George Smolinski
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Posts posted by George Smolinski
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Have 2 cars I ran across. 1940 Ford two door sedan. Flathead, floorshift, restored years ago, #4 condition.
1946 Buick Special two door. Straight 8, All original. No rust, not even bubbles. #4 condition
Value of each please.
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Thanks to all that replied. I did not want to damage the guy’s car and I knew some Buick’s don’t open the hoods normally.
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This Buick has the spears that pull out. I looked under the dash and didn’t see any levers or knobs to pull for the hood. If I understand, with the hood fully closed, I pull one of the spears and then lift the hood from that side, right?
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What years did the Buick hoods open from either side and what was the process to open them? I ran across a ‘47 or ‘48 today and couldn’t figure out how to open the hood.
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7 hours ago, trimacar said:
The check you write to pay monthly bills is seen by someone when they get it, so the person at the receiving end could easily copy the numbers. Doesn't matter, they really can't do anything with them, but the point is that some people are so protective of information on one side, and giving it out freely on the other.....
I’m familiar with what happens to my checks & who can possibly see them when I send them off to pay my monthly bills. Your statement leads me to believe you missed my point, so I will restate it.
I DON’T write checks to strangers I’m buying cars from.
Getting back to the original post, the poster asked for opinions about buying a car from another state. I gave my opinion. Perhaps we should stick to his original post.
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3 hours ago, ted sweet said:
same info is on every check you write
I write checks to pay monthly bills. I DON’T write checks to strangers I’m buying cars from, so in my case, your statement doesn’t hold water.
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Thanks to those that replied. I believe I have it covered.
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I’m looking for someone who can inspect a car for me. PM me for details.
Thanks in advance.
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I’ve bought long distance. If the seller is willing, I send a cashier check or Postal money orders. As soon as he gets the payment, he overnights the signed title to me. I will wait 2 weeks after he gets the payment to allow time for the check or m.o. to clear. By then the transaction should be complete so a hauler can pick the car up & deliver it to me. I don’t do wire transfers because then there are bank account numbers involved - a high security risk IMO.
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CKS suffix code = 1972 350 cu. in. 255 hp, 4 bbl carb, 4 speed trans.
NOT a 302.
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7 hours ago, plymouthcranbrook said:
Although I do enjoy his show it really seems to be mostly one big commercial. The advent of DVR and fast forwarding has made the show much more fun for me.
You beat me to it. It would be much better without all the commercials.
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2 hours ago, mercer09 said:
go put it on ebay. no debating and at the end of the day, you will get what the mkt will bear.
that simple.
I think you are correct about ebay. It seems most cars that show up here with questions as to value ultimately get the ebay response. Probably the best & maybe should be the first response to such an inquiry. Let that market tell the potential seller what his car is worth.
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1 hour ago, Fox Collections said:
There's no fishing at all. There's no set price as I'm trying to determine the value as I'm not a car expert. The car was never stored in a wet or damp place and I'm not sure what gives you that impression. As I noted in my first post it was garage kept for 30 years, yet it has been sitting out side under a car cover for 3-4years. I was advised to join this forum as there are knowledgeable people that are willing to guide me in the right direction. So far everyone has been very welcoming until now.
George, I'm not sure where this is coming from since you were the first to make a offer over DM. That said, we are all untitled to our opinions and YES I am very much interested in selling the car, I just didn't want to be taken advantage of and was trying to educate myself. I will get some pictures of the what's under the hood over the next few weeks. If anyone is still interested by all means let me know.
I got the impression it was stored in a wet/damp location because of the interior surface rust. I've pulled enough cars out of garages, barns, and from under tarps to know the signs of wet or damp storage conditions.
Yes, I did make an offer. After reading Matt's opinion and advice, I believe it was a high offer, too high. As I stated, I think he is correct about your car. The reason I think this is a fishing expedition is because of your replies via PM. You asked what my offer would be & my reply was " Probably in the same range as the other offers you have. I saw 1 or 2 on the forum. For me, a lot depends on what the engine and transmission are. That's why I want the codes/numbers off the engine." Part of your reply to that was "That's some what vague. I've had offers from 12-20k as it sits now." Knowing you have a car that is a #5 condition car per "Old Cars Price Guide", why would you not have sold it already for the $20,000 you were offered, unless you are fishing, since it's worth about half that.
