the 57 unit other than not having the vacuum unit attached to the bottom of it? Electric Wipers: Regarding the electric conversion, could you elaborate a little more on this conversion? Where would I go to get everything I need. My main concern is I really want to keep the cockpit looking completely original and not like my high school hotrod with aftermarket switches, levers and gauges. Any help or input would be appreciated so thanks in advance. David

Just bolt a 1959/60 Oil filter base to your 57/58 then you can use any modern oil filter. You don't have to buy the one the guy makes on ebay. I think the inside diameter is just a tad smaller due to the adaptor center threading that is necessary. Using an OEM is the better way to go IMO. I find this presentation very interesting and well presented. However, I am still in the process of rebuilding my vacuum system completely. I need to find someone who rebuilds these oil pump mounted main vacuum pumps that are bolted to the engine oil pump for starters. Anyone know of a source. Let me and the rest of us know. Thanks David

I have some questions regarding 1957 Buicks. My first question is was the stock OEM water pump cast metal or aluminum? My second question is about the engine vacuum pump attached to the engine oil pump inside the pan. My Buick manual says that the engine vacuum pump when removed was constructed to be an integral unit and if and when it was discovered not to be working, it was intended to be simply replaced and not rebuilt. However, finding these new are right up there with finding the grail. So, can they be rebuilt and if so who rebuilds these pumps? I was told the only one rebuilding these by special method is some guy in Sweden?!? Any input and sources for rebuilds of both the oil pump and engine vacuum pump would be cherished. Thanks in advance. David

Thanks Dan.

Need to find a photo preferably an archival photo of the 1957 Buick Roadmaster Model 76C Interior code 730. This was the Black and Ivory Leather Interior theme. Need it to determine where an how the Black sections are located as well as the Ivory sections. Any and all help would be appreciated. David

Sounds like a great flush system Bob. The trick would be to let it just run and run until clean. I would filter the batch each time with a vacuum filter. I think I will do this after I air/water psi flush the system for initial cleaning and debunking. I would want to find an outfit that would take my spoiled water though first. However the question still remains, upon re-examining the heads, there is no separate water exit. Probably one if not the main reason for the heating problems with the nail head under prolonged torque situations. My conclusion is the water goes into the head and stays there until thermo gradient action moves the heat out conducting the heat via the water as a transfer mechanism instead of just flushing a constant current pass the internals as a means to carry away/transfer heat. This also would allow for a more stable heat condition for the valve guides as well. However, for getting the crap out of my heads this one-way-street design is a definite concern for flow flushing. Maybe someone can elaborate on this point to be sure. Looks to me just attempting force or flow water into either the top of the water manifold or through the bottom water pump inlet hose, either way the heads will fill with water then via internal pressure will resist direct flushing and flow route will be just through the pump and some of the block. If you examine the water pump design it perks water through slits into the block area via indirect tight meandering routes through the water pump itself and the block orifices. I bet when one attempts a block flush not much flow will go Through the heads! The cure would be to remove the aft head plugs. You would then get flow. Unfortunately head removal would be needed. Otherwise, I see where I may have to fabricate a dual inlet/outlet fitting and bolt it directly to the head orifice where the water manifold would normally bolt onto. Then apply high water psi and keep it going for a while so as to force the water to flow into and through the heads.

I am about to flush my 364 nail head cooling system. Before I do this I have removed the radiator, water pump and cooling/thermostat manifold to determine the extent of sludge/solidification etc since the car has not run since the late seventies or so. In so doing, I found that some dampness still existed in the inner heads cooling jacket though it has the usual film of rust butter from sitting. The rest of the cooling system is dry. The cheap aluminum replacement water pump and thermostat goose neck is garbage from electrolysis. I do not plan to pull the engine at this time unless completely necessary. I would prefer to set up a flush system that would adequately flush the system out. I want to use a flush gun with air/water combo to do the job but have some questions due to some observations I have made. Now when removing the water manifold I realized that there appears to be only one route for the cooing water to enter the heads from the water pump below. Via this water manifold. But upon further examination I can find no exit route for the heated water to take out of the heads unless I am missing something here. So if I flush the system how will I be able to get good water flushing flow through the heads without removing the water jacket head freeze plugs on the direct opposite rear of the heads against the firewall? Also, where can I buy a water and air controlled flush gun from? Did searches and came up with some very limited and expensive sources. Any knowledgeable comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

Has anyone out there, removed/replaced a heater core on a 1957 Buick/Roadmaster before? If so, I sure would like to hear from you regarding how you went about it and the best plan of attack. Need to replace mine. Thanks in advance. David

I did not own the car until April 5th. PaloSfV sent me a generic plate - gratus. That was great of him. However, I will be sending it back to him since the metal is too thin. I located an actual trunk piece and the metal O.E.M. metal is much thicker. BuickBonery: Mistake 1: You did cut it up before talking to me and confirming the sale and I did not know you had done so until I was gone. Mistake 2: Then you posted on this site pissing on my leg instead of talking to me. I had a lot going on. Thanks everyone for helping me out. I appreciate that. I have found what I need and am proceeding with the install. David