Nonetheless, I'm out, but I'll gladly decode the codes & numbers off the engine when you get them. It may help one of your buyers make a decision on the car.
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My info came from The Standard Catalog of American Cars 1946-1975.
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On 3/2/2019 at 12:58 PM, mercer09 said:
Also 57 produced the least.
Actually, the production figures are:
1955 6103
1956 7886
1957 6103
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4 hours ago, mercer09 said:
somebodys not paying attention here.......................
wishful thinking.
I agree. I think we're on a fishing expedition here. No set price. Post photos & description, get a few people interested so they hopefully try to out maneuver each other to buy the car. I think Matt is right. It's a $5000 car, MAYBE $8000 at best. Am I the only one seeing it's been stored in a damp or wet location? There's a reason all the surface rust is all over the interior hard surfaces & what appears to be mildew on the fabric. He said it was stored currently under the dreaded blue tarp (helps keep the moisture in). Looks like it was rode hard & put away wet many times. Some of you are debating the value of priming it versus leaving it as is. Either way, someone looking at it closely will see the bad & ugly.
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Fox,
You have a PM from me. Check your messages.
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The latch for the hood should be right under the front center lip of the hood. See diagram. Unless it was removed & a latch that opens from inside the car was added. If & when you get it open, PM me through here and give me the numbers & codes from the engine (See 2nd diagram). I can decode them for you.
From the looks of the interior surfaces, the car was/is stored in a damp or wet location. The 2 non-chrome brackets on the front bumper look like maybe it had a towbar attached, which makes me wonder if it was towed places & then raced.
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6 hours ago, billorn said:
Isnt that what he said?
Yes, somewhat. I was just clarifying that the engine in the description came from a passenger car with A/C and a Powerglide transmission. What he said is quoted below. BTW, the casting date code would tell what year for certain, but you probably already know that.
21 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:SA suffix code suggests 1962 or 1963 327/250
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SA suffix code = 327/250hp, powerglide, A/C from a passenger car.
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5 hours ago, Restorer32 said:
Once again this forum reduces everything to money. "Beware the Philistine who knows the price of everything but the value of nothing". If everyone had taken the advice offered here over the years there wouldn't be 50 cars at Hershey on a good year.
Couldn't agree more.
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I've heard a few negative stories about the hammer dropped quickly, one was a Hemi Cuda. If you search for Barrett Jackson lawsuit, you'll find lots of interesting reading. I think if Mr. Barnum were alive today, he'd be in on the action.
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Not mine. Thought someone here may be interested.
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/d/fergus-falls-rare-car-for-sale-1-of-1/6799138769.html
A VERY RARE 1920 Elgin Touring Car. $28,900/OBO. Almost 100 years old and still runs!!! Straight Six engine. The car was known as the car of the hour or built like a watch since the founders were out of the Elgin pocket watches. Through my research I believe this to be the ONLY 1920 Elgin still drivable and running with no other Elgin out there being a 1920 and none having the disc wheels like it has. Very rare Elgin cars come up for sale infrequently and only less than 10 running cars out there I could find. Beautiful car and comes with a California car cover. I have had it for three years and selling it because I don't have time to show it like it should be shown. I love this car. Appraised in 2015 for $28,000-$32,000.
Along with the car, a ton of very rare memorabilia including an EXTREMELY rare operators manual and parts manual, stock certificates, photos, Elgin pin, Elgin pocket watch medallions, stock owner update magazine, marketing material, and a 1920 Elgin pocket watch. This is probably one of the most collected items in one spot for an Elgin. See YouTube video of it here except it runs as the battery is in it....
https://youtu.be/hmv8C59WYyU
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Looking at Google images of 1960 Plymouth Savoy, I agree. That's what you have. Now that you know what it is, do the car a favor and put wheels and tires on it so you can put it inside somewhere out of the elements.
Anyone have “Old Cars Price Guide” handy?
in General Discussion
Posted
I kind of agree about the price guides, however the operative word is guide. They seem to be helpful sometimes when making an offer on a car that wouldn’t be at some of the auctions. I am able to show the condition descriptions to the seller. Then, using the price listed in the guide, I have a base to work from. It’s worked for me fairly well.
I think using Arizona auction results as in BJ, is more worthless/useless than anything else unless one is among the people with more money than brains that buy at these auctions.
Getting back to my topic, if you have an OCPG, can you post the values please?